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A handful of Israeli soldiers rest on a sofa in Kfar Aza, behind a heavy machinegun pointed at the Gaza Strip, only a couple of kilometres away from what was once a peaceful farming community in southern Israel.
An extremely loud bang goes off nearby as yet another Israeli artillery round heads towards the devastated Palestinian enclave. Fighter jets roar and drones hover overhead.
More bangs follow at regular intervals as smoke rises above Gaza, where more than 10,500 people have been killed – including 4,324 children – in a month of heavy Israeli bombardment.
“This is war,” one soldier says with a laugh, speaking with what sounds like a Spanish accent.
Kfar Aza was home to about 750 people until October 7, when militants from Gaza launched deadly cross-border raids that left more than 1,400 dead, and took an estimated 240 hostages.
Kfar Aza is now an army base of sorts, filled with soldiers, guns and military vehicles.
The machinegun position overlooks the broken gate where the attackers from Gaza entered. It was this part of the kibbutz, nearest to Gaza, that was hit the hardest.
Burnt cars, overturned washing machines and abandoned motorcycles lie outside charred homes.
A soldier says it is not clear whether the motorcycles belonged to the residents or if they were used by the attackers.
In some houses, the shoe racks are still full – perhaps a sign of how little people took when they left, or that the occupants were no longer alive.
Israeli army Maj Doran Spielman said about 140 people were killed in Kfar Aza and about 100 are still missing.
It is not clear whether the missing are among the hostages being held by Hamas, the militant group that launched the October 7 attacks. Hamas has refused to release a full list of its captives.
Israel says its military campaign in Gaza has two main objectives: destroying the capabilities of Hamas and rescuing the hostages.
“We're working day and night to try to find every possible way to get them home,” Maj Spielman said.
“Part of it is being there on the ground and collecting intelligence, of which we've done a lot, including from the woman who was rescued.”
He was referring to the soldier Ori Megidish, whose rescue from Hamas captivity was announced on October 30.
“Now we are taking over terror compound by terror compound in Gaza, and we've uncovered a lot of intelligence, maps, information, data. We're also interrogating the fighters, one of whom gave himself up right from here. It's like piecing together a puzzle,” he told The National.
Almost none of Kfar Aza's residents have returned since the attack, although some have visited to collect belongings.
One of them is Maor Moravia, 37, who has lived in Kfar Aza for five years.
Although the sound of rockets and warning sirens is not new for a community only minutes from Gaza, Mr Moravia said he knew October 7 was different when he heard gunshots.
He showed footage on his phone from that day, when he and his family hid in their home's safe room for 20 hours.
“We locked all the doors, all the windows. It was very hot; we didn't turn on the air conditioning, we wanted to be silent. We turned off the lights, the TV.
“There was no food or water, we just sat there waiting for whatever was coming. They came to our street and started knocking on the windows to hear if anyone screams or if there are noises.”
Israeli forces arrived at 5pm but it was 2am before Mr Moravia's family was taken to safety.
“I come here every now and then,” he said. “We are hoping to come back here, we want to come back to rebuild our community. We need our government to finish what they are doing [in Gaza]. We can't let this happen again, we need to be secure.”
Mr Moravia said he used to feel sympathy for civilians in Gaza, which has been under a strict Israeli blockade since Hamas seized control of the territory in 2007, but not since watching videos that he said showed Gazans celebrating the October 7 attacks.
Maj Spielman expects other residents also want to return, but that most of them will not.
“Some of them, their houses are relatively intact; some of them have business here and they feel like they want to keep it going,” he said.
“But it's literally a handful of people who are here right now,” he added, saying that some families had come back to collect things including toothbrushes.
“Most families have not come back and I don't think most of them will come back while it is like this, it's too painful for them. They are already psychologically … trauma does not even begin to explain.”
Pharaoh's curse
British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.
Some of Darwish's last words
"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008
His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Opening Rugby Championship fixtures:Games can be watched on OSN Sports
Saturday: Australia v New Zealand, Sydney, 1pm (UAE)
Sunday: South Africa v Argentina, Port Elizabeth, 11pm (UAE)
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