A swatch of Swarovski

Swarovski invites six regional designers to reinterpret the abaya.

Swarovski, the cut crystal and jewellery specialist, is collaborating with six designers from the Gulf to create a capsule collection of abayas that will be displayed at The Empty Quarter Gallery in Dubai on November 27. The company's aim was to support designers from within the region, while providing a platform for contemporary interpretations of its crystals. "Swarovski is proud to partner with these contemporary abaya designers and continue one of the company's most treasured traditions," says Flemming Nielsen, vice president operations, Asia South, Swarovski Professional. "The philosophy of working with design talent has permeated every aspect of this family run company since it was founded in 1895. The initiative is also closely allied with Swarovski's long history of creative collaborations with the world's most prestigious names in the fashion industry, some of which date back to the early 20th century."
Katie Trotter spoke to the six designers about their designs and their thoughts on the ongoing evolution of the abaya.
Hania Albraikan for Hania, Saudi Arabia
After gaining a bachelor degree in economics, Hania Albraikan went on to study the creative disciplines of photography and fashion in North Carolina. "I had always loved design; it was the family business after all, but studying it really helped me to understand the whole process properly," she says. In June 2011, Hania began consulting for her family's abaya business in the design stages before launching her own line – HANIA – as part of her family's company. Sourcing the highest quality fabrics from around the world, such as delicate Japanese crepe and the finest French silk, her design focus is in the intricate details. Inspired by travel, her abayas are always hand finished with extensive beadwork, lace embellishment, delicate feather edging and sequined panelling, and have been worn by the likes of Princess Ameera, wife of Prince Alwaleed bin Talal.
Rawan Azhar of Ta Marbota, Saudi Arabia
Ta Marbota founder and chief designer, Rawan Azhar graduated from King Abdulaziz University in Jeddah with a degree in Management Information Systems. In 2010, she began designing her own abayas, which led to private commissions. "I didn't used to like wearing the abaya, but I love it now – you have to remember this is our costume, so we need it to be stylish". Her recent collection is inspired by her travels. "Last summer in Newport and Malibu in LA, I was inspired by the beautiful beaches and the differing shades between the sky and the sun," she says. "We are more demanding in terms of design now and we want others to love it as we do." Azhar is also a vibrant contributor to the creative community in Saudi Arabia and the Gulf, and Ta Marbota will be a sponsor of the Women Appreciation Month WAM 2013. "I have made it one of my goals to help young girls understand that our abayas can be part of our wardrobe as well as our culture."
Sheikha Hend Al Qassemi for Medici, Qatar
An accomplished artist, architect and successful entrepreneur (her latest venture is Velvet, a monthly lifestyle publication) Sheikha Hend launched her signature boutique in 2010. Passionate about supporting and encouraging new talent in the region, she hosts monthly fashion shows for regional fashion designers to promote creativity in the GCC and is behind a handful of other commendable projects.
"Arabs have always been in touch with tailoring; growing up, I was surrounded by design," she says. "We tend to pay attention to the smaller details, but in order to stay ahead, we need to be loyal to our brands and to quality. The crystals that shine on the abaya are like the stars at night – like having the night sky on our back. That in itself is beautiful."
Abeer Al Suwaidi, UAE
An Emirati designer based in Dubai, Abeer Al Suwaidi's goal is to transform the traditional abaya into a contemporary form of art, while maintaining respect for her culture. After gaining a major in Communications Technology from Dubai Women's College, Al Suwaidi began designing for a few friends because they couldn't find anything original. "I couldn't find my identity," she explains. "I wanted to show people you can do a lot more with a boring black fabric."
In 2009, she founded USH, the first multiple-brand abaya store in the UAE, to promote homegrown talent, and it currently showcases the work of more than 40 local and regional designers. "I want the lady I design for to look powerful and courageous. That is important to me. With my design with Swarovski, I wanted to do something very different, to move away from the traditonal bling connotations. I wanted to push myself artistically and to think outside the box."
Sara Al Madani for Rouge Couture, UAE
Emirati entrepreneur and fashion designer Sara Al Madani has pushed boundaries since the outset with her range of unique abaya and jalabya designs that blend traditionalism with high fashion. "I am highly involved in the entire process from production to design," she says. "What sets me apart is attitude and style. We are edgy as well as being beautiful. Obviously, there is a line I can't cross – I don't want to damage the message within the abaya after all. As a nation we are often scared of showing our talents; it is a challenge but I follow an important code that I stick to: do not imitate, innovate."
Lubna Al Zakwani for Endemage, Oman
Endemage, meaning "the merging of two" was founded by two Omani sisters, who are passionate in their field. Lubna, who graduated from Esmod and is the creative director of the brand, and Nadia, who majored in business and is the managing director. They come from a fashion forward family- their mother and aunt own a local boutique in Muscat. Working around the ethos of 'East meets West,' the Omani sisters are dedicated to original and modern design and have shown their collections across Oman the UAE and Saudi Arabia, The brands creations are centralized around Arabian romanticism, their clothes etched with ancient Omani patterns and clever silhouettes.