• Warplanes attack the village of Al Bara in southern Idlib on March 5, 2020, a day before a ceasefire went into effect in the province. AFP
    Warplanes attack the village of Al Bara in southern Idlib on March 5, 2020, a day before a ceasefire went into effect in the province. AFP
  • Destroyed buildings in Al Nayrab village, about 14 kilometres south-east of Idlib city. The city and its surroundings have suffered furious bombardment by Syrian forces and Russian jets since since December 2019. AFP
    Destroyed buildings in Al Nayrab village, about 14 kilometres south-east of Idlib city. The city and its surroundings have suffered furious bombardment by Syrian forces and Russian jets since since December 2019. AFP
  • Malek Haj Khalil stands on the rubble of his home in Sarmin, about 8 kilometres south-east of Idlib city. AFP
    Malek Haj Khalil stands on the rubble of his home in Sarmin, about 8 kilometres south-east of Idlib city. AFP
  • Syrians ride their motorcycles through a damaged neighbourhood in the town of Binnish in Idlib province. AFP
    Syrians ride their motorcycles through a damaged neighbourhood in the town of Binnish in Idlib province. AFP
  • A boy rides his bicycle past damaged buildings in Idlib city. AFP
    A boy rides his bicycle past damaged buildings in Idlib city. AFP
  • A boy watches as a man paints a mural on the roof of a collapsed building in Binnish to commemorate the ninth anniversary of the Syrian war. AFP
    A boy watches as a man paints a mural on the roof of a collapsed building in Binnish to commemorate the ninth anniversary of the Syrian war. AFP
  • The mural shows a dove holding an olive branch in its beak flying over a Syrian opposition flag in the shape of the Arabic numeral 9, with the word 'years' below. AFP
    The mural shows a dove holding an olive branch in its beak flying over a Syrian opposition flag in the shape of the Arabic numeral 9, with the word 'years' below. AFP
  • A mural on the wall of a destroyed school in Sarmin. The slogan refers to the Syrian government considering all rebels terrorists. AFP
    A mural on the wall of a destroyed school in Sarmin. The slogan refers to the Syrian government considering all rebels terrorists. AFP
  • Like other towns in Idlib, Afis has sustained widespread destruction due to heavy fighting and air strikes. AFP
    Like other towns in Idlib, Afis has sustained widespread destruction due to heavy fighting and air strikes. AFP
  • A destroyed house in the village of Al Mastuma, about 7 kilometres south of Idlib city. AFP
    A destroyed house in the village of Al Mastuma, about 7 kilometres south of Idlib city. AFP
  • A man walks through a destroyed neighbourhood in Al Mastuma. AFP
    A man walks through a destroyed neighbourhood in Al Mastuma. AFP

Syrian war: battered Idlib pays price for provoking Assad family


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At the heart of Syria’s latest humanitarian crisis, locals call Idlib “the forgotten city”, still paying the price for one day in the 1970s when the former president was pelted with tomatoes.

The city and its surroundings have suffered furious bombardment by Syrian forces and Russian jets since December, leaving hundreds dead and forcing huge numbers to flee towards the Turkish border.

With a tentative ceasefire announced on March 6, villager Malek Haj Khalil returned to his home in Sarmin, slightly east of Idlib, hoping to recover a few belongings from the ruins of his house.

But he found nothing beyond an air-conditioning unit and a few broken pans among the twisted iron bars that were once his home.

“We were hoping to find a few things, some furniture or blankets, but there is nothing,” he said.

Some neighbours had more success, and were loading gas cookers, mattresses and sofas on to trucks.

“When the army came, it poured out all the hatred it has against us ... targeting civilians and their houses,” Mr Khalil said.

The regime acts as though the inhabitants of the Idlib are not really Syrians.

Idlib was one of the first provinces to join the uprising against President Bashar Al Assad, and is now the last to remain in rebel hands, but the roots of that “hatred” predate the revolution in 2011.

Tucked in the north-west of the country, Idlib’s residents have long felt overlooked by their rulers in Damascus.

Locals and researchers particularly recall the time in the early 1970s when Hafez Al Assad, Bashar’s father who ruled from 1971 until his death in 2000, made his first and only visit to Idlib. An angry crowd pelted him with tomatoes and a shoe.

“After that incident, Hafez Al Assad never returned to the city. It has since been cut off, and that shows in the quality of its infrastructure and schools,” said Mohammad Sarmini, head of Syrian research centre Jusoor in Istanbul.

“It was this marginalisation that pushed Idlib to join the revolution.”

Taleb Al Dugheim, a specialist in Syrian history, said the slight against Assad senior in Idlib “was never forgotten, and transformed into repression and marginalisation” that continued under his son.

The regime also remembers Idlib’s role in the protests of the 1980s, Mr Dugheim said, when many supported a Muslim Brotherhood uprising in the city of Hama that was brutally suppressed.

Asaad Falaha knows the hatred well. He leads a charity running a primary school in Binnish, east of Idlib city, that the regime has bombed three times during the recent offensive.

“Seventy per cent of it has been destroyed. To target a school like this shows the hatred of the regime,” he said.

The province shelters three million people – half of them displaced from other regions – and is partially run by Turkey-backed armed groups and a former Al Qaeda affiliate, Hayat Tahrir Al Sham (HTS).

Syria’s president has taken a close interest in the battle to retake it.

“When Bashar Al Assad visited the town of Al Habit in Idlib province in October, he personally supervised artillery shelling against Maaret Al Numan,” Mr Dugheim said.

“The regime acts as though the inhabitants of the Idlib are not really Syrians.”

Mr Al Assad’s forces retook the town of Kafranbel in the south of the province in February. It was one of the last standing symbols of the revolution, full of darkly ironic slogans against the regime.

That spirit still shows flickers of life further north in the province: on a badly damaged school in Binnish, someone has written advice for protecting against the coronavirus, with Mr Al Assad depicted as the virus.

On the wall of a gutted-out classroom, someone has offered a history lesson: “Date: the era of dictators. Course: revolution. Lesson: death.”

  • Smoke billows following air strikes on a rebel-held area in the southern city of Daraa on March 16, 2017. AFP
    Smoke billows following air strikes on a rebel-held area in the southern city of Daraa on March 16, 2017. AFP
  • Syrian army soldiers fire their weapons during a battle with rebel fighters at the Ramouseh front line, east of Aleppo, on December 5, 2016. AP Photo
    Syrian army soldiers fire their weapons during a battle with rebel fighters at the Ramouseh front line, east of Aleppo, on December 5, 2016. AP Photo
  • Russians, Syrians and others gather next to an American military convoy stuck in the village of Khirbet Ammu, east of Qamishli city, on February 12, 2020. AP Photo
    Russians, Syrians and others gather next to an American military convoy stuck in the village of Khirbet Ammu, east of Qamishli city, on February 12, 2020. AP Photo
  • A Russian soldier mans a machine gun during a patrol near the Syrian and Turkish border in north Syria on October 25, 2019. AP Photo
    A Russian soldier mans a machine gun during a patrol near the Syrian and Turkish border in north Syria on October 25, 2019. AP Photo
  • Turkish tanks and troops stationed near Syrian town of Manbij. AP
    Turkish tanks and troops stationed near Syrian town of Manbij. AP
  • Crew of Bradley fighting vehicles stand at a US military base in north-eastern Syria on November 11, 2019. AP Photo
    Crew of Bradley fighting vehicles stand at a US military base in north-eastern Syria on November 11, 2019. AP Photo
  • Anti-government protesters flash victory signs as they protest in the southern Syrian city of Daraa on March 23, 2011. AP Photo
    Anti-government protesters flash victory signs as they protest in the southern Syrian city of Daraa on March 23, 2011. AP Photo
  • Syrians climb up a mud bank as they flee across fields to reach the Syrian-Turkish border on March 10, 2014. AFP
    Syrians climb up a mud bank as they flee across fields to reach the Syrian-Turkish border on March 10, 2014. AFP
  • Syrian men gather outside the courthouse in Daraa that was torched a day earlier by angry protesters on March 21, 2011. AFP
    Syrian men gather outside the courthouse in Daraa that was torched a day earlier by angry protesters on March 21, 2011. AFP
  • Rebel fighters inside a building during clashes with pro-government forces in the Sheikh Al Said neighbourhood of Aleppo city on November 28, 2013. AFP
    Rebel fighters inside a building during clashes with pro-government forces in the Sheikh Al Said neighbourhood of Aleppo city on November 28, 2013. AFP
  • Syrians bury victims in a group funeral following air strikes in the rebel-held city of Douma on January 7, 2016. AFP
    Syrians bury victims in a group funeral following air strikes in the rebel-held city of Douma on January 7, 2016. AFP
  • A man reacts to the destruction of his home in an air strike by government forces on the northern Syrian city of Aleppo on February 22, 2014. AFP
    A man reacts to the destruction of his home in an air strike by government forces on the northern Syrian city of Aleppo on February 22, 2014. AFP
  • A woman is helped through the rubble of buildings hit by a reported Syrian government air strike in Al Sakhour district of Aleppo city on April 4, 2014. AFP
    A woman is helped through the rubble of buildings hit by a reported Syrian government air strike in Al Sakhour district of Aleppo city on April 4, 2014. AFP
  • Debris fills a street and flames rise from a building following an air strike by Syrian government forces in the Sukkari neighborhood of Aleppo on March 7, 2014. AFP
    Debris fills a street and flames rise from a building following an air strike by Syrian government forces in the Sukkari neighborhood of Aleppo on March 7, 2014. AFP
  • A man is comforted following an air strike by government forces that killed a rescue worker in Aleppo city on March 9, 2014. AFP
    A man is comforted following an air strike by government forces that killed a rescue worker in Aleppo city on March 9, 2014. AFP
  • A tank seized by rebel fighters fires at a pro-government position near the Syrian city of Hama on February 19, 2014. AFP
    A tank seized by rebel fighters fires at a pro-government position near the Syrian city of Hama on February 19, 2014. AFP
  • An injured Syrian youth cries as he is carried on a gurney following an air strike in the Maadi neighbourhood of Aleppo city on December 17, 2013. AFP
    An injured Syrian youth cries as he is carried on a gurney following an air strike in the Maadi neighbourhood of Aleppo city on December 17, 2013. AFP
  • A Syrian boy holds an oxygen mask to an infant's face following a reported gas attack in Douma on January 22, 2018, when the town near Damascus was held by rebels. AFP
    A Syrian boy holds an oxygen mask to an infant's face following a reported gas attack in Douma on January 22, 2018, when the town near Damascus was held by rebels. AFP
  • Displaced Syrians wait to enter Turkey from Idlib province across the Orontes river on February 5, 2014. AFP
    Displaced Syrians wait to enter Turkey from Idlib province across the Orontes river on February 5, 2014. AFP