After a two-year absence, the smell of syrup and roasted nuts once again drifts through Gaza city’s streets.
At a rebuilt shop called Abu Al Soud Sweets, trays of golden knafeh glisten under the light, a sight many Gazans thought they might never see again.
For decades, Abu Al Soud has been renowned as a symbol of Gaza’s culture and flavours. After it was burnt and destroyed by the Israeli army, its reopening is a small act of revival in a city still surrounded by rubble.
Gaza city suffered relentless bombardment by Israel during a two-month offensive in which inhabitants lived under famine conditions. A US-brokered ceasefire brought the ground campaign to a halt last month, although Israel has launched periodic air strikes since then.
Khaled Abu Ouda, who has worked at the sweet shop for more than 15 years, smiled as he spoke of its return. “We’ve finally returned to work at one of Gaza’s most famous confectionery shops, to offer people the sweets they’ve loved for generations,” he told The National.
He said reopening the shop was not just about selling desserts but restoring a cherished part of Gaza’s soul. “We’re trying to bring back the old days, to remind people of the beautiful past they lived here,” he said.
“The presentation of our sweets combines the authenticity of heritage with the refinement of today. People recognise that balance, it draws them in.”
Before and after
Among the wide array of treats – baklava, asawer, namoura, Arabic knafeh – it is the Nabulsi knafeh, the Palestinian variety with its stretchy cheese, orange crust and drizzle of syrup, that remains the crown jewel.
“It’s a recipe from Nablus, passed down through generations,” Mr Abu Ouda said proudly. “It’s more than just dessert. It’s a piece of Palestinian identity, a flavour that carries our history.”
Rebuilding the shop, however, was a huge challenge. Raw materials were scarce, prices had soared, and Gaza’s fragile economy made it difficult to relaunch a business, especially one dependent on imported ingredients.
“We tried to keep prices as close as possible to what they were before the war,” Mr Abu Ouda said. “People are struggling financially, and sweets should still bring joy, not more burden.”
Despite the difficulties, Mr Abu Ouda described the reopening as “a message of life and hope” for locals. “Gaza’s spirit, history, and people will never die. We can rise again, even after war, loss, and destruction,” he said.
Customers return
When Abu Al Soud reopened its doors, the response was overwhelming. People crowded around the shop, the aroma of syrup and melted cheese tempting them in.
Ragheb Abu Hwaishal, 27, was among the first customers to walk in.
“The reopening of Abu Al Soud gave me hope, that Gaza can live again,” he told The National. “I tried the knafeh on the first day, and the taste was exactly the same as before the war. We Gazans love knafeh, and Abu Al Soud’s is simply irresistible.”
For Mr Abu Hwaishal, the reopening was not just about food, but joy returning to Gaza’s streets. “People here love life. Despite everything, they celebrate whenever they can. Abu Al Soud’s reopening was a message that we can still find happiness.”
Mohammed Al Shobaki, 41, said the shop was “a landmark we're proud of”. He described its reopening as “the return of life to the spirit of the city”.
“Since the day I was born, Abu Al Soud has been here,” he said. “It’s not just a shop, it’s heritage and history.
“Abu Al Soud’s sweets are the best in the world. No matter where we travel, we never find anything like them, especially the knafeh. You can taste the Palestinian essence in it. It expresses who we are.”
In a city where bakeries and markets often stand beside ruins, the sight of fresh sweets behind glass counters is a quiet act of defiance.
“No matter how hard life gets,” Mr Abu Ouda said, “Gaza’s love for sweets never fades.”
