Inside London's oldest fish and chip shop


Marwa Hassan
  • English
  • Arabic

In the bustling heart of the city, nestled among the modern shops of Covent Garden, is the Rock and Sole Plaice, London's oldest fish and chip shop.

The National visited the shop and sat down with its dedicated owner, Ali Ziyaeddin, who is deeply intertwined with its storied past.

The shop – located in Endell street – was founded during the Industrial Revolution in 1871, its wooden doors bearing witness to times of peace and turmoil, prosperity and scarcity, including relentless bombings during the Second World War.

Amid the chaos, the shop, though struck, was never defeated.

The shop changed hands from a Jewish family to the Italian Ferrini sisters – Anna and Rachael – who later Anglicised their name. The shop was reopened in 1950 as The Negris Fish Bar.

The Ferrini sisters played an instrumental role in the shop’s survival, passing down their unique frying techniques, refined through generations, to the present owners.

In 1974, the shop was bought by two local men, Peter and Howard, who changed the name to the now famous Rock And Sole Plaice.

The current owners, in possession since the 1980s, share this dedication to maintaining the shop's historical spirit.

The Rock and Sole Plaice fish and chip shop. Amy McConaghy / The National
The Rock and Sole Plaice fish and chip shop. Amy McConaghy / The National

Mr Ziyaeddin, the owner, started as a potato washer and table clearer when he was only six years old.

He says that over the years, he learnt the nuances of the trade, understanding that no two pieces of fish are the same, and that the oil is as much a living ingredient as any other.

This historic shop also holds secrets from the war era.

It served as a meeting place for Spitfire squad leaders and was the hub where rationing of fish and potatoes was organised during the Blitz, feeding those who had lost their homes.

It is also known to have played host to notable figures from ex-presidents to top chefs, including Alain Ducasse, who has 23 Michelin stars to his name.

Yet the owner's humble philosophy remains unchanged: everyone, no matter their stature, deserves the same quality of meal.

Through all its changes, the shop has retained its character and charm, standing as a monument to history while feeding the souls of Londoners.

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Rating: 4 stars

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Key figures in the life of the fort

Sheikh Dhiyab bin Isa (ruled 1761-1793) Built Qasr Al Hosn as a watchtower to guard over the only freshwater well on Abu Dhabi island.

Sheikh Shakhbut bin Dhiyab (ruled 1793-1816) Expanded the tower into a small fort and transferred his ruling place of residence from Liwa Oasis to the fort on the island.

Sheikh Tahnoon bin Shakhbut (ruled 1818-1833) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further as Abu Dhabi grew from a small village of palm huts to a town of more than 5,000 inhabitants.

Sheikh Khalifa bin Shakhbut (ruled 1833-1845) Repaired and fortified the fort.

Sheikh Saeed bin Tahnoon (ruled 1845-1855) Turned Qasr Al Hosn into a strong two-storied structure.

Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa (ruled 1855-1909) Expanded Qasr Al Hosn further to reflect the emirate's increasing prominence.

Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan (ruled 1928-1966) Renovated and enlarged Qasr Al Hosn, adding a decorative arch and two new villas.

Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan (ruled 1966-2004) Moved the royal residence to Al Manhal palace and kept his diwan at Qasr Al Hosn.

Sources: Jayanti Maitra, www.adach.ae

The bio

Favourite vegetable: Broccoli

Favourite food: Seafood

Favourite thing to cook: Duck l'orange

Favourite book: Give and Take by Adam Grant, one of his professors at University of Pennsylvania

Favourite place to travel: Home in Kuwait.

Favourite place in the UAE: Al Qudra lakes

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If you go...

Etihad Airways flies from Abu Dhabi to Kuala Lumpur, from about Dh3,600. Air Asia currently flies from Kuala Lumpur to Terengganu, with Berjaya Hotels & Resorts planning to launch direct chartered flights to Redang Island in the near future. Rooms at The Taaras Beach and Spa Resort start from 680RM (Dh597).

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Started: December 2011
Co-founders: Elie Habib, Eddy Maroun
Based: Beirut and Dubai
Sector: Entertainment
Size: 85 employees
Stage: Series C
Investors: MEVP, du, Mobily, MBC, Samena Capital

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Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi

Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah

Rating: 4/5

Updated: October 05, 2023, 12:39 PM