The location
In the recently opened Club Vista Mare on Dubai’s Palm Jumeirah. The Tap House sits right by the adjoining beach, overlooking the waters of The Gulf. The cluster of restaurants that have gathered along the club’s promenade offer possibly the closest Dubai has to a Mediterranean-style location, and it’s a great spot to while away an afternoon watching the world go by and sipping on your preferred tipple, Puerto Banus-style.
The atmosphere
Mostly chilled, though the beachfront location and traffic-free environment makes it a popular spot for families, so there is the occasional yelp of a dissident infant to break up the peace and quiet.
When we first arrived at around 1pm the whole area was almost empty, leading me to conclude that perhaps Club Vista Mare hasn’t quite reached the public consciousness yet. By the time our brunch was over, however, The Tap House and its neighbours were packed, leading to a secondary conclusion that if you can afford to live on The Palm, you can probably afford to miss the first hour or so of your brunch.
Music is a background-level mix of pop and R’n’B, which is fittingly unobtrusive for a relaxing afternoon in the sun. The playlist on our visit included Mark Morrison, who we can only assume had previously visited on one of the recent chilly winter nights, as he repeatedly demanded the return of his Mac.
The food
High-end pub grub, served from a three-course set menu rather than buffet-style – the management assured us the menu will change regularly to avoid ennui. The starter of lentil Scotch egg was a surprisingly tasty oddity, with the lentil filling somehow emulating much of the flavour of the more traditional meat version, while a quinoa salad came with plenty of leaves and the ability to assuage at least some guilt for the inevitable fried mains to come. Said mains were, in fact, the most disappointing part of the meal. Both the Southern fried chicken with waffle and maple syrup and the fish and chips had a hint of the supermarket frozen food aisle about them. Neither was bad, but for a venue that aims to position itself “a cut above standard gastropub fare”, I had expected a little more. The chef was back on form for desert. A moist, fluffy sticky toffee pudding and a tangy burnt lemon tart were moreish enough to successfully erase the disappointment of the slightly underwhelming mains.
Who’s it best for?
Families, couples, friends who want a pleasant afternoon of chatting over uncomplicated food and drink without the perennial brunch distractions of DJs whose amps go up to 11, house bands or legions of over-excited revellers.
Verdict
Great location, pleasant atmosphere, decent food. For the location and price I would definitely return.
• The Tap House Friday Brunch takes place every Friday from 12.30pm-4pm. The basic package with soft drinks costs Dh175, house drinks package Dh345, with an option to top up the house drinks until 7pm for an additional Dh175. There's also an Dh90 kids' menu. Reservations and info at 04 514 3778 or info@thetaphouse.ae
cnewbould@thenational.ae