Live from New York Fashion Week: Victoria Beckham versus Philipp Plein

The designers presented two very different shows this weekend

Models walk the runway for the Victoria Beckham SS18 show during New York Fashion Week on September 10, 2017 in New York. / AFP PHOTO / EDUARDO MUNOZ ALVAREZ

Victoria Beckham and Philipp Plein presented shows at two opposite ends of the spectrum during New York Fashion Week.

Beckham's show notes spoke of a desire to express strength through delicacy, and the collection did exactly that. Like Jonathan Simkhai, Beckham choose muted pastel colours and soft creams that were relaxed and calm, and just as the designer herself has embraced a more androgynous style, so her spring/summer 2018 collection felt more ambiguous and pared back. Mixing crisp cottons with off-duty silhouettes, this was a truly lovely collection, dominated by a stunningly soft palette.

Meanwhile, on the other side of town, Philipp Plein stayed true to his reputation for serving up the unpredictable and exploring the darker side of life. Under the theme Good Gone Bad, Plein stuck to the rockstar staples of  logoed T-shirts, and studded leather and denim, this time throwing in deconstructed corsetry for good measure.

Although definitely risqué by UAE standards (having Dita Von Teese in a giant glass is always going to put a certain slant on things), in New York the spectacle felt right at home. Pleinn had the unlikely models 21 Savage, Rich the Kid and Metro Boomin walking for him, and just in case we hadn't understood properly, he wrote Good Gone Bad across a male model’s torso, and enlisted Nicky Minaj to play at the afterparty.

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