A MiG-19 jet fighter inside the main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base near the city of Lezhe, Albania. AFP
A MiG-19 jet fighter inside the main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base near the city of Lezhe, Albania. AFP
A MiG-19 jet fighter inside the main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base near the city of Lezhe, Albania. AFP
A MiG-19 jet fighter inside the main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base near the city of Lezhe, Albania. AFP

Albania looks to offload old MiG jets for Dh41,000 each


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On a barren hillside in northern Albania lies a portal to the country's communist past: a massive steel door creaks open to reveal a hidden former air base burrowed into the heart of the mountain.

One of the gates to the main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base. AFP
One of the gates to the main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base. AFP

Made up of 600 metres of tunnels that once teemed with military life, the secret Gjader air base is now a depot for dozens of hulking communist-era MiG jets collecting dust in the darkness.

The main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base. AFP
The main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base. AFP

Three decades after shedding communism, Albanian authorities are still trying to sell off the Soviet and Chinese-made aircraft, of which there are dozens more in another nearby air base, according to AFP .

"Aligning our equipment and our weapons to the Nato standards" is part of Albania's "new chapter" with the Alliance, which it joined in 2009, says the military's chief of defence Bardhyl Kollcaku.

As for the MiGs, "apart from nostalgia, [for which] we will keep some of them in our museum ... the rest will be treated according to the domestic legislation for sale or other usage," he said.

Albanian military personnel next to MIG-19 jet fighters at Gjader Air Base. AFP
Albanian military personnel next to MIG-19 jet fighters at Gjader Air Base. AFP

The communist-era jets, which include MiG-19, MiG-17 and MiG-21 models among others, have been out of commission for well over a decade.

But museums, collectors and other aviation aficionados have already expressed interest in giving the relics a new home.

When Albania first discussed selling the MiGs in 2016, requests came in from the Air and Space Museum in France, as well as a flight school in Germany.

Yet no sales have been completed to date, with legal paperwork holding up the process.

Individuals are also on the waiting list, including Albania-based French businessman Julien Roche, who plans to install the plane in his garden.

"It's not so easy to get this kind of aircraft now, because all of them have been mainly destroyed, not stored like they are in Albania," he said.

He has put his name down for one of the oldest models, a Chinese-made MiG-15 with a price tag of around €10,000 (Dh41,262), which was used by North Koreans before being gifted to Albania.

However, the country is hardly looking to MiG sales to boost the economy; Albania's economy grew 4.06 per cent in 2018, the Institute of Statistics said on Friday citing preliminary estimates, up from 3.84 per cent in 2017 and just under forecasts of 4.2 per cent, according to Reuters.

The Institute estimated the growth in 2018 gross domestic product based on quarterly figures. The economy expanded 3.1 per cent in the fourth quarter of 2018 compared with the same quarter in 2017, but that was more than a percentage point lower than growth in the other three quarters.

The economy expanded by an annual 4.42 per cent in the first quarter, 4.32 per cent in the second and 4.48 per cent in the third quarter. Fourth-quarter GDP grew 0.57 per cent over the third quarter, the Institute said.

Much of the growth was driven by electricity output, which benefited from heavy rain. Almost all of Albania's power comes from the hydro plants.

Mining, manufacturing, energy and water helped GDP to expand in the fourth quarter, contributing 1.11 percentage points to growth, the Institute said.

Albania expects GDP growth of 4.3 per cent in 2019. Less optimistically, the International Monetary Fund forecasts growth of 3.7 per cent, since construction of a major pipeline is ending.

The clandestine Gjader was, like the 7,000 concrete security bunkers that dot the countryside, part of former communist dictator Enver Hoxha's plan to fortify his hermit state against feared foreign invasions that never materialised.

More than 600 military personnel used to work inside the maze of tunnels that were shuttered in 2000 and remain off limits to the public.

Jets flown after 2000 used a different military base, until the last of the planes were taken out of service following an accident in 2004.

Opening up the dark and damp tunnels the base's current commander Fatmir Danaj admits the old planes evoke an unexpected nostalgia.

"The pleasure of flying and of working in this base was unimaginable," Cmdr Danaj said, as he shone his torch on a row of silver jets, which, as a young pilot, he used to land on the runway that feeds into the mountain.

Albanian fighter jet pilot and former airforce commander Fatmir Danaj. AFP
Albanian fighter jet pilot and former airforce commander Fatmir Danaj. AFP

Today, the scores of rooms inside - including a cafeteria, dorms and array of other offices - are empty except for a scattering of debris and the faded signs on their doors announcing their function.

In one empty office, a reminder still hangs on the wall: "Attention! Put documents in their files and submit them to the secret administrative office before leaving the workplace."

During his nearly 40 years of rule, Hoxha turned Albania into the most militarised country in the Balkans.

That backfired spectacularly in 1997, seven years after the fall of communism when the country was swept up by an armed rebellion that saw citizens raid armouries and military bases for weapons.

Gjader was also breached, with people looting weapons and selling parts of some MiGs as scrap metal.

Today the Albanian airforce has only a small fleet of helicopters and its air space is protected by Nato.

In a sign of the changing times, the first Nato base in the Balkan region will be built in Albania's Kucova, once known as "Stalin City" as a symbol of friendship at that time between Albania and the Soviet Union.

But Cmdr Danaj still dreams of seeing Gjader returned to its former glory.

"The base could serve as a museum, but with its modern infrastructure, its tunnel system, it can be functional again and serve Nato," he said.

A MIG-19 jet fighter inside the main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base. AFP
A MIG-19 jet fighter inside the main tunnel of the Gjader Air Base. AFP
Farage on Muslim Brotherhood

Nigel Farage told Reform's annual conference that the party will proscribe the Muslim Brotherhood if he becomes Prime Minister.
"We will stop dangerous organisations with links to terrorism operating in our country," he said. "Quite why we've been so gutless about this – both Labour and Conservative – I don't know.
“All across the Middle East, countries have banned and proscribed the Muslim Brotherhood as a dangerous organisation. We will do the very same.”
It is 10 years since a ground-breaking report into the Muslim Brotherhood by Sir John Jenkins.
Among the former diplomat's findings was an assessment that “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” has “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
The prime minister at the time, David Cameron, who commissioned the report, said membership or association with the Muslim Brotherhood was a "possible indicator of extremism" but it would not be banned.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
If you go

The flights

Emirates flies from Dubai to Seattle from Dh5,555 return, including taxes. Portland is a 260 km drive from Seattle and Emirates offers codeshare flights to Portland with its partner Alaska Airlines.

The car

Hertz (www.hertz.ae) offers compact car rental from about $300 per week, including taxes. Emirates Skywards members can earn points on their car hire through Hertz.

Parks and accommodation

For information on Crater Lake National Park, visit www.nps.gov/crla/index.htm . Because of the altitude, large parts of the park are closed in winter due to snow. While the park’s summer season is May 22-October 31, typically, the full loop of the Rim Drive is only possible from late July until the end of October. Entry costs $25 per car for a day. For accommodation, see www.travelcraterlake.com. For information on Umpqua Hot Springs, see www.fs.usda.gov and https://soakoregon.com/umpqua-hot-springs/. For Bend, see https://www.visitbend.com/.

THE BIO

Favourite car: Koenigsegg Agera RS or Renault Trezor concept car.

Favourite book: I Am Pilgrim by Terry Hayes or Red Notice by Bill Browder.

Biggest inspiration: My husband Nik. He really got me through a lot with his positivity.

Favourite holiday destination: Being at home in Australia, as I travel all over the world for work. It’s great to just hang out with my husband and family.