It’s a story straight out of a rags-to-riches Bollywood film: a young boy from the humble Indian village of Malhausi – where he had to study under the light of a kerosene lamp – works his way up the ladder to become one of the most exciting names in fashion. Now, that boy is set to conquer one of the industry’s biggest platforms: Paris Fashion Week.
Rahul Mishra, 35, didn’t even plan to become a designer. After finishing a physics degree at Kanpur University in Uttar Pradesh, his father hoped for him to become a doctor or an engineer. But Mishra was bored of science and wanted a change. So, buoyed by a childhood love for doodling, he sat for the entrance exam of the National Institute of Design, India’s premier design school in Ahmedabad. He got in, finished a degree in apparel design, and eventually became the first non-European to win a full scholarship to Istituto Marangoni in Milan, Italy.
Mishra’s career took off soon after, showcasing his works in Dubai, London and Australia. Last year, he made history by becoming the first Asian to win the prestigious International Woolmark Prize, the previous winners of which include Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Karl Lagerfeld.
On Saturday, the spotlight will be back on Mishra as he presents his latest collection in Paris, where he’s one of the youngest talents in a slate of super-labels that include Chanel, Dior and Hermès.
Ahead of the big show on Saturday, the New Delhi-based designer told The National about his roots, respecting the provenance of traditional textiles and his work with Indian craftsmen.
The collection you’re presenting in Paris is titled “Fourth Dimension”. What story are you trying to tell?
The collection is an engaging dialogue of opposites – an ambiguity where sheer and opaque, drapery and structure, and the play of different textures bring together a juxtaposition of different elements and shapes. With “Fourth Dimension”, I revisit the past by mixing traditional handmade artisanship with 3-D technology.
Your garments blend the earthiness of handloom textiles and urban fashion. Do you consider this as your design philosophy?
My aesthetics are all about detailed simplicity. We use old handmade techniques to create a very modern look that’s functional and fuss-free. My approach to design is to create timeless fashion with a sense of newness attached to it. My philosophy is to not just create fashion for consumption – our system cultivates crafts, cultures and people.
Speaking of which, can you tell us about your work with families from Indian villages in creating your clothing?
I find myself really lucky that I come from a country where we have so many age-old art forms and craft techniques which are still being preserved and practised. It’s a tailor-made opportunity as we have more than 20 million people in India engaged in the crafts and handmade sector. We have been working with families who have passed it on from generation to generation. I believe that any craft is at its best quality if it stays at its origin. So I keep them in their villages and take the work to them, rather than calling them to work in cities. The Gandhian philosophy of environment, employment and empowerment – I always think of these “three Es” when I create a collection. They apply to all industries, not just fashion. That is why I always use traditional embroideries, to employ and empower rural weavers.
You've come a long way from Malhausi to Paris. How do you feel about that?
In the small place where I grew up, I learnt the value of respect for nature, farmers and animals. The privileges that we have as human beings – this has somehow shaped the vision behind my brand. The entire approach that we follow – craft-based, village-based – can be credited to my humble upbringing. I really feel this philosophy made me excel in life, whether it was winning the International Woolmark Prize or other awards. And now, with the privilege of being on the calendar of Paris Fashion Week, I really feel it is just the beginning for us to reach our bigger objectives.
What's your state of mind in the run-up to the show?
I’m a bit nervous but very excited. We as a team have put all our creative energies together, so a lot of dreams, fears, risks and commitments have gone into making this collection. All this hard work – and we’ll have 10 minutes to make an impression.
• Paris Fashion Week begins tomorrow. Rahul Mishra will show his collection on Saturday. Visit www.rahulmishra.in
artslife@thenational.ae
