Return of androgyny gives women more fashion options


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Was it coincidence or providence that made the spring/summer 2011 Milan menswear catwalks to act as a teaser for the latest womenswear trend? I did a double take watching all those clean-cut, boyish tailored suits in a palette of minimalist beige and monochrome. Since when did men-in-suits become interesting? Never has menswear looked quite so appealing - to women.

I certainly found myself sitting up and paying attention when I spied the slim-leg-trouser-cut-to-the-ankle-worn-with-flat-pointy-brogues-and-camel-blazer look championed by Christopher Bailey in the Burberry menswear show. I can think of several fashionable ladies already rocking this combo: the London art gallery owner/dealer, Sadie Coles, the wife of the fashion photographer Juergen Teller; Karl Lagerfeld's muse and Chanel deputy, Amanda Harlech; and the trailblazing model Agyness Deyn to name but three.

I'm talking, of course, about a trend that has been slowly creeping up on us ladies for some time: androgyny. It's a look that has been around since the turn of the 20th century, but it was most famously popularised by Yves Saint Laurent with his famous Le Smoking in 1966, then reinvented with YSL's his 'n' hers hippie smocks, flares and platforms. A comeback was long overdue. You couldn't choose a better launch pad than Milan, the city where Giorgio Armani - another designer who reinvented the trouser suit back in the 1980s - ripped the linings out of stiff jackets (leaving in the shoulderpads) and threw away the manual on tailoring.

Hedi Slimane, the former Dior Homme designer who convinced Karl Lagerfeld to shed several sizes in order to shoehorn his legs into drainpipes, was always threatening a womenswear line egged on by his legion of female fans, though he never actually did one. This week, the British menswear stylist Celia Ukwenya told me she believed the reason the androgynous look was gaining speed was because many new menswear brands such as the father-son team of Casely-Hayford and the online menswear site oki-ni.com had become the best-kept secrets of many women who work in fashion. She, like many in her industry, admires the utilitarian qualities of menswear, not to mention its cool rock-star vibe.

Androgyny was a theme in May at the womenswear spring 2011 pre-collections, particularly at Chanel. In Karl Lagerfeld's short movie featuring his latest resort line, Remember Now, we saw a version of Mick Jagger's iconic white Tommy Nutter 1971 wedding suit worn by the lean model Freja Beha Erichsen. Re-worked in a 21st century way, it looked fresher than ever. Have you heard of The Baseballs, the German rockabilly band who sport Brylcream-infused quiff hairdos and whose album, Strike, has dominated European charts and threatens world domination (Robbie Williams has apparently asked them to play at his wedding later this year)? I predict that, come September, when the ready-to-wear shows unveil what will be the definitive spring/summer womenswear trends, short, quiffed 1950s hairstyles will be a new trend (without sideburns of course), as will the Elvis Presley-style straight-leg jeans and casual check shirts currently being worn by The Baseballs' fans of both genders (including poster pin-ups for androgyny Katy Perry and Russell Brand).

We've still got the French haute couture season to throw up countless more trends but I remain convinced that when spring 2011 finally does arrive women will have one more option than usual: menswear. My birthday, falling as it does in the last week of June, means some, if not all of my presents are bought in the sales. To stop my husband returning from these with yet another unwanted gift I have drawn up a foolproof guide of what to buy. Here goes.

A maxi is the shape of the moment. Go for designers who have made this their signature, namely Diane Von Furstenberg, Issa or Matthew Williamson. Longish A-line skirts don't figure on the radar - yet. But they soon will. Some designers did them too early and many are now marked down, ironically before almost identical styles by Prada and Louis Vuitton for autumn/winter join them. Avoid anything in blush pink or flesh tone except shoes and bags. Ditch digi prints and florals. Pounce on anything with an African-print (think South Africa World Cup).

Jewellery always makes a sound sales investment, particularly ethnic pieces such as the clunking bangles encrusted with barnacle gemstones (reduced from Dhs1,300 to Dh975 at Marami, Dubai Mall). Finally, jeans: this is the first sales season I've ever spotted premium denim brands such as J Brand, Citizens of Humanity or True Religion with 30 per cent off the original price tag - at Net-a-Porter too! Hint hint.

EA Sports FC 26

Publisher: EA Sports

Consoles: PC, PlayStation 4/5, Xbox Series X/S

Rating: 3/5

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TICKETS

Tickets start at Dh100 for adults, while children can enter free on the opening day. For more information, visit www.mubadalawtc.com.

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AndhaDhun

Director: Sriram Raghavan

Producer: Matchbox Pictures, Viacom18

Cast: Ayushmann Khurrana, Tabu, Radhika Apte, Anil Dhawan

Rating: 3.5/5

Brief scoreline:

Wales 1

James 5'

Slovakia 0

Man of the Match: Dan James (Wales)

Who's who in Yemen conflict

Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government

Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council

Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south

Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory

Biog

Mr Kandhari is legally authorised to conduct marriages in the gurdwara

He has officiated weddings of Sikhs and people of different faiths from Malaysia, Sri Lanka, Russia, the US and Canada

Father of two sons, grandfather of six

Plays golf once a week

Enjoys trying new holiday destinations with his wife and family

Walks for an hour every morning

Completed a Bachelor of Commerce degree in Loyola College, Chennai, India

2019 is a milestone because he completes 50 years in business

 

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

The Dark Blue Winter Overcoat & Other Stories From the North
Edited and Introduced by Sjón and Ted Hodgkinson
Pushkin Press 

MATCH INFO

First Test at Barbados
West Indies won by 381 runs

Second Test at Antigua
West Indies won by 10 wickets

Third Test at St Lucia
February 9-13

 

Milestones on the road to union

1970

October 26: Bahrain withdraws from a proposal to create a federation of nine with the seven Trucial States and Qatar. 

December: Ahmed Al Suwaidi visits New York to discuss potential UN membership.

1971

March 1:  Alex Douglas Hume, Conservative foreign secretary confirms that Britain will leave the Gulf and “strongly supports” the creation of a Union of Arab Emirates.

July 12: Historic meeting at which Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid make a binding agreement to create what will become the UAE.

July 18: It is announced that the UAE will be formed from six emirates, with a proposed constitution signed. RAK is not yet part of the agreement.

August 6:  The fifth anniversary of Sheikh Zayed becoming Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with official celebrations deferred until later in the year.

August 15: Bahrain becomes independent.

September 3: Qatar becomes independent.

November 23-25: Meeting with Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid and senior British officials to fix December 2 as date of creation of the UAE.

November 29:  At 5.30pm Iranian forces seize the Greater and Lesser Tunbs by force.

November 30: Despite  a power sharing agreement, Tehran takes full control of Abu Musa. 

November 31: UK officials visit all six participating Emirates to formally end the Trucial States treaties

December 2: 11am, Dubai. New Supreme Council formally elects Sheikh Zayed as President. Treaty of Friendship signed with the UK. 11.30am. Flag raising ceremony at Union House and Al Manhal Palace in Abu Dhabi witnessed by Sheikh Khalifa, then Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi.

December 6: Arab League formally admits the UAE. The first British Ambassador presents his credentials to Sheikh Zayed.

December 9: UAE joins the United Nations.

The specs: 2019 Lincoln MKC

Price, base / as tested: Dh169,995 / Dh192,045

Engine: Turbocharged, 2.0-litre, in-line four-cylinder

Transmission: Six-speed automatic

Power: 253hp @ 5,500rpm

Torque: 389Nm @ 2,500rpm

Fuel economy, combined: 10.7L / 100km

UAE squad

Humaira Tasneem (c), Chamani Senevirathne (vc), Subha Srinivasan, NIsha Ali, Udeni Kuruppuarachchi, Chaya Mughal, Roopa Nagraj, Esha Oza, Ishani Senevirathne, Heena Hotchandani, Keveesha Kumari, Judith Cleetus, Chavi Bhatt, Namita D’Souza.

RESULTS

5pm: Watha Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh 70,000 (Dirt) 2,000m

Winner: Dalil De Carrere, Bernardo Pinheiro (jockey), Mohamed Daggash (trainer)

5.30pm: Maiden (TB) Dh 70,000 (D) 2,000m

Winner: Miracle Maker, Xavier Ziani, Salem bin Ghadayer

6pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 1,600m

Winner: Pharitz Al Denari, Bernardo Pinheiro, Mahmood Hussain

6.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 1,600m

Winner: Oss, Jesus Rosales, Abdallah Al Hammadi

7pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 1,400m

Winner: ES Nahawand, Fernando Jara, Mohamed Daggash

7.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 1,000m

Winner: AF Almajhaz, Abdul Aziz Al Balushi, Khalifa Al Neyadi

8pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 70,000 (D) 1,000m

Winner: AF Lewaa, Bernardo Pinheiro, Qaiss Aboud.

How Beautiful this world is!