Why Kolhapur?
Kolhapur, in the western state of Maharashtra and located on the banks of the River Panchganga, is considered the abode of Goddess Mahalakshmi and has an incredible cultural and archaeological heritage. Hemmed in by the Sahyadri Mountains of the Western Ghats, the city was once a princely state ruled by the Bhosale royal clan of the Maratha Empire, and is famous for its affiliation with the warrior Chhatrapati Shivaji.
The royal family’s patronage has endowed the city with a wealth of Art Deco and Indo- Saracenic architecture. In 1945, excavations close to the Brahmagiri hill revealed a town dating back to Roman times. The city is also home of the Kolhapuri leather footwear that is now synonymous with the place. Plus, Kolhapur is a gourmet paradise. The influence of the maharajas who ruled this city lives on in the cooking, especially in the meats spiced with local chillies.
A comfortable bed
Away from the clutter of the old city and along a green zone is the newly opened luxury hotel Sayaji, part of a chain that offers elegant doubles, for 4,500 rupees (Dh240), in a central location. The hotel has three restaurants and a 24-hour coffee shop.
Hotel Raysons Regency has comfortable air- conditioned rooms with ergonomic study tables, from 3,000 rupees (Dh162), and a restaurant serving local specialities.
Nisarg Resort, with stone cottages located on a hill, is a little far from the main town but ideal for a relaxing break. Rooms start at 3,000 rupees (Dh162).
Find your feet
The New Palace, also known as the Shree Chhatrapati Shahu Museum (entrance 20 rupees, Dh1), is on Bhausingji Road. Dating back to 1884, the black stone building, with onion domes and a clock tower, has been turned into a museum that houses eclectic collections of the former maharaja. The palace and its park are open to the public, though the royal family still lives upstairs. This rundown museum exudes nostalgia of the Raj era, with stuffed animals mounted on walls, tables with zebra legs and black-and-white photographs from a sepia age of pursuits such as pig-sticking and elephant fights. The huge Durbar Hall, with tiled floors, a cast iron balcony and stained glass, depicts various events in Shivaji’s life.
The neo-gothic Town Hall Museum on the same road (entrance fee 20 rupees [Dh1]) has architecture that draws from Raj era, Hindu and Arabian influences. The museum also has pottery, bronze artefacts and coins excavated from the nearby Brahmagiri hill.
Meet the locals
Rankala Lake, an artificial lake surrounded by palaces and temples, was built by the royal family. Today, the lake, with its paths, parks and birds, functions as the city’s main leisure space. Vendors sell street food such as roasted corn and bhel puri (puffed rice with potatoes, chillies, onions and chutneys). There are horse rides and boating for children. The atmospheric old town quarter around the Mahalakshmi temple and the Old Palace has a huge traffic-free plaza that buzzes with vendors selling cooking vessels made of stone, flower garlands, religious paraphernalia and street food.
Book a table
Try local specialities at Hotel Opal, which serves vegetarian and non-vegetarian thalis, the latter with tambda rassa (red curry) and pandhara rassa (white curry). A meal for two will set you back 350 rupees (Dh19). To taste misal (sprouted beans cooked with onions and tomatoes and served with pav bread), head to no-frills Khasbag Misal (opposite Khas Bhag Ground), where spices are made in-house, based on a family recipe.
Shopper’s paradise
Chappal Galli in Shivaji Market has rows of shops selling the leather footwear that has made the city famous. Watch artisans perform a centuries-old craft that still relies on handwork and vegetable dyes. While funky versions of Kolhapuris are available, the classic remains a favourite. Navbharat Chappals, (79 Shivaji Market, Shivaji Market Road) is a good place to hunt for a pair, which cost from 450 rupees (Dh 25). The streets around Mahalakshmi Temple, is where you’ll find the intricately designed Kolhapuri saaj and thushi jewellery. Hemant Jewellers (281 B Ward, Gujari) stocks a nice range of these beauties. The city is also famous for its jaggery, called gurhal, made from sugarcane juice and sold by roadside vendors.
Don’t miss
Watch mardani khel (manly sport), which traces its history to Maratha warriors. It features 14 ways to wield a sword, sticks and other weapons, with adults and children demonstrating techniques and feats such as slicing a lemon placed on another person’s neck. This usually takes place in the courtyard of the Old Palace, inside the old city walls.
What to avoid
Rainy season is from June to September and the city is prone to severe floods. Also, save the outdoor excursions for the early mornings and evenings. The afternoon sun can be harsh.
Getting there
Flights on Emirates and Etihad cost from Dh940 return from the UAE to Mumbai, from where you can take a domestic flight/train to Kolhapur. Another option is a week-long journey on the luxury train, The Deccan Odyssey, which runs from Mumbai to Goa, stopping at Kolhapur.