Arabic calligraphy may be prominent on book covers and gallery walls, but the age-old art form is becoming increasingly popular among aficionados of apparel and accessories.
Numerous home-grown labels are weaving calligraphical strokes into everything from streetwear to statement dresses.
What’s in a word?
Head to the recently opened THAT Concept Store in Dubai’s Mall of the Emirates, and you’ll see an assortment of statement Plexiglas clutches on display. Some are adorned with the keffiyeh scarf print, while others are embellished with the word “love” in bold Arabic calligraphy – artistry that Palestinian designer Meera Toukan has always been drawn to.
“I believe words written in calligraphy hold powerful meaning, and the way they’re written makes it even more appealing and helps bring me closer to my roots,” says Toukan, who launched her eponymous brand in 2014.
“It’s art and it’s heritage. I love how traditional it is, yet it’s versatile and can easily be played around with to make it more fitting to the modern consumer.”
Toukan also stamps words such as “peace” and “freedom” on to her clutches.
“The reason I stick to these three pillars is because I always wish for freedom, peace and love in its all its forms, in the Middle East and around the world,” Toukan tells The National.
I wanted to bring to life the vision of designing minimalistic praying clothes that will leave us in clarity and comfort
Nawal Masri,
founder, Exhale
The Arabic words for “peace”, “patience” and “truth” also decorate dresses from Canava, a brand by Nisreen Krimed. Her fabrics, which are handmade in Dubai, feature calligraphy-covered chiffons layered over newspaper prints and maps of Damascus and Jerusalem.
She says the words she chooses reflect timeless virtues, and experiments with their scale and placement.
“The abstraction of pictures into words also holds a meaning in the shape itself,” says Krimed, whose passion for design and “garment manipulation” was sparked as a child, watching her mother and sisters sewing clothes.
Layered meanings and messages
While some designers experiment with layering fabrics, others reflect on the layered meanings of Arabic words. Nawal Masri is the founder of streetwear label Exhale, which collaborates with artists, most recently an Arabic calligrapher who calls by the pseudonym illm.
The clothing you own represents you ... and affects your mood, attitude and psychological state
Nawal Masri,
founder, Exhale
Arabic letters fill the outlined silhouette of hands in prayer, which features on the back of a hooded prayer cover-up from the collaboration.
“The praying hands in Arabic calligraphy act as your wings to soar higher,” Masri explains. “I wanted to bring to life the vision of designing breathable and minimalistic praying clothes that will leave us in clarity and comfort during prayer, to present ourselves to Allah with beauty, not materialistically, but soulfully.”
Exhale illustrates Arabic phrases in various typography themes, often linked to topical events. A collaboration with calligrapher Diaa Allam, for instance, is an ode to the Emirates Mars Mission, and features the words “nothing is impossible” in Arabic.
A celebration of diversity and unity
These designers believe Arabic calligraphy can be an inspiring and unifying art form, as well as an intimate reflection of beliefs and cultural roots.
“Using the language in my designs is how I stay true to my core,” says Masri. “The clothing you own ends up representing you, and what we choose to represent us affects our mood, attitude, confidence, performance and psychological state.”
I want to create fashion pieces that resonate with this generation, but also introduces our rich heritage to the world
Meera Toukan,
handbag designer
Perhaps this is why Arabic calligraphy has been on the rise in fashion, not only in the Middle East but also in the West, where brands such as Zidouri (which features Arabic embroidery on streetwear and jewellery) are flourishing. Arabs and Muslims in these areas are often marginalised communities, yet donning calligraphy-emblazoned garments can be a sartorial statement of pride and political or religious allegiance.
“What makes [the language] even more beautiful are the dialects and accents used in different countries – yet we all write it the same way, and this is what unifies us,” says Toukan.
“A lot of Arab millennials classify themselves as ‘third-culture kids’; it makes our generation an interesting one. I want to create fashion pieces that resonate with this generation, but also introduce our rich heritage to the world.”
Fashion is often political, and in a world where young fashion enthusiasts are imbuing their style with emblems of culture, heritage and faith, Arabic calligraphy makes a trendy but also touching statement.
“Anything is impactful if it connects to its audience,” says Emirati fashion designer Fatma Al Mulla, known for her bold, graphic dresses, kaftans and accessories, often stamped with tongue-in-cheek Arabic phrases.
“The beautiful language has words with such deep meanings that, in some cases, they cannot be translated – they are rooted not only in Arabs, but Muslims around the world.”
Customised pieces for a personal touch
Al Mulla’s newest designs merge her trademark Arabic pop culture aesthetic with decadent calligraphy.
“Being a brand that was born in Dubai, I am bound to have the language imprinted in my designs,” she says. Her patrons can customise their dresses with oversized bedazzled letters or initials, making for conversation-starters.
“The embroidered letters take a lot of work, usually three to 10 hours, depending on the size that the client orders,” she says. “They are stuffed, a cloth is added for support and then the beading begins. The colours of the beads are also completely customisable to the client.”
Customisation is proving to be a popular service, given the power of words; Toukan also personalises her Plexiglas clutches withArabic and English letters.
The universal appeal of language
While Arabic calligraphy may naturally resonate with speakers of the language, all the designers say they are happy to see their work attracting non-Arab clients, too.
Masri believes calligraphy, being a statement on its own “magnetises” those who come across it, whether or not they can read it, while Toukan describes it as “eye-catching” and “intriguing” to non-Arabs. “It leaves the consumer eager to learn more about the culture, norms and heritage.”
Krimed echoes Masri when she says that Arabic, in its tangible, calligraphic form, offers an authentic and accessible dose of culture to non-Arab consumers, concluding that “the aesthetics of calligraphy allow it to be one of the easiest ways to immerse yourself in a cultural experience, even if you don’t read or speak the language”.
Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026
1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
3. More tax audits
Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks.
4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime
Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.
5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.
6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes.
7. Limited time periods for audits
Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion.
8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer
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Director: James Cameron
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Rating: 4.5/5
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
