A Kennedy-style stay at Cape Cod's charming Chatham Inn

Fine dining, blue skies and fresh air at the white-picket-fence retreat on the popular US holiday destination

The exterior of Chatham Inn, Cape Cod. Photo: Relais & Chateaux

Cape Cod is somewhere I have wanted to go for years. With endless beaches, quaint towns, historic lighthouses and oyster bars – I had built the Massachusetts peninsula up in my mind to be something of an idyllic Kennedy-approved escape. I was going to “summer” like American royalty.

So, with this the lucky year, I packed an endless array of blue and white garments, and threw a cable knit jumper over my shoulders to check into the Chatham Inn, a Relais & Chateaux hotel in the postcard-perfect town it shares a name with.

The history

The hotel certainly does have a history. Like many buildings in Cape Cod, outside there is a plaque recounting its story in brief. This particular house was built as a travellers home for retired sailors in 1830. Since, it has been the headquarters for a Norfolk Hunting Club before running as an inn since 1898. In the early 20th century, the first in-house restaurant was opened, offering dinners from $1.25. It has been open at the Chatham Inn since the mid-2010s.

Today, it retains its charm with a deck complete with rocking chairs, a white picket fence and a fire pit stocked patio.

The welcome

The scenic Oyster Pond in Chatham, Cape Cod. Farah Andrews / The National

The hotel had a warm feel from the moment we pulled in and left our rental car in the gravel car park at the back. A team member was there to greet my partner and I, take our names and whisk our luggage away with no questions. As the hotel is relatively small (with just 19 rooms) staff gave the impression of knowing each guest personally – a name goes much further than a reservation number.

Inside, we were greeted with a welcome drink made of cranberry juice and sparkling water – cranberries, I learn, are an important Cape Cod export – and the front-of-house team member gave us a passionate rundown of everything we could do in Chatham and nearby.

The room

Inside room 17 at the Chatham Inn. Photo: Relais & Chateaux

We checked into room 17 in the premiere fireplace category with views of the hotel’s front garden and town’s Main Street.

It was summer when we arrived, so we had no need for our fireplace, but I did enjoy the novelty of having it. The decor is neutral and stone-toned, and the room has high ceilings and exposed beams. There is nothing kitsch about the room – don’t check in expecting a beach house replica. The hotel has a confident high-end feel.

The bathroom has a spacious bath with a built-in shower and is kitted out with Bulgari toiletries. I particularly liked the addition of face wipes and a darker cloth for make-up removal.

I loved that we were told our room number before we arrived, so we were able to see images of the exact space we would be staying in – not just its bracket. A small but significant touch in the booking process and a perk of staying in a boutique inn.

The food

Cuvee at the Chatham Inn. Photo: Relais & Chateaux

The hotel is home to Cuvee, described as “probably the best restaurant between Chatham and Boston”. With one of the finest restaurants on the Cape at our disposal, making a reservation was essential.

The menu changes frequently, but we opted for the four courses for $185, adding on a shared cheese course for $18. The food was presented spectacularly, with a firm focus on seafood. The Chatham hake nigiri was my highlight – a superbly fresh piece of fish, balanced with light and bright Japanese flavours. The strip loin steak main was tender and cooked to perfection, presented with an endive and cranberry salad.

A steak dish served at Cuvee, Chatham Inn. Photo: Relais & Chateaux

A white tablecloth establishment, with a cocktail dress code, this felt like a place people travel to (from near and far) to mark special occasions. The staff were friendly without being overbearing, keen to speak enthusiastically about the story behind the dishes, and then ready to give us space to enjoy them.

Next door is a small wine bar, which was a nice place to sit and unwind in peace and quiet at the end of the day. Each day an afternoon snack was left out in the lobby, which was a nice touch – cookies and a cup of tea are always welcome.

The breakfast scene

Breakfast is served in Cuvee. After a morning amuse bouche of cinnamon cookies, there is an a la carte menu to choose from. The selection includes options such as a cream cheese and smoked salmon bagel, an omelette and steel cut oats. There is no buffet selection, but the staff are generous (and quick) with their coffee pours, and offer up fresh juices and morning wellness shots.

The neighbourhood

Steps down to the Lighthouse Beach in Chatham. Photo: Relais & Chateaux

Dining options apart, there are very few facilities at the hotel. However, its strength is its location. It is on Chatham’s Main Street, so endless boutique shops, independent restaurants and atmospheric bars are a short walk away, as is the rugged Cape Cod coast line.

On our first afternoon at the hotel we walked around the town and along its beaches for hours. The nearby Lighthouse Beach was a highlight − the blue skies and still sea views never got old. Many dollars were spent on various pieces of Cape Cod merchandise on Main Street, and many lobster rolls were eaten at local restaurants − the Chatham Pier Fish Market was a highlight for a casual lunch and some seal spotting.

The Chatham Pier Fish Market in Cape Cod. Farah Andrews / The National

We hired a car – recommended for easy transport while on Cape Cod and as the most straightforward way to get there – and throughout our stay enjoyed a few day trips, including a boat to nearby Nantucket and drive up to Provincetown at the northern tip of the peninsula.

Family friendly factor

The hotel caters to adults, with a policy of no children under the age of 12.

Accessibility and sustainability

As a small inn, there are no elevators but there is a wheelchair ramp that leads into the lobby, to the ground floor rooms and into Cuvee.

Staff recommend room one to guests who use wheelchairs, as it is located on the ground floor with a walk-in shower. However there are no handles within the bathroom facilities.

Service dogs, with service papers, leads and vests are welcome at the hotel.

The service

The staff at the hotel were warm, accommodating and very friendly throughout. They were quick with recommendations about nearby hotels and restaurants, and with lots of day trip suggestions. Guests also leave with a small pot of Chatham sea salt, which is a lovely memento.

Value for money

Rooms start at $708 per night. Check in is from 4pm and check out is by 11am.

Travel to Chatham from the UAE via direct flights to Boston with both Etihad Airways and Emirates. A drive from Boston Logan International Airport to Chatham is about two hours, traffic depending.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future