Burberry's Daniel Lee stages tribute to British heritage in debut runway show

In a dark marquee in London's Kennington Park, the designer delivered a colourful take on Burberry's classic camel, black and red checks

A model walks the runway during Burberry's London Fashion Week show. AFP

The collection marked the debut of Burberry's chief creative officer Daniel Lee. Bloomberg

Faux fur, oversized coats and hot water bottles dominated the runway. AP

The show was presented in a dark marquee in London's Kennington Park. AFP

Lee's collection blended moody hues. AFP

There were vibrant pops of colour. AFP

Silhouettes were oversized and soft around the edges across both womenswear and menswear. AFP

Big-name models, such as Gigi and Bella Hadid, were absent from the runway. AFP

Burberry's mackintosh-style trench coat was reimagined in a muted khaki with green faux fur lapels. AFP

Oversized silhouettes on the Burberry runway. Reuters

British heritage patterns given a modern lift. AFP

Lee displayed his playful side via a statement duck hat. Reuters

Rich red checks on the runway. Reuters

A pop of yellow as an oversized trench coat. Bloomberg

Jude Law's daughter Iris Law on the runway. Bloomberg

Familiar Burberry camel tones modernised with yellow. AP

Feathers were a prominent theme in the collection. AP

Faux fur, oversized coats and hot water bottles dominated Burberry’s runway as Daniel Lee presented his vision for the British heritage label at London Fashion Week on Monday.

In a dark marquee in the city's Kennington Park, Lee delivered a colourful take on Burberry's classic camel and black and red checks as the brand moves into a new era under his tenure.

The Bradford, England-born chief creative officer, 37, drew inspiration from Burberry’s affinity with exploration and the outdoors in his first collection for the fashion house, according to the show notes.

Silhouettes were oversized and soft around the edges across both womenswear and menswear. Meanwhile the mackintosh-style trench coat was reimagined in a muted khaki with green faux fur lapels.

A model wears a coat with green faux fur lapels during the Burberry autumn/winter 2023 London Fashion Week show. AP

English rose-patterned tailoring sat alongside chunky rubber boots with an equestrian twist, cosy square-toed shearling and faux fur shoes in the autumn/winter 2023 collection.

There were also feather-embellished outfits in autumnal tones and pleated tartan-inspired kilts over trousers.

A revamped version of the Equestrian Knight design was blown up on blankets and dresses in blue and white.

Outfits were accessorised with hot water bottles, fuzzy trimmed bags and big scarves.

There was a notable absence of big-name models walking, in contrast with previous Burberry events that have featured those such as Bella Hadid.

Actor Jude Law's daughter Iris, and singer-songwriter Liam Gallagher's son Lennon, both walked Monday's runway.

Lee's outfits are key to chief executive Jonathan Akeroyd's aim to move the 167-year-old brand more upmarket and to attract younger consumers. Monday's show follows the unveiling of Burberry's new logo — a sleeker elongated typeface and a campaign steeped in "Britishness".

The Burberry Classics preview campaign released earlier this month, the first under Lee's creative direction, brought back a redesign of the brand's Equestrian Knight motif and featured British celebrities including footballer Raheem Sterling, rapper and MC Skepta and actress Vanessa Redgrave.

Lee previously created a buzz at Italy's Bottega Veneta with pillowy leather clutch handbags and slip-on heels. He replaced Riccardo Tisci last year.