Critics perform a public service


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It's the question every motoring journalist dreads being asked and it's enough to make me tell strangers that I clean carpets for a living: "So, what's the best car you've ever driven?" Not a week goes by without some well-meaning inquisitor coming out with those words and I always give the same response, which is along the lines of: "That question's impossible to answer, but I was recently impressed by [insert name of whatever supercar I've just driven here]."

I suppose it's the same for a critic of anything you care to mention, from fashion and restaurants to music, films and books. What's the best song you've ever heard? Don't even go there. But the role of the critic is - and I'm not just saying this because I am one - actually important. We at Motoring get to drive many dozens of brand new cars every year and, through this experience, we form opinions and write about what we find so that you, our loyal readers, have an informed choice when it comes to choosing your next new car.

One of the most important lessons I learnt as a teenager, when it came to the opinions of critics, relates to pop music. In 1985 it seemed that everyone in the UK was buying an album called No Jacket Required by Phil Collins, but the weekly music magazine I relied on for reviews gave it a right kicking. I reasoned, in my naivety, that if so many copies were being sold it must be absolutely amazing, and the reviewer surely just got out of bed on the wrong side the morning he wrote about it.

So I went and spent my money on this CD. I listened to it, hated it, listened to it again, hated it even more and eventually traded it in for something by Bruce Springsteen. The masses and I obviously heard two very different things and I realised that, just because something is popular, it doesn't mean it's any good. And it's no different with cars.

I'm constantly astonished by how many dull, lacklustre models are bought by people more interested in keeping up with the neighbours than seeking out a car that's genuinely deserving of their money. And when we lambast these cars in reviews that are sometimes quite harsh, don't think we have an axe to grind because we don't like them. What we have is experience that tells us what makes a car worth buying.

Sometimes I'm accused of only giving positive reviews to sports or luxury cars and this is simply not true. While I unashamedly love the thrill only a sports car can offer, I have recently been astonished by how good cars such as Hyundais and Skodas are these days. And I'm not afraid to say so in print. But so many people will disregard a glowing review of something like this and plump for something inferior because they feel the family next door might sneer at them. So they instead get a car that's been thrown together because it's big, thirsty and covered with chrome trim. They simply don't care if a car is good or bad, as long as it scares people half to death on the outside lane of Sheikh Zayed Road - or it comes with a fancy name on the boot.

But we'll soldier on regardless, telling you how it is. We upset manufacturers and make them happy in equal measure by what we write, but if it wasn't for critics keeping these guys on their toes, I shudder to think what new cars would be like. You may not agree with what we say (it is, after all, just an opinion) but you can't say we don't know what we're talking about. We do, and we're looking out for you.

Don't mention it - it's our pleasure.

SPECS
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The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre twin-turbo flat-six

Power: 480hp at 6,500rpm

Torque: 570Nm from 2,300-5,000rpm

Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch auto

Fuel consumption: 10.4L/100km

Price: from Dh547,600

On sale: now 

Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

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What is Folia?

Prince Khaled bin Alwaleed bin Talal's new plant-based menu will launch at Four Seasons hotels in Dubai this November. A desire to cater to people looking for clean, healthy meals beyond green salad is what inspired Prince Khaled and American celebrity chef Matthew Kenney to create Folia. The word means "from the leaves" in Latin, and the exclusive menu offers fine plant-based cuisine across Four Seasons properties in Los Angeles, Bahrain and, soon, Dubai.

Kenney specialises in vegan cuisine and is the founder of Plant Food Wine and 20 other restaurants worldwide. "I’ve always appreciated Matthew’s work," says the Saudi royal. "He has a singular culinary talent and his approach to plant-based dining is prescient and unrivalled. I was a fan of his long before we established our professional relationship."

Folia first launched at The Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills in July 2018. It is available at the poolside Cabana Restaurant and for in-room dining across the property, as well as in its private event space. The food is vibrant and colourful, full of fresh dishes such as the hearts of palm ceviche with California fruit, vegetables and edible flowers; green hearb tacos filled with roasted squash and king oyster barbacoa; and a savoury coconut cream pie with macadamia crust.

In March 2019, the Folia menu reached Gulf shores, as it was introduced at the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, where it is served at the Bay View Lounge. Next, on Tuesday, November 1 – also known as World Vegan Day – it will come to the UAE, to the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach and the Four Seasons DIFC, both properties Prince Khaled has spent "considerable time at and love". 

There are also plans to take Folia to several more locations throughout the Middle East and Europe.

While health-conscious diners will be attracted to the concept, Prince Khaled is careful to stress Folia is "not meant for a specific subset of customers. It is meant for everyone who wants a culinary experience without the negative impact that eating out so often comes with."

THE SPECS

Engine: 6.0-litre, twin-turbocharged W12

Transmission: eight-speed automatic

Power: 626bhp

Torque: 900Nm

Price: Dh1,050,000

On sale: now

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Lexus LX700h specs

Engine: 3.4-litre twin-turbo V6 plus supplementary electric motor

Power: 464hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 790Nm from 2,000-3,600rpm

Transmission: 10-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 11.7L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh590,000