Paris Fashion Week 2012 day 3: grown-up glamour at Dior, Anne-Valérie Hash, Roland Mouret – and rainbows at Issey Miyake

Raf Simons’ ready-to-wear debut for Dior. Benoit Tessier / Reuters

The grown-up strength and confidence of the eighties power-dresser has returned in bucketloads in Paris – albeit in a more elegant, form-fitting style: this is about ethos, not shoulder-pads.

Roland Mouret’s packed-out show at the Hotel Westin introduced strong-shouldered double-breasted suits in bright red – perhaps a little too Working Girl – but continued his collection with graphic folds, panels and prints in dynamic diagonal and triangular shapes.

The cropped biker jackets in orange and cream, and the high-necked sleeveless monochrome blouses and dresses were particularly desirable.

Anne-Valérie Hash, too, sent out a collection that will please her self-assured clientele, in oyster, seafoam green, lime and black satin, iridescent organza and matt sequinned panels. Bold raglan coats, sharp tailoring and her trademark twists of fabric on trousers and dresses made this a vintage Hash collection.

Issey Miyake’s creative director Yoshiyuki Miyamae sent out a collection that was anything but tailored, with folded, floating and draped pieces defined by pattern rather than silhouette. From optical monochrome pleats at the start to a series of rainbow-coloured dresses at the end, it was a stirring and rather magical show.

Creations by Japanese designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae

Models show off creations by Japanese designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae as part of his collection for fashion house Issey Miyake at Paris Fashion Week. Gonzalo Fuentes / Reuters

And finally, the one we’ve all been waiting for: Raf Simons’ ready-to-wear debut at Dior. In a giant box divided into windowed rooms – a sort of Modernist version of the maison – his collection took the signatures of Dior (the full ball skirts, the Bar jacket, the A-line) and made them as modern and minimalist as the Jil Sander collections he used to design.

Yet from the very first sharp tuxedo suit, with its curvy jacket, through a series of reworked mini coat-dresses, filled with pleats and double pleats, to the far-from-minimalist cocktail minis, ruched and swagged into rococo explosions of metallic organza, luxury remained important, with silk-wool mixes, intricate tailoring, bejewelled eye make-up and positively blingy jewellery. This is an entirely different Dior to John Galliano’s or Bill Gaytten’s, and it feels just right.

For more information you can visit Mode à Paris

More from Paris

Day one: moody romanticism from Van Noten and Rochas Day two: Arora, Copping, Lanvin – a season to be contrary In pictures: Backstage at Viktor & Rolf Day four-five: power play at Jean Paul Gaultier, Loewe and Andrew Gn Day six: graphic Hermès, glamorous Giambattista Valli and the black and blues at Saint Laurent Day seven: clean energy charms at Chanel Picture special: Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Dior seen, and re-seen Final day: Elie Saab and Louis Vuitton shine as the curtain falls like the rain in Paris

The National’s fashion correspondent Gemma Champ will be writing every day from Paris Fashion Week. She has previously blogged from London Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week.