Men's Arab Fashion Week in Dubai showcases the best of regional design talent

Michael Cinco, Amato Couture and Born in Exile were among the brands that presented their latest collections

Impeccable tailoring and high-quality materials from Valette Studio. Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

Pierre-Francois Valette founded Valette Studio in 2020 after winning the Saint Laurent Couture Institute Prize. Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

A look from Barmo's presentation at Mens Arab Fashion Week. Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

Barmo's collection was inspired by Modernist art. Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

A look from Maison du Mec's presentation. Photos: Mens Arab Fashion Week

Maison du Mec's jackets, crisp white shirts and trousers are crafted for its wearers to live life to the fullest. Photos: Mens Arab Fashion Week

Maison du Mec's show at Mens Arab Fashion Week. Photos: Mens Arab Fashion Week

Michael Cinco's collection was dubbed The Impalpable Dream of the Voyager. Photo: Michael Cinco

Michael Cinco's autumn/winter 2022-23 menswear collection. Photo: Michael Cinco

Micheal Cinco's collection was inspired by travel. Photo: Michael Cinco

Michael Cinco's chosen colour palette was vibrant and decadent. Photo: Michael Cinco

Shades of blue, cherry red and exuberant plum were layered with turtlenecks in equally uplifting hues. Photo: Michael Cinco

Slick suiting from Michael Cinco. Photo: Michael Cinco

A colourful look from Michael Cinco. Photo: Michael Cinco

Artist and fashion designer Zaid Farouki hand-painted one of his pieces on the runway. Photos: Arab Mens Fashion Week

Zaid Farouki's namesake label showcased six looks. Photos: Arab Mens Fashion Week

Designer Furne One of Amato Haute Couture. AFP

Amato Couture always presents extravagance. AFP

Amato Couture's collection featured varying shades of gold. AFP

And lashings of leopard print. AFP

Amato Couture's show featured looks for men and women. AFP

Amato Couture is known for its decadent collections. AFP

Futuristic looks from Asher Levine. Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

American designer Asher Levine works with state-of-the-art materials, illumination technology and digital fashion. Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

Looks Born In Exile. Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

Hailing from Libya, Ibrahim Shebani, the creative director of Born In Exile, wanted to highlight the impact of the country's oil boom on both the economic and social landscape Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

A look by Ahmed Amer. Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

Lebanese designer Ahmed Amer's pieces included suiting, jackets and athleisure wear. Photo: Mens Arab Fashion Week

The third Men's Arab Fashion Week took place this weekend at Dubai Design District. Held in partnership with the Arab Fashion Council, the three-day event featured 15 emerging and seasoned designers showcasing their latest collections.

"As an integral part of our d3 community, it is always wonderful to see our home-grown talent showcasing their work," says Khadija Al Bastaki, the executive director of d3.

International talent was also showcased, from Lebanon, Iraq, Libya, Jordan, the UK, France, Switzerland and the US.

Celebrities and influencers showed their support both on and off the runway, including British singer Conor Maynard and Bollywood actress Urvashi Rautela, with the event offering everything from classic tailoring to innovative technology.

Here are some of the highlights ...

Amato Couture

Nadia Ferreira, left, the reigning Miss Universe first runner-up and Miss Universe Paraguay, and Bollywood actress Urvashi Rautela at Furne One's show for his Amato Couture label, on the first day of Arab Fashion Week Menswear. All photos: AFP

Although it was a men's showcase, the Filipino designer's famous show-stopping gowns also made an appearance on the catwalk.

The black runways had male and female models saunter down, decked out in intricate ensembles in every shade of gold.

Billowing robes, capes, and trench-like jackets in glistening silk were the standouts.

Lashings of leopard print, crafted into luxury leisure pieces, offered up Arabian Nights-meets-Midsummer Night's Dream vibes.

Bollywood actress Urvashi Rautela on the catwalk.

The 30-piece collection titled The Ambush was named after a group of tigers.

Alongside the collection, Amato Couture held the premiere of a fashion film titled 'Eden'.

The fashion film featured the house's first male muse and is set in the dramatic landscape of Dubai's desert.

Having dressed everyone from Beyonce to Jennifer Lopez and Lady Gaga to Katy Perry, Furne One's eye for detail is second to none, making him a favourite of both stage performances and red carpets.

The opulence of the fabrics was elevated with exotic jewellery piled on.

Billowing robes, capes, and trench-like jackets in glistening silk were the standouts.

'It is all about getting out of your comfort zone, embracing the uncertain and uniting together to claim our collaborative power,' said the designer about the show.

Lashings of leopard print featured in billowing robes.

There were body-hugging jumpsuits just calling out for the likes of Lenny Kravitz and Steven Tyler to don them for a concert or two.

Nadia Ferreira, the reigning Miss Universe first runner-up and Miss Universe Paraguay, also walked the runway.

Bollywood actress Urvashi Rautela wore a floor-sweeping beaded gown featuring a thigh high slit, an oversized gold lame cape with statement sleeves flung over her shoulders and a chainmail headpiece which added to the overall indulgence.

Necklaces arrived in heavy chains, with elephant heads layered up with claws and chain belts.

One of the luxury leisurewear creations at the show.

Ready for the desert dunes, the men wore sandals or no shoes at all, with black and orange aviators, caps, and silk scarves the accessories to covet.

If there's one theme that ties every Amato Couture show together, it's extravagance. Designer Furne One's autumn/winter 2022-23 menswear collection, entitled Eden, did not disappoint. The show was predominantly made up of robes, capes and trench-like jackets, featuring 50 shades of gold and lashings of leopard print.

The Filipino designer served up a star-studded runway with Rautela, Nadia Ferreira, the reigning Miss Universe first runner-up and Miss Universe Paraguay, Laura Olascuaga, Miss Universe Colombia 2020, TikTok star Elvir Aljicevic and Emirati YouTuber Rashed Belhasa, aka "Money Kicks", all walking the catwalk.

Michael Cinco

Michael Cinco presented his new menswear collection at Menswear Arab Fashion Week. All photos: Michael Cinco

The Filipino designer showcased his menswear autumn/winter 2022-23 at the event held in Dubai Design District.

For his latest collection, Michael Cinco channelled the golden era of travel and adventure.

Called The Impalpable Dream of The Voyager, most of the collection was focused on jackets and suiting.

The menswear autumn/winter 2022-23 outfits offered a promise of wanderlust.

The show took guests on a journey of impeccable craftsmanship.

Since he launched his namesake label in the UAE in 2003, Michael Cinco has captured the industry's attention with his extravagant creations.

Michael Cinco matches the extravagance of his women's creations in his new menswear collection.

About the showcase on January 29, Michael Cinco said: "The past couple of years have been restricting and as borders open, we must breathe new life into travel."

With this new collection, the designer wants us to think more about the journey than the destination.

For the new era of post-pandemic travel, Michael Cinco wants travellers to don the very best of modern ensembles, instead of athleisure.

Three and four-piece suit sets were a highlight of the show.

Oversized multi-hued open coats.

Wide-leg harem trousers for a comfortable journey.

Oversized trenches.

A touch of the past with Victorian sleeves, beret and boots.

Channelling 1960s jet-set style in a colour-blocked zip-up cardigan.

Flowing robes and impeccably tailored suits blended to create a fashion statement for the new-age traveller.

As always, Michael Cinco brought a touch of the fantastical to the ramp, such as with this creation featuring a billowing cape.

A touch of whimsy with aviator-inspired goggles and a bright yellow confection.

The models played to the gallery by displaying the fluidity of the outfits they were wearing.

The outfits appeal to a new generation of travellers by mixing formal tailoring with casual style elements and blending colour palettes.

Brightly hued floor-sweeping coats offered an almost ethereal feel.

Embellished coats paired with wide-leg trousers featuring oversized turn-ups.

Old aviator inspired outfits brought a touch of nostalgia.

Patterned suits with caped coats.

The designer did not shy away from mixing different style elements, for the fashion-forward voyager.

The tailoring of the items was second to none.

Aviator overalls got a new and flamboyant makeover.

A glimpse of the theatrical runway at the Michael Cinco menswear autumn/winter 2022-23 show.

Layered outfits paired with travel staples such as trainers and crossbody bags.

The Impalpable Dream of the Voyager was the title Filipino designer Michael Cinco gave to his autumn/winter 2022-23 menswear collection.

Inspired by travel, it felt like a return to the golden age of aviation, with models walking the runway in decadent suiting and tailoring. Not for your wallflower, the colour palette was vibrant, with shades of blue, cherry reds and exuberant plum layered with turtlenecks in equally uplifting hues. Standout pieces were adorned with layered feathers and sequins, which took 50 to 80 hours to create.

Maison Du Mec

A look from Maison Du Mec's presentation. Photo: Men's Arab Fashion Week

Joseph Achajian, the creative director and founder of Lebanese label Maison Du Mec, believes in being unconventional. Calling on guests to "test new waters", the collection, although appearing to offer classic tailoring and suiting, aimed to deliver so much more.

Jackets, crisp white shirts and trousers had been crafted for wearers to live life to the fullest. "Rebels in corporate suits, astronauts at the cashier and mad artists disguised as the guy next door …" said the brand.

Born In Exile

Looks from Born in Exile. Photo: Men's Arab Fashion Week

Hailing from Libya, Ibrahim Shebani, the creative director of Born in Exile, wanted to highlight the impact of the country's oil boom on the economic and social landscape. The collection, titled Blood, Sweat and Oil, featured mixed materials with many designs splashed with an oil print.

Traditional Libyan patterns were also highlighted, alongside white flowing knitwear reminiscent of the country's customary robes.

Barmo

A look from Barmo's presentation. Photo: Men's Arab Fashion Week

A new player on the Middle East’s fashion scene, Barmo was established by Bardiya Mortezaei in 2021. Headed by creative and brand manager Behshad Bordbar, alongside concept designer Sima Ahvaz, the house’s collection had pieces inspired by the great artists of the Modernist era.

“In this concept we were inspired by seven modern artists, with the only core concept the imagery around the Last Supper,” explains Bordbar. Standout designs included hoodies and trousers crafted out of sport fleece and thick sweaters in bold primary colours.

Ahmed Amer

A look by Ahmed Amer. Photo: Men's Arab Fashion Week

This was the first time Lebanese designer Ahmed Amer launched a collection outside of Beirut, titled Am I Floating Or… The audience got to experience much of the showcase through the designer’s eyes, with illustrations being projected on the runway.

Looks included suiting, jackets and athleisure wear, with many pieces featuring custom illustrations, patterns and hand embroidery.

Asher Levine

Futuristic looks from Asher Levine. Photo: Men's Arab Fashion Week

American designer Asher Levine is known for his innovative approach to fashion. Working with state-of-the-art materials, illumination technology and digital fashion, he illustrated why celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj and Doja Cat are fans of his work.

Soft tailoring and outwear were at the core of the collection, with a 3D-printed vest and leather jacket stealing the spotlight.

Womenswear also featured, with a biomorphic dress inspired by dragonflies and artificial intelligence. The audience were able to use their mobile devices to experience Asher’s new virtual AR fashion in real-time with his wearable NFTs.

Valette Studio

Looks by Valette Studio. Photo: Men's Arab Fashion Week

Pierre-Francois Valette founded Valette Studio in 2020 after winning the Saint Laurent Couture Institute Prize. A lover of sharp tailoring, his work features the highest quality materials and impeccable detailing.

Dubbed Classix Nouveau, the collection offered a nod to “quirky elegance a l’anglaise”. This entailed looks that blended formality with streetwear and were inspired by British legends such as David Bowie and Freddie Mercury. Tartan patterns were aplenty, with silhouettes and shapes non-constricting but still cut with couture-like precision.

Zaid Farouki

A look from Zaid Farouki's runway show. Photos: Men's Arab Fashion Week

Jordanian artist Zaid Farouki's namesake label showcased six looks inspired by the culture, land and history of the Arab region. Modern interpretations of traditional clothing were emblazoned with the brand’s signature taglines, which mix English and Arabic text to spell out the phrases like “I am oriental”, “I am Arab” and “Being Arab Is My Pride”.

The final look was hand-painted by Farouki on the runway and featured the phrases “oriental”, “Arab”, “I am my land” and "Being Arab Is My Pride & Inspiration”.

Emergency Room

Showcasing the power of upcycling, Beiruti brand Emergency Room works with thrifted second-hand and vintage materials to create one-of-a-kind designs.

Founded by Eric Mathieu Ritter in 2018, the sustainable brand presented colourful ensembles with mismatched prints at Men's Arab Fashion Week. Of note was a yellow patchwork jacket that was finished with tassels along its sleeves and a matching short set.