Geneva is renowned for its picturesque setting, perched on Lac Léman and surrounded by snowy mountain tops. I, like many foreigners, moved there due to its proximity to the mountains, outdoor lifestyle and its links to Northern Europe and the Mediterranean. But how do you get the most out of what is often referred to as "the smallest big city in Europe"?
The heart of the city is the Old Town. It is teaming with tourists, especially in the summer, but is a must see. The narrow cobbled streets, impressive 15th century buildings and the incessant chiming of the cathedral bells immediately evoke a historical feel. One of the first things locals learn is to cast aside uncomfortable footwear in preparation for the maze of cobbled-stones and calf-pinching climbs up the hill. I enjoy strolling through the Bourg du Four, a vibrant marketplace which dates from the Middle Ages and remains the hub of the Old Town, with lively outdoor cafes and a seemingly never-ending cycle of tourists and students.
Visit the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, a Gothic church with a neoclassical façade. It is worth paying to get in to the archaeological site beneath the cathedral and venture down the walkways, which wind their way deep underground. One of my favourite hidden gems is the Zoubov Foundation Museum on Rue des Granges. Decorated in the style of the French salons of the 18th century, it houses rare and beautiful pieces that Countess Zoubov collected on her travels in the 1920s, from Louis XIV furniture and opulent crystal to bronze chandeliers from St Petersburg, unique Chinese hand-painted artefacts and paintings by Vigée-Lebrun. This lavish apartment reflects the grandeur of the buildings in the Old Town with their oversized fireplaces and tall ceilings.
Lac Léman is undeniably Geneva's biggest attraction. I never tire of walking along the lakeside towards Cologny, taking in Geneva's signature Jet d'Eau, a column of water spraying 137 metres into the air. Swim in the lake at Genève Plage and relax in the laid-back beach cafe next to the wakeboarding and windsurfing huts. Exquisite chocolates, to-die-for cheese counters and shop windows filled with watches are unavoidable in Geneva. But as far as good shopping is concerned, the choices are limited. This is by no means London or Paris. Unless you want to buy luxury brands, conveniently situated side by side along the rue du Rhône, then you are left with slim pickings from the lower quality high street stores. I focus my shopping energies and spending power on several boutiques such as Zadig & Voltaire, a stylish Parisian brand, and Septième Étage's mainly US designer clothing.
Grand-rue epitomises all that is the Old Town - a street crammed with antique shops, art galleries and boutiques. Visit Theodora to create your own fragrance and the jewellery shop Jill Wolf for one-off pieces by famous designers. For eating out, there are plenty of alfresco venues to choose from, but dinner at La Réserve, a spa hotel on the Rive Droite, is one of my favourites. Book the complimentary boat service to take you to the hotel jetty in their Venetian Motoscaffo. It is as good a way as any to enjoy the lake and take in the amazing views of the Jura mountains, the Palais des Nations, Cologny and, on a clear day, Mont-Blanc.
Closer to the city centre, I recommend the Pâquis area, which offers an eclectic mixture of restaurants serving trendy international cuisines from Moroccan to Mexican. It is also a great place to go for a taste of Geneva's boho chic nightlife.
