Like many Filipinos, I grew up eating adobo a lot.
For one, it's easier to make than other dishes. Its ingredients consist of pantry foods that are almost always available in Filipino households: vinegar, soy sauce, garlic and chicken or pork.
Once you have those main components, you are good to go.
What really fascinates me about the dish is its infinite iterations. If you're asking, my favourite adobo is infused with coconut milk.
The Philippines is celebrating its 125th Independence Day on Monday – but as someone who lives overseas and enjoys writing about food, the occasion is making me confront an embarrassing reality: whenever non-Filipinos ask me to describe our cuisine, I find myself in a haze.
Maybe it isn't just me. Although adobo is as straightforward as it comes, Filipino cuisine packs a complex history, which combines pre-colonial influences with centuries of foreign rule, from Spain to Japan.
The Philippines is also an archipelagic country of more than 7,000 islands, home to hundreds of distinct communities who each speak different languages and are exposed to varying geographic environments.
This combination makes it impossible to generalise the Filipino palate, and any attempt to do so is met with overwhelming scepticism.
The late Filipino food scholar Doreen Gamboa Fernandez, who was highly regarded for bringing the cuisine to the fore through her writing, offers one of the best descriptions of the way the cuisine has been shaped over the years.
In her 1988 journal article, Culture Ingested: Notes on the Indigenisation of Philippine Food, she said Filipinos have been used to “indigenising” foreign food, eventually turning them into Filipino staples.
“The process seems to start with a foreign dish in its original form, brought in by foreigners," Fernandez wrote.
"It is then taught to a native cook, who naturally adapts it to the tastes he knows and the ingredients he can get.
“Eventually, he improvises on it, thus creating a new dish that, in time, becomes so entrenched in cuisine and lifestyle that its origins are practically forgotten.”
A lot of the popular Filipino dishes are, in one way or another, derived from this process, including adobo, which has Hispanic influences. Another example is the stir-fried noodle dish pancit, which we got from the Chinese.
Aside from these obvious cultural influences, Filipino cuisine is also shaped by the ingredients that are available locally, which vary from region to region.
To further complicate the matter, one of the Philippines' biggest exports is its people.
The Filipino diaspora consists of more than 10 million migrants scattered around the world, with many living and working in the Middle East, myself included.
We take what we know from our kitchens back home to wherever we go, recreate our favourite childhood dishes with ingredients that we find in Asian supermarkets around the world, and hope that, at the very least, they conjure the right amount of nostalgia.
Our history, geographic and ethnic make-up, as well as daily experiences, may be the perfect recipe for cuisine confusion but they are also what makes our food truly remarkable.
Of the several major Filipino dishes – the tangy sinigang, the soothing tinola and the hearty caldereta – for me, adobo best captures our complex relationship with food.
Ask any Filipino to describe the dish and they will give varying versions, but the basic components remain the same.
Some people like their adobo dry, which involves ingredient adjustments or different cooking methods, and others like theirs saucy.
Remove the soy sauce, replace it with salt and you get adobong puti, or white adobo.
Then add a cup of coconut milk and you get adobo sa gata, a creamier version of the dish that features prominent fruity notes.
Replace the meat with squid and you get adobong pusit, where the sauce is blackened by pouring the ink into the stew.
Take out the meat altogether and use water spinach, then you get adobong kangkong, a vegetarian-friendly version.
Some people add a good amount of sugar to make the dish sweet. Others add red or green chillies to make it hot. Then there are people who prefer adding potatoes or hard-boiled eggs, or both.
From small ingredient adjustments to major alterations, the dish is still an adobo, and every Filipino respects these changes, wherever they come from and whatever version they are used to eating.
For me, the essence of Filipino cuisine is best represented by this very mixing and matching. In fact, not just our cuisine, but our culture in general.
For years, we have done whatever we could to really define who we are as a people, and it's been challenging to say the least, as we continue to carry the harrowing baggage of colonialism.
But just like a bowl of adobo, we thrive in our ability to adapt.
This Philippine Independence Day, I will make my favourite version of the dish and find comfort in the fact that Filipino cuisine is indescribable.
The Birkin bag is made by Hermès.
It is named after actress and singer Jane Birkin
Noone from Hermès will go on record to say how much a new Birkin costs, how long one would have to wait to get one, and how many bags are actually made each year.
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Gertrude Bell's life in focus
A feature film
At one point, two feature films were in the works, but only German director Werner Herzog’s project starring Nicole Kidman would be made. While there were high hopes he would do a worthy job of directing the biopic, when Queen of the Desert arrived in 2015 it was a disappointment. Critics panned the film, in which Herzog largely glossed over Bell’s political work in favour of her ill-fated romances.
A documentary
A project that did do justice to Bell arrived the next year: Sabine Krayenbuhl and Zeva Oelbaum’s Letters from Baghdad: The Extraordinary Life and Times of Gertrude Bell. Drawing on more than 1,000 pieces of archival footage, 1,700 documents and 1,600 letters, the filmmakers painstakingly pieced together a compelling narrative that managed to convey both the depth of Bell’s experience and her tortured love life.
Books, letters and archives
Two biographies have been written about Bell, and both are worth reading: Georgina Howell’s 2006 book Queen of the Desert and Janet Wallach’s 1996 effort Desert Queen. Bell published several books documenting her travels and there are also several volumes of her letters, although they are hard to find in print. Original documents are housed at the Gertrude Bell Archive at the University of Newcastle, which has an online catalogue.
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
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