Do I dare to eat a peach? was a rhetorical question. I think it’s safe to assume that TS Eliot was referring to neither stone fruit nor any latent bravado in the act of consuming one. It’s a poem about the lament for passions unmet and opportunities missed. My musings on produce, while less prolific than my cravings for it, are also defined by a fleeting seasonality, windows barely open before they slide shut again until the following year’s harvest. As Ralph Waldo Emerson said: “There are only 10 minutes in the life of a pear when it is perfect to eat.” I’d grudgingly eaten my way through enough disappointing peaches and pears to know what I was after, but I couldn’t taste it yet.
Still, my finger did waver over the “confirm order” button before committing to the purchase of a dozen peaches from Frog Hollow Farm, a purveyor of organic stone fruit – peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, plums and pluots – in California. It was July about 10 years ago and the O’Henry peaches that arrived were so stunning that I ordered another box a week later for my family. By then, it was August, and the peaches were Cal Reds, so explosively potent that they surpassed every cliché that’s ever existed about a peach.
A couple of weeks ago, I visited Frog Hollow Farm’s “urban farm stand” in San Francisco, to load up on organic fruit to take to Sonoma. It was the memory that enticed, but with peach season waning, the selection revolved around Shinko and Warren pears. I already knew the buzz about the Warren pear, had read and heard arguments that it was the world’s finest variety. Getting a thumbs-up from Oprah and Martha Stewart hadn’t hurt its visibility. Americans have been obsessed with the gift of pears for 80 years, ever since Harry & David launched their signature Royal Riviera.
The next day, while driving up the foggy coast toward Bodega Bay, I bit into a hefty brown Warren the size of a butternut squash. Nose-deep in nectar, I fell head over heels into a dreamy, pear-drugged nostalgia. A Warren might be compared to a French Butter pear on steroids: perfumed, herbaceous and classically autumnal, with creamy silken flesh the colour of ivory.
Because peaches ripen on the tree, their ripeness is measured in degrees Brix, the sugar content of their juices. Unlike peaches, pears don’t ripen on the tree, and it’s important to pick them before they fully mature or they’ll turn gritty. As with a great peach, I find that a great pear is best appreciated in its raw and unadulterated state: cooked, it becomes something else.
Mail-order fruit is the ultimate splurge and after that expensive summer, I convinced myself not to reorder Frog Hollow peaches, like I might will myself not to wave as the car carrying someone I love drives off. The deprivation hurt less than the delayed promise of an empty box. But we economise on certain luxuries to make others possible and I’ve come to appreciate pleasure as a kind of luxury, too. So I have a feeling some Warren pears will be turning up very soon.
Nouf Al-Qasimi is an Emirati food analyst who cooks and writes in New Mexico
Final round
25 under - Antoine Rozner (FRA)
23 - Francesco Laporta (ITA), Mike Lorenzo-Vera (FRA), Andy Sullivan (ENG), Matt Wallace (ENG)
21 - Grant Forrest (SCO)
20 - Ross Fisher (ENG)
19 - Steven Brown (ENG), Joakim Lagergren (SWE), Niklas Lemke (SWE), Marc Warren (SCO), Bernd Wiesberger (AUT)
2020 Oscars winners: in numbers
- Parasite – 4
- 1917– 3
- Ford v Ferrari – 2
- Joker – 2
- Once Upon a Time ... in Hollywood – 2
- American Factory – 1
- Bombshell – 1
- Hair Love – 1
- Jojo Rabbit – 1
- Judy – 1
- Little Women – 1
- Learning to Skateboard in a Warzone (If You're a Girl) – 1
- Marriage Story – 1
- Rocketman – 1
- The Neighbors' Window – 1
- Toy Story 4 – 1
MEYDAN CARD
6.30pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-1 Group One (PA) US$65,000 (Dirt) 1,600m
7.05pm Handicap (TB) $175,000 (Turf) 1,200m
7.40pm UAE 2000 Guineas Trial Conditions (TB) $100,000 (D) 1,600m
8.15pm Singspiel Stakes Group Two (TB) $250,000 (T) 1,800m
8.50pm Handicap (TB) $135,000 (T) 1,600m
9.25pm Al Maktoum Challenge Round-1 Group Two (TB) $350,000 (D) 1,600m
10pm Dubai Trophy Conditions (TB) $100,000 (T) 1,200m
10.35pm Handicap (TB) $135,000 (T) 1,600m
The National selections:
6.30pm AF Alwajel
7.05pm Ekhtiyaar
7.40pm First View
8.15pm Benbatl
8.50pm Zakouski
9.25pm: Kimbear
10pm: Chasing Dreams
10.35pm: Good Fortune
MATCH INFO
Manchester United 2 (Heaton (og) 42', Lindelof 64')
Aston Villa 2 (Grealish 11', Mings 66')
Series information
Pakistan v Dubai
First Test, Dubai International Stadium
Sun Oct 6 to Thu Oct 11
Second Test, Zayed Stadium, Abu Dhabi
Tue Oct 16 to Sat Oct 20
Play starts at 10am each day
Teams
Pakistan
1 Mohammed Hafeez, 2 Imam-ul-Haq, 3 Azhar Ali, 4 Asad Shafiq, 5 Haris Sohail, 6 Babar Azam, 7 Sarfraz Ahmed, 8 Bilal Asif, 9 Yasir Shah, 10, Mohammed Abbas, 11 Wahab Riaz or Mir Hamza
Australia
1 Usman Khawaja, 2 Aaron Finch, 3 Shaun Marsh, 4 Mitchell Marsh, 5 Travis Head, 6 Marnus Labuschagne, 7 Tim Paine, 8 Mitchell Starc, 9 Peter Siddle, 10 Nathan Lyon, 11 Jon Holland
2025 Fifa Club World Cup groups
Group A: Palmeiras, Porto, Al Ahly, Inter Miami.
Group B: Paris Saint-Germain, Atletico Madrid, Botafogo, Seattle.
Group C: Bayern Munich, Auckland City, Boca Juniors, Benfica.
Group D: Flamengo, ES Tunis, Chelsea, Leon.
Group E: River Plate, Urawa, Monterrey, Inter Milan.
Group F: Fluminense, Borussia Dortmund, Ulsan, Mamelodi Sundowns.
Group G: Manchester City, Wydad, Al Ain, Juventus.
Group H: Real Madrid, Al Hilal, Pachuca, Salzburg.
Series result
1st ODI Zimbabwe won by 6 wickets
2nd ODI Sri Lanka won by 7 wickets
3rd ODI Sri Lanka won by 8 wickets
4th ODI Zimbabwe won by 4 wickets
5th ODI Zimbabwe won by 3 wickets
Paltan
Producer: JP Films, Zee Studios
Director: JP Dutta
Cast: Jackie Shroff, Sonu Sood, Arjun Rampal, Siddhanth Kapoor, Luv Sinha and Harshvardhan Rane
Rating: 2/5
Ahmed Raza
UAE cricket captain
Age: 31
Born: Sharjah
Role: Left-arm spinner
One-day internationals: 31 matches, 35 wickets, average 31.4, economy rate 3.95
T20 internationals: 41 matches, 29 wickets, average 30.3, economy rate 6.28
THE SPECS
Engine: Four-cylinder 2.5-litre
Transmission: Seven-speed auto
Power: 165hp
Torque: 241Nm
Price: Dh99,900 to Dh134,000
On sale: now
MATCH INFO
Manchester City 0
Wolves 2 (Traore 80', 90 4')