The summer slowdown is quickly becoming a distant memory in Dubai as events and conference season kicks into high gear, and a rich array of entertainment venues and attractions enjoy long-awaited relaunches and grand openings.
Given September can sometimes feel like a new beginning in the city, there is no better time for one of London's most celebrated Indian restaurants to announce its arrival.
Gymkhana – which has attracted a devoted following and garnered two Michelin stars since it first welcomed Mayfair's sophisticated foodie set in 2013 – is now embarking on a new culinary chapter in Dubai.
Anticipation is in the air – along with some tantalising aromas drifting in from the kitchen – as my dining partner and I make our way to our table at the elegant eatery in the heart of the Dubai International Financial District.
The venue
The striking two-level restaurant immediately creates a sense of occasion. It features intimate lighting, arched stained-glass window panels, eye-catching artworks and a peacock-themed mural wrapping around its walls.
Gymkhana, which is inspired by the elite clubs of India where high society gathers, delivers a refined and upscale experience while also maintaining a warm, family feel.
On our midweek visit, we are happy to see the restaurant is packed with smiling customers eager to sample the fine dining London export in all its glitz and glory.
The food
The award-winning restaurant has built its reputation on celebrating the bold flavours found across the length and breadth of India.
The emphasis here is on authenticity and high-quality cooking, with subtle spices and quality ingredients holding sway over the latest fusion fads and theatrical presentation.
The menu offers an abundance of options to suit all needs, from staple starters such as lamb samosas and pappadums to curries, biryanis and kebabs.
Hungry to savour as many of the delicacies as possible, we aim to set a steady pace on our march through the menu.
My guest and I start off with a selection of gol guppas (Dh55), a street-style snack that is diminutive in size, but big on taste. The dish – also known as pani puri or puchka – comprises hollow, fried dough balls filled with black chickpeas and spicy, flavoured water, and designed to be devoured in a single bite.
With our taste buds suitably tantalised, we move on to the Patiala fried chicken (Dh65). The crunchy coating, topped with roasted cumin powder, gives way to melt-in-the-mouth meat.
We cap off our trio of appetisers with Amritsari shrimp (Dh115), served with dill raita, a creamy yoghurt side dish that pairs perfectly with the popular Punjabi staple that is deliciously crispy on the outside and succulent on the inside.
Already impressed by the spread so far – and with some appetite still to spare – we're ready to get stuck into some of the more substantial plates on offer.
After much deliberation, we press ahead with two dishes that have been created exclusively for the Dubai restaurant.
The Makhmali king crab (Dh295) looks set to reign supreme. The generous portions of fresh seafood are bathed in a rich and creamy sauce.
This is a decadent delight that we expect to take pride of place as our favourite feast of the evening – only for it to be swiftly knocked off its throne.
The Wagyu beef sukka with bone marrow (Dh195) proves to be the show-stopper, with flavours so good it may only be a matter of time before it finds its way on to the menu of the London original.
Next, we sample a pair of curries as spice levels get turned up a notch.
The Goan prawn curry (Dh155), which can be mopped up with garlic naan, is a warm and comforting dish that sets a high bar that is cleared by the beef-cheek vindaloo.
The beautifully tender meat delivers a taste to behold and is complemented by a fiery curry sauce.
Not quite ready to put down our cutlery just yet, we opt for a palate-cleansing dessert to cap off the evening in style. The saffron pistachio kulfi falooda (Dh65) is a picture-perfect treat, with multicoloured layers of sweet and aromatic flavours that get better with every spoonful.
Standout dish
Gymkhana has a mouth-watering menu on paper that more than lives up to the hype when brought to the table. Every dish we sampled proved a hit, but it was the fantastic beef cheek sukka that lingers longest in the memory.
The verdict
The news of a London institution coming to Dubai has been the talk of the emirate's dining scene for months – and this major opening looks primed for success.
The sophisticated setting, friendly and attentive service, and good value for premium fare make this a must-visit that you will be counting down the days until you can return.
Contact details
Gymkhana is at Gate Village 7 in the DIFC, and is open daily from 6.30pm to 1am. Lunch timings will follow in October. Reservations can be made by contacting 04 575 4974.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
