MamaBella calls itself a home away from home – and it lives up to the promise with hearty Italian flavours and comforting charm.
The restaurant's location in Kempinski The Boulevard hotel, just across the street from Dubai Opera and Dubai Mall, is strategic, nestled in the middle of all the buzz. But do account for the traffic when visiting.
Inside, the decor is warm and homely with dimmed lights and a lively atmosphere. Photos of grandmothers, or nonnas, preparing food adorn the walls. On one side, there is a spread of fresh produce and olive oil for decoration, alongside fresh fish on a bed of ice.
Greenery hugs every corner, the ceiling is high and the kitchen is on open view to diners.
As we settled down for our meal, a pair of dancers dressed in traditional costumes performed to Italian music. Besides appearing entranced with one another, they also engaged the audience and invite diners to join in with the fun at every hourly performance.
The menu
For our first course, we were led to a private dining area at the rear of the restaurant. There, two Italian nonnas stood stirring a large pot and cutting boiled chicken into small pieces to serve us a meal that was not part of the original menu: Nonna's chicken soup.
In the middle of the room was a large table with 10 chairs and a small stove with counter space behind it. MamaBella’s aim of being somebody’s home away from home starts in this dining area, where two nonnas will arrive from Italy every month to cook a dish of their choosing. The restaurant will feature it as a special dish for diners. The nonnas will be chefs, mothers of chefs or simply women eager to make a good meal.
The chicken soup was uncomplicated – something you might have when suffering from a cold or when visiting a grandma’s house. It was salty with a slight kick, but balanced with soft celery, carrots and tomatoes. The chicken was tender, delicious and, best of all, the soup tasted home-made, which was deeply comforting.
Back at the table, we started with the burrata (Dh105), which was my favourite. It was unlike any other burrata salads I had tasted with an especially creamy texture, paired with heirloom tomatoes, wild rocket, aromatic basil, and a splash of pesto. It's a great option for vegetarians and cheese-lovers.
The bite-sized fried calamari and prawns starter (Dh95) was a delight, reminding me of the shores of Skopelos and the warmth of Athens in the summer. The seafood was perfectly crisp, with home-made tartare sauce thick enough to scoop.
Crispyzza Mama’s (Dh85) was one of the more peculiar pizzas I’ve tried. I thought the name suggested a crispier crust, but this was the light or diet version of a regular pizza. Made with a crispy flatbread, the beef carpaccio was smoky, pairing well with the powerful flavour of black truffle, and topped with rocket leaves, olives and Parmesan. While it tastes like a pizza, it doesn’t exactly feel like one.
Next, we tried the culurgiones pasta (Dh85), and after the first bite I knew I would be thinking about this dish for days afterwards. Perfectly cooked ravioli from Sardinia soaking in a tomato coulis, it was the ideal combination of creamy, juicy and herby.
While I don’t usually opt for fish as a main, our server was keen for us to try the branzino (Dh189), and it didn’t disappoint. The chargrilled Mediterranean fish was soft with an oily quality, marinated in an Amalfi lemon sauce and served with turnip greens on the side.
Dessert brought a trio of Sicilian cannolis (Dh50) to the table. They were crispy and stuffed with a rich ricotta cream filling made in-house by an Italian chef who specialises in it, and dipped in chocolate flakes. One thing to note is the aftertaste of the fried shell is strong, although I didn't mind that.
Three flavours of profiterole (Dh50) were the ideal close to the night. Rich pistachio, bittersweet chocolate and smooth vanilla custard, the pastries were crunchy to bite into but soft and delicious on the inside.
Verdict
Offering flavours from the Amalfi coast and the island of Sardinia, MamaBella values traditions in a fine dining setting. The dance performances involving guests and the concept of nonna’s food make the dining experience personal and enjoyable.
For those who crave a night out with good food and an Italian taste of home, this place is for you, although it's a splurge rather than a casual dinner.
Contact information
MamaBella is open from Monday to Thursday from 12pm to 1am and until 2am from Friday to Sunday. Reservations can be made by calling 04-4308999.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
