It is no secret that I have a particular affinity for Japanese cuisine, finding myself easily drawn to its traditional charm and soulful flavours.
So, when a new Japanese restaurant opened in Jumeirah 1 earlier this month, I was intrigued by the homegrown concept's positioning.
Tanso calls itself a "Neo-Tokyo dining gallery", which means it embraces non-traditional methods and delivers a modern take on dishes. The dining gallery element nods to the artistic atmosphere that both the interiors and dishes hope to evoke.
Heading down days after opening, here's how it measured up.
First impressions
Nestled in a discreet nook on Jumeirah Road, the beige-and-stone villa offers a glimpse into the relaxed interior, washed in warm light. Valet service eliminates the stress of parking as you arrive.
Then it comes to deciding on seating: outdoors with a view of the busy street, indoors on their signature red couches that complement the stone walls, upstairs on a more secluded rooftop, or a private dining room fit for eight with a view of the city. We opt for the indoor couches for comfort, under the cosy lighting and in air conditioning.
As my guest and I are seated, we're handed a cool towel at the table, much needed as the days edge closer to summer.
The menu
Alongside its main offerings, Tanso also has a seasonal menu that changes every three months and fuses regional flavours with Japanese dishes. Until July, the restaurant is offering dishes that are inspired by the GCC, but made with Japanese techniques. Throughout the evening, we move between the two menus.
We start with three varieties of edamame, each priced at Dh30. We both enjoy the sea salt; my favourite is the spicy bowl, finding its zing moorish, while my guest prefers the charred edamame coated in wagyu tallow with a heavier bite.
Then we work through a series of smaller bites. First up, a cold plate of Tanso's bite-sized fish and chips (Dh58) comprised of a crunchy layer of potato pavé topped with seabass sashimi and a brush of truffle kosho, adding zest and spice to the otherwise mild dish. Name aside, it's nothing like what you might taste in a traditional British chip shop, it's an interesting dish in itself.
Twists on global cuisine staples continue with Wagyu French toast (Dh92), starting with a layer of toasted milk bread, topped with a juicy wagyu striploin and premium Oscietra caviar – a simple yet elevated combination.
The mushroom salad (Dh62), meanwhile, was minimal, yet surprisingly satisfying. Playing with temperature and texture, the warm mushroom medley is mixed with crunchy baby gem lettuce and shiitake crisps, tied together with a creamy, light dressing and 24-month-aged Parmesan grated to finish.
Next up, "soil" (Dh45) is an exemplary chargrilled aubergine – a balanced, smoky, tangy and perfectly umami combination.
For mains, we stick to the standard menu. We opt for the Chilean seabass (Dh118), a fall-apart-at-the-touch white fish sitting in a warm ginger sauce and topped with an edamame relish. It's fresh, light and complete with all the right Asian flavour notes.
From the seasonal menu, we try "local" (Dh98): organic chicken breast with crispy skin, bathed in a sweet-and-savoury glaze, with a side of fragrant mushroom rice topped with spring onions. It's comforting and hearty.
After a quick cucumber sunomono salad (Dh25) palate cleanser, we go for the midori short rib (Dh98), meaning green in Japanese. Rich and fatty short rib steak sits in a zesty green Thai curry, making for a distinctive blend of flavours.
Handmade by the chef at our table, the red salmon roe handroll was mixed in a smoked chilli mayo and drizzled with teriyaki sauce, a balance of hot and tangy. And of course, you can't go to a Japanese restaurant and skip sushi. We try the signature sunrise maki (Dh115), and it's an elaborate eight-piece pickled asparagus roll topped with a slice of marinated Wagyu striploin, with a soft sunny-side egg in the centre of the plate to be broken as eaten with each bite. While not a fan of sunny-side eggs, the concept is interesting and it adds a unique touch.
For dessert, we take an option from each menu. The "palm" dessert is Tanso's spin on sticky date pudding. It's made with banana and medjool dates, then soaked in a miso-caramel sticky sauce, with a side of ashta or clotted cream ice cream. A true tribute to local flavours, this dessert is the right level of sweet and delivers pure comfort.
And finally, the chocolate and feuilletine, a complete indulgence and a tribute to my love for chocolate and karak tea (Dh58). Made of rich chocolate mousse, a maple brownie with karak ice cream and chocolate sauce, this one is certainly for the chocolate lovers who grew up in the Emirates.
Standout dish
As my guest and I ventured through the dishes, I kept looking back on "soil" from the seasonal menu, the chargrilled aubergine dish. Cooked in truffle soy and smoked miso, the aubergine cut through like butter, its insides carmelised with a serious glaze on the surface.
Both the taste and texture left an impression as the aubergine cut through like butter. It's a light, incredibly flavourful and vegan-friendly dish that I would come back for time and item again, though sadly it is only available until July.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal at Tanso can cost between Dh111 and Dh587. On the high end of the price spectrum lie the marrow & grain (Dh109), the strip loin ishiyaki (Dh420) and the chocolate and feuilletine (Dh58).
The three most reasonable dishes are the miso soup (Dh22), the layered katsu (Dh64) and the ice cream and sorbet selection (Dh25).
The verdict
While I'm a fan of traditional Japanese cuisine, I found Tanso's playful concept to be charming and easy to enjoy.
While the appetisers were pricey for their size, their flavour profiles are interesting if you're craving something unusual. The chargrilled aubergine, midori short rib and Chilean seabass are undoubtedly worth a revisit.
Contact information
Tanso is open every Tuesday to Sunday from 12pm–11pm and is located in Villa V32 in Jumeirah 1, Dubai. Reservations can be made by calling 04 257 2835
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant.
