Athens' famed Acropolis. Courtesy John Kalogiannis
Athens' famed Acropolis. Courtesy John Kalogiannis
Athens' famed Acropolis. Courtesy John Kalogiannis
Athens' famed Acropolis. Courtesy John Kalogiannis

From Plaka to Kifisia: the best places to stay in Athens


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After a strict six-month lockdown, Greece opens its doors to tourists.

In addition, the country has established a safe travel corridor with the UAE that allows fully vaccinated travellers to move freely between the two countries. Under the agreement, passengers holding vaccination certificates can now travel to Greece without having to quarantine on arrival. From May 18, the same rule will apply for travellers flying from Greece to the UAE.

While most tourists will be hot-footing it to the islands, Athens – close to the port of Piraeus – is currently abuzz with energy, following a winter in which all bars, restaurants and cafes remained closed, so it is well worth lingering in the city for a few days.

Where to stay in Athens?

Athens is sprawling and hotels are dotted across the valley that the city inhabits – you can opt for views of the Acropolis, proximity to the city's hipster neighbourhoods or, if you prefer, take a bit of a breather from the summer heat in the northern and coastal suburbs.

Plaka, Athens. Courtesy Despina Galani
Plaka, Athens. Courtesy Despina Galani

If you want to feel the pull of the city’s nightlife and prefer to stroll home after an intense meze, Monastiraki, Plaka and Syntagma are the spots to stay in, while those wanting an escape from the hum of the inner city might want to head to the suburbs.

In the north, the fancy Kifisia neighbourhood boasts Semiramis, an art hotel that's akin to a Wes Anderson set. Or, get some serious beach time by staying on the coastline towards Vouliagmeni. The options are seemingly endless, but here’s a few of our favourites in the white city.

For a cultural hub in the heart of Athens: Shila

One of the six suites at Shila. Courtesy Shila
One of the six suites at Shila. Courtesy Shila

A treat for the senses, "hotel particulier" Shila sits tucked into a pedestrianised street. Built in the 1920s as a private residence, Shila has only six suites, offering a taste of what it might have been like to have lived in Athens of old. Original details such as the terrazzo floor, sweeping staircases and impossibly high ceilings are a world away from the 1960s apartment blocks that now dominate downtown Athens.

Add to that thoughtful design flourishes in the form of dreamily draped textiles, custom-made industrial furniture and light fixtures (now also being sold from the hotel) and the works of local artists. With its roof-top bar and regular pop-up events, Shila is more than a boutique hotel, it serves as a cultural hub for the city’s artistic community.

Stay here for pause, reflection and tranquility in the heart of the capital. The garden suites are best for those wishing to immerse themselves in a spot of greenery.

For the best food: Ergon House

A self-professed foodie hotel, Ergon House is a five-minute stroll from the central square and houses of parliament at Syntagma. It offers its own restaurant and an organic deli stacked full of Greek produce.

Above the industrial-feeling "marketplace", with its open deli counter, olive tree centrepiece (a symbol of Greek hospitality) and vertical orchard of basil, rosemary and oregano, the hotel comprises four floors and 38 rooms. There’s also a kitchen for cooking up whatever you fancy from the deli and an olive tree-lined terrace with panoramic views to enjoy your lunch from.

Marrying old and new in this lofty neoclassical structure, the hotel's designers – made up of native architects, engineers and interior designers – have injected traditional Greek design into elegant and contemporary rooms. The Penteli marble sinks in each room are actually repurposed steps from old Athenian staircases, while the low beds with mattresses set onto an elevated section of floor nod to traditional village homes in which beds would be placed on a mezzanine to make room for an entire family.

For architectural clout: Hilton Athens Hotel

The exterior of the Hilton Athens Hotel. Courtesy Hilton
The exterior of the Hilton Athens Hotel. Courtesy Hilton

Arguably the most famous hotel in Athens, the Hilton, designed by famed Greek architect Emmanouil Vourekas, stands as a testament to the architecture and design boom that swept through the city in the 1960s.

It’s one of Athens’ first "high-rise" buildings and remains one of the city's tallest at 65 metres high. Hailed as the building that brought modernism to Athens, it takes on a V-shape and was crafted from Greece’s native Penteli marble. On either side of the hotel are works of art by Greek visual artist Yannis Moralis – symbols of Ancient Greece that act as a contrast to the otherwise modern structure. Head to the hotel’s Galaxy Bar on the roof for impressive views over the city and a chance to rub shoulders with Athens’ movers and shakers.

For the best Acropolis rooms: Perianth Hotel

Located in a square where locals pour out of kafeneons and bars well into the night, Perianth is a hotel with a strong design vision. Works from contemporary Greek artists can be found dotted around the hotel and the interior is composed around a main "avenue", with rooms set off side alleys to represent the layout of the city. The marble and velvet dotted dining room and lounge, along with the wellness centre, have been designed to represent neighbourhood squares – communal spaces to relax in with an iced coffee in hand.

The curved lines of the balconies that wrap themselves into Perianth’s original exterior are mirrored on the inside of the hotel with streamlined walls that curve into doors. Terrazzo floors lend each room a lightness and nod to classic Athenian apartments, while American walnut furniture and soft pink velvet fabrics add an element of luxury.

Our favourite room is the Perianth penthouse, which has its own pool and jacuzzi, and offers panoramic view of Athens. And if the heat of the city gets to be too much, you can always zone out in the Zen Centre, with yoga and meditation inspired by Socrates.

For time on the beach: Astir Palace

If a rooftop pool does not quite hit the spot when it comes to your sun-soaking needs, the Astir Palace hotel in the city's southern suburb of Vouliagmeni is a good bet. It's a 25-minute drive out of the city centre but the newly renovated hotel (another work of modernist architecture) is worth the taxi ride.

It’s Greece’s first Four Seasons hotel and offers a lux stay on its own beach, complete with a beach-side infinity pool for the best of both worlds. It's the ultimate spot for down-time after an archaeological tour of the city’s ancient Acropolis.

For proximity to the Acropolis and Ancient Agora: Inn Athens

Upon entering this boutique hotel, with its pretty neoclassical facade and grand atrium, you might expect a traditional Athenian townhouse accented with 19th-century artwork and antique furniture. In fact, clean, modernist lines and contemporary details welcome visitors in each of the rooms at Inn Athens. The subtle grey of the exterior's original doors is carried through into the colour palette of each of the 20 rooms, but that's about all that marries the outside with the fully renovated interior.

Linking tourist-trundled Plaka with the cool, calm interior of Inn Athens is a creamy marble arcade leading to a quiet courtyard. Breakfast is taken here, with the courtyard’s tables circling a lush, bitter orange tree, a world away from the traffic of central Athens. Inside, the rooms feature textured poured concrete walls and beds set on marble slabs for a contrast of industrial and classic materials.

The hotel adds a contemporary edge to Plaka's otherwise traditional architecture and it is conveniently located between the ancient ruins of the Acropolis and the Olympian Temple of Zeus. We'd plump for a deluxe room offering a view of Inn Athens' best asset, its ultra zen courtyard.

For something a little less traditional: Semiramis

Semiramis stands out in acid pinks and fluorescent tones. Courtesy Semiramis
Semiramis stands out in acid pinks and fluorescent tones. Courtesy Semiramis

Deviating from the traditional washed-out-whites and sea blues of Greece, Semiramis pops with acid pinks and fluorescent tones. Yes! Hotels group isn’t one to bend to tradition and this hotel in Athens’ northern suburbs is no exception.

Its candy-coloured palette and sci-fi touches (we love the futuristic Do Not Disturb messages that you can programme yourself to flash from the floor outside your room) are a reflection of owner Dakis Joannou’s bold art collection. Joannou is one of Greece’s most prolific contemporary art collectors and his hotels benefit from the irreverent works in his collection. Semiramis hosts regular art exhibitions from the hotel and works by artists such as Jeff Koons, Tim Noble and Sue Webster hang from the halls and foyer. Stay here to experience life in Athens’ leafy northern suburbs as well as the best sushi in the city.

World record transfers

1. Kylian Mbappe - to Real Madrid in 2017/18 - €180 million (Dh770.4m - if a deal goes through)
2. Paul Pogba - to Manchester United in 2016/17 - €105m
3. Gareth Bale - to Real Madrid in 2013/14 - €101m
4. Cristiano Ronaldo - to Real Madrid in 2009/10 - €94m
5. Gonzalo Higuain - to Juventus in 2016/17 - €90m
6. Neymar - to Barcelona in 2013/14 - €88.2m
7. Romelu Lukaku - to Manchester United in 2017/18 - €84.7m
8. Luis Suarez - to Barcelona in 2014/15 - €81.72m
9. Angel di Maria - to Manchester United in 2014/15 - €75m
10. James Rodriguez - to Real Madrid in 2014/15 - €75m

if you go

The flights

Air Astana flies direct from Dubai to Almaty from Dh2,440 per person return, and to Astana (via Almaty) from Dh2,930 return, both including taxes. 

The hotels

Rooms at the Ritz-Carlton Almaty cost from Dh1,944 per night including taxes; and in Astana the new Ritz-Carlton Astana (www.marriott) costs from Dh1,325; alternatively, the new St Regis Astana costs from Dh1,458 per night including taxes. 

When to visit

March-May and September-November

Visas

Citizens of many countries, including the UAE do not need a visa to enter Kazakhstan for up to 30 days. Contact the nearest Kazakhstan embassy or consulate.

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Which honey takes your fancy?

Al Ghaf Honey

The Al Ghaf tree is a local desert tree which bears the harsh summers with drought and high temperatures. From the rich flowers, bees that pollinate this tree can produce delicious red colour honey in June and July each year

Sidr Honey

The Sidr tree is an evergreen tree with long and strong forked branches. The blossom from this tree is called Yabyab, which provides rich food for bees to produce honey in October and November. This honey is the most expensive, but tastiest

Samar Honey

The Samar tree trunk, leaves and blossom contains Barm which is the secret of healing. You can enjoy the best types of honey from this tree every year in May and June. It is an historical witness to the life of the Emirati nation which represents the harsh desert and mountain environments

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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India squad

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Director: Maggie Gyllenhaal

Starring: Olivia Colman, Jessie Buckley, Dakota Johnson

Rating: 4/5

How to get there

Emirates (www.emirates.com) flies directly to Hanoi, Vietnam, with fares starting from around Dh2,725 return, while Etihad (www.etihad.com) fares cost about Dh2,213 return with a stop. Chuong is 25 kilometres south of Hanoi.
 

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