Soon after the launch of my first food column, a reader wrote to alert me that I had used the word "ambrosial" two weeks in a row. She advised me to more carefully monitor my vocabulary.
Objection sustained. My little sister does a knockout impersonation of me to entertain family and friends, during which she rolls her eyes a lot and describes a dish as "sublime" seven or eight times. Hilarious, yes.
Words are evocative and also provocative - just like everything else that can move us to scream in laughter or in frustration. Even though I'm often the culprit, I have gripes about how words are applied to food. Tracking this association and its resulting discord leads me to my childhood, of course, and the spring my uncle opened a steakhouse outside of Boston. He phoned us in Abu Dhabi with regular updates, and we'd crowd around the phone listening to his extravagant descriptions of the new restaurant's signature menu item, a filet mignon that he promised would be "like butter".
"You'll see for yourselves when you visit this summer," he said. "This steak is so tender you're going to cut it with a butter knife."
We were delirious with anticipation. Really, a butter knife? That steak didn't leave my thoughts for months. This was the 1980s, and filet mignon was big, as were keyboard synthesizers and hair. As June approached, its reputation in our household grew legendary. Finally, the school year ended, and we flew east, toward steak. And on the first night of our summer holiday, we went to eat that steak.
But the filet was nothing like my uncle had said it would be. With a cramp in my wrist, I sawed at my dinner with a serrated knife, swallowing my heartbreak with every leathery mouthful. I was crestfallen. From then on, my juvenile gullibility - at least for steak - was damaged.
The use of hyperbole when describing dishes has annoyed me ever since. If it's the "world's best", then I hope you have seven billion affidavits filed. If it's "to die for", then back it up with a death certificate.
Still, exaggeration rates relatively low on my list of grievances. These days, that list is topped by the terms that make me want to give anyone who uses them a bottle and a nap: "yum", "yummy", "scrummy", "nummers", and worst of all, "nom", an evil piece of internet slang that's short for "om nom" and means exactly what it sounds like - if you're four years old. I'm not sure what it's supposed to sound like to an adult. Other abbreviations and diminutives, such as "veggies", "sammies" (for sandwiches) and "resto" are equally unacceptable.
There are the unnecessarily moralistic terms, such as "sinful" and "wicked" (considering the state of our world, a placid piece of cake seems pretty innocuous); the redundancies, such as "fresh", "perfectly cooked" and "oven-baked"; the awful clichés, such as "falling off the bone", "sealing in the juices", and, my least favourite, "belly up to the bar", which sounds simultaneously jolly and belligerent, like an angry Santa.
There's also the host of invented words: "melty", "moreish", "pukka", and your word of choice with a "licious" tacked on to the end. Words like "molten" and "unctuous" seem more suitable for a workshop than a kitchen, but I'll take them over the crazy-making trend of willy-nilly hyphenation, such as "fork-tender" and "harpoon-caught". I don't need the image of a hunting weapon superimposed on my sashimi supper.
I hate the words "munch" and "nibble", which are to eating what "chortle" and "snigger" are to laughing, in that I'll never be convinced that anyone actually does these things. For similarly aesthetic reasons, I once resolutely refused to enter a restaurant on the premise that it was named "Delectables".
There are the ridiculous attempts to euphemise things that just don't warrant it - such as using "bruléed" to mean "browned under the broiler". Far worse, though, are shameless lies that insult the diner, such as "seasonal" fruit plates that are anything but. And on that note, why should I care if my potatoes were preciously "fork-mashed" rather than put in bulk through a food mill? Just focus on making them good.
Of course, reacting badly to the misuse of a word differs from reacting to its overuse or to a plain dislike of the word and its implications. The North American insistence upon using the word entrée to mean "main course" drives me nuts, as does "au jus" when preceded by a preposition.
"Foodie" is particularly contemptible, and not only because foodies are the 12-step recovery programme term for compulsive overeaters. "Gourmet" is repellent, too; in addition to sounding like the phoniest thing ever, I've never heard the word used in earnest by anyone who actually enjoys food.
What freaks me out more than anything, though, is bawdy talk about food. These associations are implicit to anyone who eats and thinks - and they are almost impossible to convey without sounding like a complete moron. If it's needless to say, don't say it.
And yes, I have committed many of the above. Bless me, reader, for I have sinned – and I did it all by myself. I didn't even need the wicked piece of cake to tempt me.
Nouf Al-Qasimi is an Emirati food analyst who cooks and writes in New Mexico
artslife@thenational.ae
A list of the animal rescue organisations in the UAE
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How to play the stock market recovery in 2021?
If you are looking to build your long-term wealth in 2021 and beyond, the stock market is still the best place to do it as equities powered on despite the pandemic.
Investing in individual stocks is not for everyone and most private investors should stick to mutual funds and ETFs, but there are some thrilling opportunities for those who understand the risks.
Peter Garnry, head of equity strategy at Saxo Bank, says the 20 best-performing US and European stocks have delivered an average return year-to-date of 148 per cent, measured in local currency terms.
Online marketplace Etsy was the best performer with a return of 330.6 per cent, followed by communications software company Sinch (315.4 per cent), online supermarket HelloFresh (232.8 per cent) and fuel cells specialist NEL (191.7 per cent).
Mr Garnry says digital companies benefited from the lockdown, while green energy firms flew as efforts to combat climate change were ramped up, helped in part by the European Union’s green deal.
Electric car company Tesla would be on the list if it had been part of the S&P 500 Index, but it only joined on December 21. “Tesla has become one of the most valuable companies in the world this year as demand for electric vehicles has grown dramatically,” Mr Garnry says.
By contrast, the 20 worst-performing European stocks fell 54 per cent on average, with European banks hit by the economic fallout from the pandemic, while cruise liners and airline stocks suffered due to travel restrictions.
As demand for energy fell, the oil and gas industry had a tough year, too.
Mr Garnry says the biggest story this year was the “absolute crunch” in so-called value stocks, companies that trade at low valuations compared to their earnings and growth potential.
He says they are “heavily tilted towards financials, miners, energy, utilities and industrials, which have all been hit hard by the Covid-19 pandemic”. “The last year saw these cheap stocks become cheaper and expensive stocks have become more expensive.”
This has triggered excited talk about the “great value rotation” but Mr Garnry remains sceptical. “We need to see a breakout of interest rates combined with higher inflation before we join the crowd.”
Always remember that past performance is not a guarantee of future returns. Last year’s winners often turn out to be this year’s losers, and vice-versa.
BEETLEJUICE BEETLEJUICE
Starring: Winona Ryder, Michael Keaton, Jenny Ortega
Director: Tim Burton
Rating: 3/5
Russia's Muslim Heartlands
Dominic Rubin, Oxford
The specs: 2019 GMC Yukon Denali
Price, base: Dh306,500
Engine: 6.2-litre V8
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Power: 420hp @ 5,600rpm
Torque: 621Nm @ 4,100rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 12.9L / 100km
LUKA CHUPPI
Director: Laxman Utekar
Producer: Maddock Films, Jio Cinema
Cast: Kartik Aaryan, Kriti Sanon, Pankaj Tripathi, Vinay Pathak, Aparshakti Khurana
Rating: 3/5
David Haye record
Total fights: 32
Wins: 28
Wins by KO: 26
Losses: 4
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'Skin'
Dir: Guy Nattiv
Starring: Jamie Bell, Danielle McDonald, Bill Camp, Vera Farmiga
Rating: 3.5/5 stars
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How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
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Huddersfield Town permanent signings:
- Steve Mounie (striker): signed from Montpellier for £11 million
- Tom Ince (winger): signed from Derby County for £7.7m
- Aaron Mooy (midfielder): signed from Manchester City for £7.7m
- Laurent Depoitre (striker): signed from Porto for £3.4m
- Scott Malone (defender): signed from Fulham for £3.3m
- Zanka (defender): signed from Copenhagen for £2.3m
- Elias Kachunga (winger): signed for Ingolstadt for £1.1m
- Danny WIlliams (midfielder): signed from Reading on a free transfer
MATCH INFO
Uefa Champions League quarter-final, second leg (first-leg score):
Manchester City (0) v Tottenham Hotspur (1), Wednesday, 11pm UAE
Match is on BeIN Sports
MATCH INFO
Burnley 0
Man City 3
Raheem Sterling 35', 49'
Ferran Torres 65'
The Perfect Couple
Starring: Nicole Kidman, Liev Schreiber, Jack Reynor
Creator: Jenna Lamia
Rating: 3/5
MATCH RESULT
Al Jazira 3 Persepolis 2
Jazira: Mabkhout (52'), Romarinho (77'), Al Hammadi (90' 6)
Persepolis: Alipour (42'), Mensha (84')
Israel Palestine on Swedish TV 1958-1989
Director: Goran Hugo Olsson
Rating: 5/5
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