Francesco Russo debuts shoe collection and couture service exclusively in Dubai Mall

The man behind some of the past decade's most popular shoes for YSL, Mui Mui and Sergio Rossi unveiled his own bespoke service at Level Shoe District in Dubai Mall.

Francesco Russo’s trunk collection was launched exclusively at The Dubai Mall’s Level Shoe District. Courtesy Francesco Russo

In an exclusive launch at The Dubai Mall's Level Shoe District this week, the shoemaker Francesco Russo rolled out his trunk collection in the Middle East. For nearly two decades the native Italian has worked in-house for some of the mightiest maisons in the business, behind creations including YSL's iconic Jeanne loafers and Tribute sandals. An innovative cobbler with a taste for tradition, Russo took up the reins at the luxury shoemaker Sergio Rossi in 2008 where he remained until launching his eponymous label two years ago. Now, the 41-year-old has set his sights on the region with his presence in the UAE marking his brand's first footprint abroad.

Given that Dubai is home to one of the largest malls in the world, was it your first choice of city for expansion?

Well, Dubai expresses more than specific local needs, it’s also about international ones. As a melting pot, the city has become the New York of the Middle East and a very important crossing point. As a designer and as a shoemaker with a strong passion for “this little object”, being here is like having to access to the entire world. So, we’re here to launch the brand, impress, meet the clients, start conversations with them and better understanding what they need.

Will the trunk be a permanent fixture in Level Shoe District or eventually become a boutique?

Our trunk travels with the collection and my concept comes a bit from the story of Salvatore Ferragamo, whom I respect very much. He started his career by making shoes, putting them in a suitcase and selling them door-to-door. In my case, I contacted Bertoni, one of the oldest trunk makers in Italy, and asked them to personalise a shoe trunk, which would double as a store – with drawers, mirrors, space for books about the materials etc. It’s much more than a pop-up store, it’s more like our bag, it’s how we landed here. I imagine we’ll continue to present the collection this way.

What can ladies can expect when they come here?

Here in Level Shoe District, as in Paris where I’m based, the client can customise their shoes. When I first considered expanding the brand around the world, of course the shoe design element was important, but so was value and service. So here we offer a shopping experience which is closer to couture than prêt-a-porter. A client can of course buy the shoes you see here, but customisation is also a service we offer.

What’s distinctive about a Francesco Russo shoe?

The DNA of my brand has three lines. First is comfort and the best quality. I went into shoe designing because I found it fascinating to watch women’s transformation when wearing high heels. Everything changes; their posture, the way they walk, the way they feel – everything. Wanting to be part of that transformation, I knew that if the shoes weren’t comfortable, everything would be negatively affected. So, comfort was key. Quality, too, because the shoes are meant to be worn more than just once. Second is timeless design, meaning that you’re buying beautiful, refined shoes that go through the seasons and the years. The third and main line of our DNA is our proximity to the client. It’s not just about giving the client customised shoes but really listening to them.

How affordable is customisation?

Our entry point is about Dh1,700 for a classic pump and upwards from there.

After working with leading labels such as Miu Miu and Sergio Rossi, was the decision to go it alone a tough one?

I had to really want to do it. It was definitely challenging, especially in my 40s, having spent 20 years working in major houses with all the comfort that comes with that. You’re spoilt and no one can tell you “no”. It has to be a “yes” and has to be “now and not tomorrow”. When you work on your own you have to accept “no”, accept that you won’t see what you want in five minutes but maybe five days because you’re not the priority and don’t have big numbers. So, yes, it’s a challenge but I’m exploring my passion.

• Find Francesco Russo at Level Shoe District in The Dubai Mall