• Al Sila lies 350km west of Abu Dhabi, in Al Dhafra. All photos: Khushnum Bhandari / The National
    Al Sila lies 350km west of Abu Dhabi, in Al Dhafra. All photos: Khushnum Bhandari / The National
  • A new cycling and walking track is under construction around Al Sila park
    A new cycling and walking track is under construction around Al Sila park
  • The entrance to Al Sila park
    The entrance to Al Sila park
  • Some of the homes in the coastal town
    Some of the homes in the coastal town
  • Barakah Nuclear Power Plant also lies in the western region of Abu Dhabi emirate
    Barakah Nuclear Power Plant also lies in the western region of Abu Dhabi emirate
  • Al Sila Camel Race Track
    Al Sila Camel Race Track
  • Marjan Khan is co-owner of Al Gharbeya Furnishings and Spreads Shop, in Al Sila
    Marjan Khan is co-owner of Al Gharbeya Furnishings and Spreads Shop, in Al Sila
  • Al Sila beach is a popular spot for residents to visit
    Al Sila beach is a popular spot for residents to visit

A journey into the desert (and the past) to the hidden gem of Al Sila


Anjana Sankar
  • English
  • Arabic

Nestled in the rolling dunes of the Arabian Desert lies the town of Al Sila, a hidden gem 350km west of Abu Dhabi in Al Dhafra.

Insulated from the hustle and bustle of city life, it feels as if time slows down when you are in Al Sila.

For tourists eager to experience life in the western region of Abu Dhabi that borders Saudi Arabia, the town offers an interesting mix of heritage, culture and a rustic way of life.

The vast stretches of the desert make it a perfect place for camping, with spots in and around Al Sila where you can pitch tents and enjoy the tranquillity of the desert under the night sky.

Not far from the town centre is one of the most prized heritage assets of Al Sila — a 200-year-old Ghaf tree. Locals call it the "Shabhana tree".

“This is the most famous landmark in Sila. The late Sheikh Zayed used to visit it often, and it is an important part of our heritage,” said an Emirati man who drove us to the spot.

Considered one of the oldest and the largest such trees, it stands in the middle of a lush and gated 300-hectare forest.

Access is denied to the public and visitors can catch only a glimpse of the tree that towers over the surrounding foliage. But only from a distance.

A caretaker leads camels through the desert at Madinat Zayed, in Abu Dhabi's Al Dhafra region. Khushnum Bhandari / The National
A caretaker leads camels through the desert at Madinat Zayed, in Abu Dhabi's Al Dhafra region. Khushnum Bhandari / The National

A visit to Al Sila is incomplete without going to the camel races.

Camel rearing and racing are an integral part of the Bedouin culture in Abu Dhabi, and Al Sila is one of the most famous camel racing destinations in the western region.

Taha, a caretaker at the camel racetrack, said about 200 camel owners gather daily at the track for practice sessions.

“During the season, the tracks get really busy as camels from different parts of Abu Dhabi, and even from neighbouring Saudi Arabia, come to take part in races,” he said.

Population of 8,000

But during Ramadan, the town appears deserted and its small community of about 8,000 people mostly stays indoors.

As is the case with any other part of the UAE, Al Sila’s population is a mix of Emiratis and foreign residents.

Most non-Emiratis are employed in supermarkets and shops, and also the oil refinery in Ruwais, about 80km away.

Ruwais, Madinat Zayed, Liwa, Mirfa and Ghayathi, as well as Delma Island, are other neighbouring towns.

Marjan Khan, a Pakistani resident of Al Sila for the past 14 years, says the town has undergone a facelift since he came.

“I came to Al Sila in 2009. There were no big houses or these shiny buildings. The main streets were tarred but just two lanes,” Mr Khan, who runs Al Gharbeya Furnishings and Spreads, told The National.

He said his father, Yaar Mohammed, who opened the shop, died in 2014, leaving the business to him.

“Since Covid, business is dull. I am struggling to make ends meet. I hardly have any customers these days,” he said.

In one part of the town, a cluster of modern two-storey houses dots the area.

A municipality officer who did not want to be quoted said many new projects had come up recently.

“We are building amenities to add to the quality of life in Al Sila. There is a private ladies' beach, which is very popular,” he said.

The beach for women stretches over 18.3km and the area has restaurants, shops, swimming pools and basketball courts.

A new hospital, a school, a police station and shops have also been built.

A new cycling and running track is being built that will stretch from the town's centre to the public beach.

“Once completed, the running and cycling track will help residents enjoy the outdoors and encourage them to lead a healthy lifestyle,” the officer said.

Al Sila public park is a sprawling green space in the heart of the town centre and is a popular, family-friendly spot.

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

COMPANY PROFILE

Name: Xpanceo

Started: 2018

Founders: Roman Axelrod, Valentyn Volkov

Based: Dubai, UAE

Industry: Smart contact lenses, augmented/virtual reality

Funding: $40 million

Investor: Opportunity Venture (Asia)

Avatar: Fire and Ash

Director: James Cameron

Starring: Sam Worthington, Sigourney Weaver, Zoe Saldana

Rating: 4.5/5

RESULT

Arsenal 0 Chelsea 3
Chelsea: Willian (40'), Batshuayi (42', 49')

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Infiniti QX80 specs

Engine: twin-turbocharged 3.5-liter V6

Power: 450hp

Torque: 700Nm

Price: From Dh450,000, Autograph model from Dh510,000

Available: Now

What vitamins do we know are beneficial for living in the UAE

Vitamin D: Highly relevant in the UAE due to limited sun exposure; supports bone health, immunity and mood.Vitamin B12: Important for nerve health and energy production, especially for vegetarians, vegans and individuals with absorption issues.Iron: Useful only when deficiency or anaemia is confirmed; helps reduce fatigue and support immunity.Omega-3 (EPA/DHA): Supports heart health and reduces inflammation, especially for those who consume little fish.

The biog

Name: Dhabia Khalifa AlQubaisi

Age: 23

How she spends spare time: Playing with cats at the clinic and feeding them

Inspiration: My father. He’s a hard working man who has been through a lot to provide us with everything we need

Favourite book: Attitude, emotions and the psychology of cats by Dr Nicholes Dodman

Favourit film: 101 Dalmatians - it remind me of my childhood and began my love of dogs 

Word of advice: By being patient, good things will come and by staying positive you’ll have the will to continue to love what you're doing

UAE tour of the Netherlands

UAE squad: Rohan Mustafa (captain), Shaiman Anwar, Ghulam Shabber, Mohammed Qasim, Rameez Shahzad, Mohammed Usman, Adnan Mufti, Chirag Suri, Ahmed Raza, Imran Haider, Mohammed Naveed, Amjad Javed, Zahoor Khan, Qadeer Ahmed

Fixtures: Monday, first 50-over match; Wednesday, second 50-over match; Thursday, third 50-over match

How much do leading UAE’s UK curriculum schools charge for Year 6?
  1. Nord Anglia International School (Dubai) – Dh85,032
  2. Kings School Al Barsha (Dubai) – Dh71,905
  3. Brighton College Abu Dhabi - Dh68,560
  4. Jumeirah English Speaking School (Dubai) – Dh59,728
  5. Gems Wellington International School – Dubai Branch – Dh58,488
  6. The British School Al Khubairat (Abu Dhabi) - Dh54,170
  7. Dubai English Speaking School – Dh51,269

*Annual tuition fees covering the 2024/2025 academic year

HIJRA

Starring: Lamar Faden, Khairiah Nathmy, Nawaf Al-Dhufairy

Director: Shahad Ameen

Rating: 3/5

Bareilly Ki Barfi
Directed by: Ashwiny Iyer Tiwari
Starring: Kriti Sanon, Ayushmann Khurrana, Rajkummar Rao
Three and a half stars

Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
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Company%C2%A0profile
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Profile

Company: Justmop.com

Date started: December 2015

Founders: Kerem Kuyucu and Cagatay Ozcan

Sector: Technology and home services

Based: Jumeirah Lake Towers, Dubai

Size: 55 employees and 100,000 cleaning requests a month

Funding:  The company’s investors include Collective Spark, Faith Capital Holding, Oak Capital, VentureFriends, and 500 Startups. 

The Meg
Director: Jon Turteltaub
Starring:   
Two stars

Desert Warrior

Starring: Anthony Mackie, Aiysha Hart, Ben Kingsley

Director: Rupert Wyatt

Rating: 3/5

WHAT IS A BLACK HOLE?

1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull

2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight

3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge

4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own

5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed

Updated: April 14, 2023, 6:00 PM