There's luxury and then there's Aman. The hotel brand has built its reputation on properties where privacy, personalised service and meticulous attention to detail matter as much as five-star facilities.
Often found in remote or secluded settings, its hotels are designed to make guests feel removed from the outside world, even in the middle of bustling Bangkok.
The welcome
That sense of exclusivity begins before my partner and I even reach the hotel. As soon as we step off the plane at Suvarnabhumi Airport, our host, Trin, greets us and guides us through the terminal.
While other passengers from our flight head towards the main immigration queues, we're led in a different direction, through the diplomatic and cabin crew lane. This makes what can be a tiring part of arriving in Bangkok remarkably smooth.
It feels like an excellent start to my partner's first time in Thailand as we move through immigration quickly. Trin waits with us for our luggage, even offering to collect it from the belt. While it's a kind gesture, we assure him we can manage.
From there, we're led to our waiting BMW i7, stocked with bottles of water, artisanal chocolates and ginger chews. Our driver, Mod, hands us cold towels to freshen up. These are particularly welcome after our almost seven-hour overnight flight.
Our seats have massage functions and window coverings offer privacy from the traffic outside, allowing us to settle in as we are driven into the city.
The room
Much like other Aman properties, the hotel is deliberately intimate, with only 52 suites. The smallest cover an impressive 94 square metres, making them particularly spacious for a city hotel.
Despite being in the middle of Bangkok, the whole space feels remarkably private and secluded, and we rarely see other guests in the hallways or lifts.
We are staying in a premier suite on the 12th floor. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide plenty of natural light and views across the city skyline. An oversized king bed and window seat sit alongside a separate living area with a large daybed, dining table and desk, making the suite feel more like a small apartment than a conventional hotel room.
The generous amount of space continues in the bathroom, with a free-standing soaking tub, double vanities and a large marble rain shower. Pivoting panels between the bathroom and bedroom can also be opened, making the already sizeable suite feel even larger.
The food
The hotel has seven restaurants and bars, although most of our dining takes place on the ninth floor. This is where Arva, Aman's Italian restaurant, serves breakfast as well as lunch and dinner, while 1872 offers Thai and western dishes, afternoon tea and drinks. Other options are found within the Aman Club on the 19th floor, including the Japanese teppanyaki restaurant Hiori, omakase concept Sesui and the Aman Lounge.
On our first night, we have dinner at Arva. We start with the Napoli pizzette (750 Thai baht), followed by minestrone soup (500 baht), linguine all'astice (2,500 baht) and risotto allo zafferano (1,050 baht). We're impressed by how well the restaurant does Italian food, especially in a city where excellent Thai cuisine is everywhere.
Dessert is a highlight. The tiramisu (650 baht) isn't overly sweet and has a pronounced coffee flavour, while the fetta fiorentina (550 baht) pairs dark chocolate with a sharp sherbet that work surprisingly well together.
However, what stands out perhaps more than the food is the hospitality. When I mention I'm feeling cold because of the air conditioning, a member of staff brings me a scarf to wear. I'm also feeling congested and, without even asking, they prepare a warm lemon and honey tea.
During our stay, we also visit 1872, the hotel's all-day dining restaurant. I order an iced Thai milk tea, while my partner opts for the Garden Keeper, a mocktail combining pineapple, banana, mint and honey with grapefruit and rosemary tonic.
We share a rocket and fig salad, falafel sandwich with spicy sauce and French fries, vegetable toast and pad see ew. The latter proves a particularly good introduction to quality Thai food for my partner. We finish with the classic Thai dessert of mango sticky rice.
The neighbourhood
Despite being in the centre of Bangkok, we barely hear any of the city's traffic or other noise while inside the hotel. Set within the seven-acre Nai Lert Park, it is surrounded by greenery and feels incredibly private.
The hotel is within walking distance of shopping centres including Central Embassy, but most of Bangkok's major sights require a car or public transport. This isn't much of an inconvenience, though, as rides through apps such as Grab are easy to arrange and the hotel is well placed for exploring other parts of central Bangkok.
Spa and wellness
The wellness facilities are extensive, with a 265 square-metre fitness centre equipped with Technogym machines, dedicated movement and Pilates studios, and a 25-metre outdoor swimming pool.
The Aman Spa, on the 10th floor, has seven treatment rooms, including one dedicated to Thai massage, as well as hydrotherapy facilities with dry and steam saunas, hot tubs, cold plunge pools and experiential showers.
Traditional Thai massage and herbal treatments are on offer, and I opt for the 90-minute Rice Compress oil massage, a treatment exclusive to Aman Nai Lert Bangkok. Gently heated rice compresses are used alongside a choice of signature oil, with the treatment designed to relax tense muscles and promote smoother skin.
I'm given ginger and lemon balm tea before my therapist, Jan, begins the treatment. It's so relaxing that I fall asleep several times. There's also a thoughtful touch at the end: I'm given rice compresses to take home, along with instructions on how to heat and use them.
The service
From the moment we step off our flight, Aman Nai Lert Bangkok makes it clear that we are being looked after. The service is attentive without feeling intrusive, and despite the number of staff quietly working, we are rarely disturbed when we're in our room.
Butler services and requests can be handled easily over WhatsApp, meaning there's little need to call reception or seek someone out. For example, when I ask for a clothes steamer after unpacking crumpled clothes from our suitcases, I return later to find a full-sized standing steamer in our room.
The verdict
Aman Nai Lert Bangkok is the city's most expensive hotel, but much of what is being paid for isn't immediately obvious. The luxury here is in the sizeable suites, exceptional privacy and attentive service.
Perhaps its greatest strength is how removed it feels from the city despite being right in the middle of it. For those willing to pay for it, the real luxury here is having the energy of one of Asia's busiest cities on your doorstep while feeling almost entirely removed from it.
The bottom line
Room rates vary depending on the season. My room starts at $1,748 (Dh6,420) per night, excluding taxes. Check-in is from 3pm and checkout is by noon, with both flexible subject to availability.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects standards during this time
