What Pierpaolo Piccioli's move to Balenciaga says about fashion's direction of travel

Appointment by Spanish luxury house signals move away from streetwear and return to couture

Italian fashion designer Pierpaolo Piccioli has been named creative director at Balenciaga, taking over from Georgian designer Demna. AFP

Balenciaga has named Pierpaolo Piccioli as its new creative director.

The former creative lead at Valentino succeeds Demna, the Georgian designer, known mononymously, who had led the renowned Spanish couture house for the past decade.

Piccioli spent more than 25 years at Valentino, where he staged blockbuster couture shows for both men and women, and his appointment is the latest in a series of big-name moves in the fashion industry.

“He is one of the most talented and celebrated designers of today,” said Francesca Bellettini, deputy chief executive of Balenciaga parent company Kering, in a statement. “His mastery of haute couture, his creative voice and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the house.”

Demna's design legacy

Demna will be taking over at Gucci later this year. His 10-year tenure at Balenciaga has been disruptive by design, blending high fashion with streetwear and pushing silhouettes to extremes.

From gigantic trainers and knee-length hoodies to puddled jeans and handbags made to resemble disposable coffee cups, his work captured a generation eager to defy convention.

At its peak, the brand struck a powerful chord with an establishment-weary young audience and pieces flew off the shelves. But what was once radical now feels out of step.

The days of oversized trainers and streetwear appear to be over at Balenciaga as it returns to its couture roots. Photo: Balenciaga

Enter Piccioli, whose appointment suggests that the brand will move back towards couture. He represents a return to elegance and refinement, in contrast to the brashness of streetwear. His appointment is evidence of a renewed appetite for the type of quiet craftsmanship that transcends social media-driven trend cycles.

Pierpaolo Piccioli's appointment is an indication of a wider industry shift in response to slowing sales. Photo: Balenciaga

Balenciaga has always been synonymous with sophisticated construction and avant-garde silhouettes. The brand founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, is still considered “the couturier’s couturier” – a designer so ahead of his time that, even 50 years after his death, the intricacies of his work are still being studied. Piccioli’s appointment feels like the brand reconnecting with its roots.

End of streetwear?

So, could this latest move also mark the beginning of the end for fashion’s broader obsession with high-end streetwear? As the industry becomes oversaturated with baseball caps, logo hoodies and trainers, many brands have started to look indistinguishable, chasing the same customer with ever-thinner differentiation. By joining Balenciaga, Piccioli offers an alternative: one rooted in emotion, softness and romance.

His move is the latest in a year of change. With new creative leads already in place at Chanel, Gucci, Dior and Loewe, 2025 is shaping up to be a landmark year for fashion.

Collectively, the changes suggest that the industry is pivoting towards designers who can meet the challenge of evolving consumer expectations. Customers are growing weary of escalating prices and the relentless pace of the fashion calendar. Brands appear to be seeking visionaries who can offer something more enduring.

A look by Pierpaolo Piccioli, from the Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show. Getty Images

Piccioli style

Piccioli is a romantic and pours love into his collections. Famous for his unique colour combinations (mustard and lilac, anyone?), he has a gift for bringing tones together in ways that feel unexpected yet instantly familiar. His clothes are joyful, emotive and often transcendent.

The announcement of his move to Balenciaga caught many by surprise. But in many ways it was preordained. Beauty is back.