More than 50 years ago, the renowned course architect Donald Harradine was commissioned to design Greece’s first 18-hole course in the posh Athens suburb of Glyfada. In the early 1970s, Harradine designed two more classy courses on Rhodes and on Corfu. But, somehow, golf never really took off in Greece in the same way as it did in Spain, Portugal – or the UAE. Grandiose plans for 25 new courses by 2005 failed, and hopes of a new dawn for the Glyfada greens faded even before the financial crisis of 2008. That once-grand course is in need of tender loving care. So is the Rodos Golf Club’s Afandou course, which it bravely bills as “the most complete golf club resort in the Mediterranean” – a claim that will surprise anyone who has played the greens of Portugal or Spain. The Corfu Golf Club’s Ropa Valley course, also designed by Harradine, has fared a bit better. It emerged last year from a three-year renovation programme with a new irrigation system and deeper, sandier bunkers.
All three of these veteran venues have a loyal local following, but if you’re looking for world-class golf in Greece, there are better options. On the northern mainland, two new courses are planned at the Porto Carras Golf and Country Club, and its Olive Grove course deserves to be better known. On Greece’s largest island, the Crete Golf Club has acquired an international following. At Costa Navarino, on the Ionian coast, the greens of The Dunes and The Bay have set a new benchmark for golf in Greece. And a Jack Nicklaus signature course is to be built as part of the new Chedi resort at Kilada Hills on the Argolic Gulf.
Meanwhile, Cyprus is maturing as a golfer’s paradise. Claiming the longest playing season in Europe, the island has four international-class courses, all of quite recent vintage, ranging from Donald Steel’s Minthis Hills – which turns 20 in 2014 – to the Elèa Golf Club, conceived by Sir Nick Faldo and opened in 2010. The latest and biggest development is at Secret Valley, where an 18-hole course opened in September. Work starts in the spring on a second, linked 18-hole course.
GREECE
Costa Navarino (www.costanavarino.com)
I challenge you to find a golf resort that matches Costa Navarino’s unique mix of luxury accommodation, fabulous location and superb greens. At Greece’s newest resort, two signature golf courses spread over 130 hectares of rolling hillsides, close to a kilometre-long stretch of virtually private beach. Designed by Bernhard Langer, The Dunes is a monster par-72 course, almost 6,200 metres long from its back tees. Opened in 2011, the nearby Bay Course, designed by Robert Trent Jones II, is a meandering all-level course set among canyons and olive groves, where the view of Navarino Bay can be literally dazzling. Both are managed by Troon Golf, and complemented by two luxury hotels, the Romanos and The Westin Resort.
Where is it?
On the west coast, about 270km south-west of Athens; driving time (mostly on motorways) three to four hours. Or fly in by private air charter to Kalamata International Airport, about 20km from the resort.
Staying there
Five nights at the five-star Westin Resort, Costa Navarino, including three rounds of golf, start at £475 (Dh2,854) per person from www.golfbreaks.com.
Off the course
All the land and watersports (including sailing packages) you could wish for are within the resort. Ancient Olympia, birthplace of the Games, is within day-trip distance. There are more ancient ruins at Pylos (practically at your doorstep) and unspoilt Messini. A few kilometres away are dramatic Venetian castles at Methoni and Koroni. The Westin has a Cocoon day centre for tots and a SandCastle activity hub for older kids.
The Olive Grove at Porto Carras (www.portocarras.com)
Laid out in 1974 as a nine-holer, the Olive Grove course was extended to 18 holes in 2002/03. It’s billed as a course for all levels – sloping fairways keep things interesting, but those in search of a challenge may find it a tad bland. When the course was extended, its balding turf was replaced with salt-resistant paspalum grass, solving the irrigation problems that challenge all Greek green-keepers in the summer. Some would say it makes for a springier, slightly slower surface, but that’s no bad thing compared to the unforgiving aridity before its facelift. Watch out for the three lakes that lurk at the back nine.
Where is it?
The Olive Grove is part of the Porto Carras Grand Resort, 110km (75 minutes) east of Thessaloniki’s Macedonia International Airport.
Staying there
Double rooms at the Porto Carras Meliton or the Porto Carras Sithonia, both part of the same resort and both five-star, start at €71 (Dh354).
Off the course
Long sandy beaches, plenty of watersports from the resort’s own marina, but not a lot in the way of sightseeing or off-site dining.
Crete Golf Club (www.crete-golf.com)
Crete has scenery that puts other islands in the shade, and the velvety greens laid out at the Crete Golf Club by Bob Hunt are in dramatic contrast with the rugged massif of Dikti, to the south. This is a par-70 mountain course, carved out of Cretan hillsides, and, with a slope index of 124 to 145, it can be wickedly swift. You’ll need at least a 9.3 handicap to play off the white, yellow or blue tees, but the gold fairway tees are open to players with a handicap of 37 to 54.
Where is it?
In the foothills, 24km (25 minutes) east of Heraklion International Airport.
Staying there
The five-star Grecotel Amirandes Hotel (www.amirandes.com) is on the coast about 15 minutes away. Rooms and suites have private pools, there’s a private beach, and the hotel has its own golf academy. Doubles start at €204 (Dh1,018).
Off the course
Water sports and tennis at Amirandes. In Heraklion, don’t miss the ruins of ancient Knossos and an outstanding archaeological museum.
CYPRUS
Aphrodite Hills (www.aphroditehills.com)
If you’re looking for challenging golf and excellent on-site accommodation in a lush setting, look no further. On the course, wide fairways carve their way through olive groves and water features. Some holes perch on the very edge of the canyon that cuts the course in two, with the nerve-wracking third offering perhaps the most thrilling shot. The course is integrated with the InterContinental Aphrodite Hills Resort Hotel, with its vast pool and upscale dining.
Where is it?
Overlooking the sea, just inland from the main coast highway, 20km west of Paphos and 107km east of Larnaca.
Staying there
The InterContinental Aphrodite Hills Resort offers seven-day packages including accommodation and four rounds of golf from approximately €1,300 (Dh6,486).
Off the course
The village-style resort offers tennis courts and a tennis academy. There’s a vast open-air pool and a luxury spa, plus nightlife, shopping, ancient tombs and temples and watersports at Paphos. There are regular shuttles to the hotel’s two beaches – one just a couple of minutes from the hotel, the other 15km away.
Eléa Estate Golf Club (www.eleaestate.com)
Sir Nick Faldo’s baby turns four this year and goes from strength to strength. This has to be one of the Med’s loveliest courses, with olive and carob groves, scented Mediterranean shrubs in the rough, and greens that lip right down to the sea. It will be even more attractive when its planned 40-room on-site hotel and spa is complete. In the meantime, enjoy the speedy, par 71 of this formidable course. The seaside location means wind can add to the challenge, especially in the afternoon.
Where is it?
About 15km inland from Paphos.
Staying there
Until the Eléa’s own boutique hotel is completed, there are plenty of fabulous places to stay in Paphos, just about 10 to 15 minutes away. The Almyra (see below) should satisfy.
Off the course
Seven bars and restaurants on-site (including the Halfway House, midway round the course) and all the attractions of Paphos at your doorstep.
Cyprus Golf Resorts (www.cyprusgolf.com and www.minthishills.com)
Cyprus Golf Resorts boasts the newest and oldest fairways in Cyprus. The management company introduced the game to the island 20 years ago at Minthis Hills, and the opening of the new Tony Jacklin-inspired Secret Valley course last September has taken golf here to new levels. At 5,989 metres, Secret Valley is eminently walkable (at least in cooler weather – regulars have already nicknamed one steeper section “Cardiac Hill”). The par-72 course is still maturing – the rough lives up to its name, greens are quick and, as yet, none too elastic, and narrow fairways make accuracy really essential. Watch out for bunkers, too – there are a lot of them, lurking in wait for the unwary. Overall, the new Secret Valley already stands up well to comparisons with Cyprus’s other top courses. When fully mature, it will be an even more desirable addition to the island’s golfing portfolio, and work is set to begin this spring on a second Secret Valley course. Meanwhile, the par-71, 5,843-metre Minthis Hills, laid out by Donald Steel in 1994 and recently given a facelift by Mackenzie & Ebert, is still challenging. The par-four 14th is especially tricky. The uphill 13th and 16th can be nerve-wracking, too, and there are plenty of sneaky little bunkers.
Where are they?
Secret Valley is about 15km east of Paphos. Minthis Hills is about 12km north of the resort. Larnaka International Airport is about 120km east.
Staying there
In Paphos, The Almyra (www.almyra.com) is a luxury cocoon with four restaurants, four pools and a portfolio of five-star frills. Doubles from around €130 (Dh650) per night; four-night and six-night golf packages including half-board and three or five rounds available.
Off the course
Loads of Roman, Hellenic and medieval fortresses nearby at Paphos, Kourion and Kolossi. Plenty of nightlife and shopping in Paphos and Limassol. Scuba diving and other watersports from Paphos, and in winter, you can get in a day’s skiing on the slopes of Troodos, about 40km away.
