What does it mean to belong to a city that may never belong to you? To live in a place built on transience, where presence feels conditional and time always borrowed? How do you hold on to identity when your life is shaped by visa renewals, shift work and long-distance calls home?
These are the questions posed – yet not always answered – by Metro Diaries, a resonant piece of devised theatre staged by 63Kolektib, a Filipino community theatre group based in Dubai.
The play had its debut in June at NYU Abu Dhabi, where every show sold out – a sign that audiences may be hungry for stories rooted in the UAE’s lived social reality, rather than imported spectacle. More performances are planned.
Told through a series of vignettes set figuratively aboard the Dubai Metro, the production offers a poetic portrait of the migrant condition: constant motion, silent observation and a city rushing past before you’ve had the chance to claim it.
There is no central plot – instead, Metro Diaries unfolds through monologues and movement sequences. We meet a man fighting anxious thoughts while commuting to his nine-to-five, residents shifting from one overcrowded apartment to another, and a stream of characters whose lives pass in and out of view like stations on a line. The minimal alley-style set invites immersion, but it’s the intimacy of the material that resonates.
Part of what gives Metro Diaries its urgency is its authorship – a play about migrants, written and performed by migrants. The script doesn’t feel observed; it feels lived. There’s an ease in the code-switching between English and Tagalog, in the cultural references left unexplained, in the subtle gestures that speak volumes to those who recognise them.
The second half of the play carries some of its most affecting moments. In one sequence, a dancer moves through a voiceover narrating the arc of a Filipino migrant’s journey – from leaving home, to job hunts and visa runs, to carving out space within the UAE’s fast-paced demands. Later, three women deliver overlapping monologues that reveal the quiet emotional tolls of survival: housing insecurity, tight budgets and the pressure to appear strong for family back home.
At times, the rawness of the performances tilts into melodrama, and certain lines articulate their themes a little too explicitly. These are minor stumbles – common in devised community work – and reflect the weight of lived experience pushing up against theatrical form. With tighter pacing and polish in future stagings, the show could achieve an even deeper impact without losing its authenticity.
While the production is grounded in the Filipino experience, its themes will resonate widely. The sense of impermanence – of building a life between legal frameworks and personal aspirations – is shared by many who live and work in the UAE.
That’s what makes Metro Diaries feel important beyond its two-day run. While large-scale international productions dominate the local theatre scene, this one proves there is both talent and appetite for home-grown stories. Its success suggests that audiences are ready – perhaps overdue – for theatre that speaks to life as it’s lived here.
The hope now is that more doors open, more lights stay on, and more stories – quiet, complex and true – find their way on to the stage and in to national conversation.
The President's Cake
Director: Hasan Hadi
Starring: Baneen Ahmad Nayyef, Waheed Thabet Khreibat, Sajad Mohamad Qasem
Rating: 4/5
FA Cup fifth round draw
Sheffield Wednesday v Manchester City
Reading/Cardiff City v Sheffield United
Chelsea v Shrewsbury Town/Liverpool
West Bromwich Albion v Newcastle United/Oxford United
Leicester City v Coventry City/Birmingham City
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Portsmouth v Arsenal
War
Director: Siddharth Anand
Cast: Hrithik Roshan, Tiger Shroff, Ashutosh Rana, Vaani Kapoor
Rating: Two out of five stars
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
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Captain Marvel
Director: Anna Boden, Ryan Fleck
Starring: Brie Larson, Samuel L Jackson, Jude Law, Ben Mendelsohn
4/5 stars
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The alternatives
• Founded in 2014, Telr is a payment aggregator and gateway with an office in Silicon Oasis. It’s e-commerce entry plan costs Dh349 monthly (plus VAT). QR codes direct customers to an online payment page and merchants can generate payments through messaging apps.
• Business Bay’s Pallapay claims 40,000-plus active merchants who can invoice customers and receive payment by card. Fees range from 1.99 per cent plus Dh1 per transaction depending on payment method and location, such as online or via UAE mobile.
• Tap started in May 2013 in Kuwait, allowing Middle East businesses to bill, accept, receive and make payments online “easier, faster and smoother” via goSell and goCollect. It supports more than 10,000 merchants. Monthly fees range from US$65-100, plus card charges of 2.75-3.75 per cent and Dh1.2 per sale.
• 2checkout’s “all-in-one payment gateway and merchant account” accepts payments in 200-plus markets for 2.4-3.9 per cent, plus a Dh1.2-Dh1.8 currency conversion charge. The US provider processes online shop and mobile transactions and has 17,000-plus active digital commerce users.
• PayPal is probably the best-known online goods payment method - usually used for eBay purchases - but can be used to receive funds, providing everyone’s signed up. Costs from 2.9 per cent plus Dh1.2 per transaction.