Faux fur, oversized coats and hot water bottles dominated Burberry’s runway as Daniel Lee presented his vision for the British heritage label at London Fashion Week on Monday.
In a dark marquee in the city's Kennington Park, Lee delivered a colourful take on Burberry's classic camel and black and red checks as the brand moves into a new era under his tenure.
The Bradford, England-born chief creative officer, 37, drew inspiration from Burberry’s affinity with exploration and the outdoors in his first collection for the fashion house, according to the show notes.
Silhouettes were oversized and soft around the edges across both womenswear and menswear. Meanwhile the mackintosh-style trench coat was reimagined in a muted khaki with green faux fur lapels.
English rose-patterned tailoring sat alongside chunky rubber boots with an equestrian twist, cosy square-toed shearling and faux fur shoes in the autumn/winter 2023 collection.
There were also feather-embellished outfits in autumnal tones and pleated tartan-inspired kilts over trousers.
A revamped version of the Equestrian Knight design was blown up on blankets and dresses in blue and white.
Outfits were accessorised with hot water bottles, fuzzy trimmed bags and big scarves.
There was a notable absence of big-name models walking, in contrast with previous Burberry events that have featured those such as Bella Hadid.
Actor Jude Law's daughter Iris, and singer-songwriter Liam Gallagher's son Lennon, both walked Monday's runway.
Lee's outfits are key to chief executive Jonathan Akeroyd's aim to move the 167-year-old brand more upmarket and to attract younger consumers. Monday's show follows the unveiling of Burberry's new logo — a sleeker elongated typeface and a campaign steeped in "Britishness".
The Burberry Classics preview campaign released earlier this month, the first under Lee's creative direction, brought back a redesign of the brand's Equestrian Knight motif and featured British celebrities including footballer Raheem Sterling, rapper and MC Skepta and actress Vanessa Redgrave.
Lee previously created a buzz at Italy's Bottega Veneta with pillowy leather clutch handbags and slip-on heels. He replaced Riccardo Tisci last year.
MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League semi-final, first leg
Tottenham 0-1 Ajax, Tuesday
Second leg
Ajax v Tottenham, Wednesday, May 8, 11pm
Game is on BeIN Sports
Short-term let permits explained
Homeowners and tenants are allowed to list their properties for rental by registering through the Dubai Tourism website to obtain a permit.
Tenants also require a letter of no objection from their landlord before being allowed to list the property.
There is a cost of Dh1,590 before starting the process, with an additional licence fee of Dh300 per bedroom being rented in your home for the duration of the rental, which ranges from three months to a year.
Anyone hoping to list a property for rental must also provide a copy of their title deeds and Ejari, as well as their Emirates ID.
Switching%20sides
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GOLF’S RAHMBO
- 5 wins in 22 months as pro
- Three wins in past 10 starts
- 45 pro starts worldwide: 5 wins, 17 top 5s
- Ranked 551th in world on debut, now No 4 (was No 2 earlier this year)
- 5th player in last 30 years to win 3 European Tour and 2 PGA Tour titles before age 24 (Woods, Garcia, McIlroy, Spieth)
Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026
1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
3. More tax audits
Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks.
4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime
Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.
5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.
6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes.
7. Limited time periods for audits
Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion.
8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer
GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
Thor: Ragnarok
Dir: Taika Waititi
Starring: Chris Hemsworth, Tom Hiddleston, Cate Blanchett, Jeff Goldblum, Mark Ruffalo, Tessa Thompson
Four stars
LIVING IN...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
The UAE's journey to space
