Fashion notes: Bit of effort can help menswear look effortless

Men love to ridicule fashion and the whole pomp that surrounds it – easier than admitting to understanding, or worse still, liking, the whole “razzle dazzle”. You see, the rules in menswear are rather more constricting (not to mention confusing) than womenswear. Black tie, white tie, smart casual, business casual, cocktail – it’s a minefield out there, the difference between a tie and bow tie being enough to ruin a wrongful man. Not that any of this should be a big deal. After all, all we have to do is follow the rules closely, allowing us to get the most out of our wardrobe choices.

I’ll start with the trends, as I know it is normally the very mention of these that tend to throw you off-kilter. This season was awash with athleticism, a utilitarian and informal aesthetic (this isn’t so bad, is it?) steered by the need to make the collections more wearable to consumers compared with the last few seasons. Gone are the days of colour blocking, lace (come on) and other awkward, socially unacceptable trends and, thankfully, in comes a more grounded approach to dress.

From Kim Jones to Louis Vuitton and Carol Lim at Kenzo, the influence of sportswear was undeniable with the detailed use of mesh, neoprene and zipper tops. Shorts were longer (this is a good thing) and somehow more appropriate than previous seasons. Designers inspired by football and basketball wear with a wide and loose style were seen at James Long and Salvatore Ferragamo among others.

The urban bomber jacket, last seen in the 1990s, is set to make a comeback, worn closed with a straight-legged jean as seen at Haider Ackermann and Calvin Klein. Although this time around it includes a more tailored cut with innovative fastenings and colour combinations much like the mods of the 1960s. In the same vein, we welcome safari and hunting jackets in soft leathers that give off a whopping air of luxury in comparison.

The word utility seemed to sum things up well. Even at Milan, where things are often more artisanal than the other menswear fashion weeks, design seemed to be more functional at a certain level. At Fendi, a nod was given to the desert colours of sand, deep lilacs and Sahara sunsets with the normally ridged tailored pieces given a more casual mix. For the more traditional client, Giorgio Armani combined the finest materials of grey, navy and black with beautiful tailored leather goods.

In terms of print, it wasn’t a year for sissies. Prada separated the men from the boys with printed hot flowers used within a bold Hawaiian print and a collection of abstract motifs. Sunset prints in a high octane colour palette gave the show a South Pacific feel, and dark blooms appeared on knitwear and suiting in the same vein at Gucci. Dries Van Noten also offered a selection of bolder-than-normal prints on leisurewear.

When it comes to beating menswear at its own game, aside from the obvious (getting properly fitted) take the time to try to understand quality. Give the fabric a good squeeze; the quicker it bounces back to its original shape without creasing, the better its quality will be. When it comes to fabric type, wool is obviously the first choice if possible, as it holds its shape best, but if the climate is simply too hot for wool, then linen, cotton and silk are your next best.

It is the little details that matter this season: an interesting shirt collar, a pair of laceless shoes, a leather bomber jacket should do the talking. What you really want is to look and feel comfortable without looking wholly disinterested.

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