My very first trip to Japan was anything but ideal. My husband and I landed in Tokyo – on the first leg of our honeymoon – and I had brought a severe case of food poisoning with me. Confined to our hotel room, I spent days watching the neon lights through the curtains, unable to explore the city. It was miserable, but in a strange way, magnetic. Little did I know that this feeling of missing out would shape my relationship with Japan for years. As we left the country on that first trip, I knew I would be back. And I did go back, year after year. That inauspicious beginning ended up igniting a long love affair, obsession even, with Japan. I even lived there for three years.
Over time, I discovered that Japan isn’t a once-in-a-lifetime trip – it’s a “do it as soon as you can” trip.
Whenever I mention that I lived in Tokyo, people say, “I’d love to visit one day”. For many, Japan often sits on a distant pedestal, beautiful, but perceived as too expensive or too foreign, something that requires effort, time, or even one’s life savings. But here’s the truth – it’s wonderfully accessible if approached with the right attitude.
Take accommodation, for example. What sets Japan apart is the range of places to stay that fit every budget, often located in neighbourhoods that feel safe, welcoming and beautiful. Even the humblest three-star hotels offer a level of cleanliness and service that rivals higher-end options elsewhere in the world. The attention to detail – including slippers waiting for you by the door, Japanese nightgowns neatly folded on your pillow each evening, and thoughtful touches such as Japanese face masks in the amenities kit, is something you won’t forget. These hotels, often located in central neighbourhoods, allow you to experience Japan’s charm without sacrificing comfort or accessibility.
And then, of course, there are the convenience stores. Exploring them feels like stepping into a treasure trove of small joys. FamilyMart, 7-Eleven and Lawson are nothing like their Western counterparts. They’re an essential part of the Japanese experience, offering everything from perfectly seasoned onigiri (rice balls) to cool toiletries and things you never thought you needed, such as cooling wipes during the summer or foot warmers in the winter. It has become a ritual for me – grabbing a snack, a fun gimmick and maybe a dessert to enjoy during my walks. And then there are the drugstores such as Matsumoto Kiyoshi, where you can lose yourself in aisles of quirky, innovative products – from skincare wonders to unique candies and herbal remedies. Pair this with a visit to Tokyu Hands, a multi-floor haven for crafts, tools, and yet more things you didn’t know you needed, and eight-floor stationery paradise in Ginza, called Itoya, where each level focuses on a specific theme such as pens, paper, or design, and you have the perfect introduction to Japan’s everyday magic.
Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need two full weeks or a massive budget to enjoy it. If you can swing a long weekend (or even four days as I did on a recent trip from the UAE), you’ll still find magic. Over seven years of repeat visits, I realised how each trip, no matter how short or long, uncovers new layers. Even after living there, I’m still left with the nagging sense that I’ve missed out on something. That’s the magic of Japan – the more you see, the more you realise there’s an entire world beyond what you’ve just glimpsed.
One striking contrast hit me when I stayed in central Shibuya, only a 15-minute walk from the whisper-quiet residential neighbourhood of Hiroo that I used to call home. Shibuya is all neon and towering screens and chaotic intersections. My old neighbourhood was the opposite – lanes lined with potted plants, the gentle smell of incense in the air, and people whispering in hushed voices. How could such different atmospheres sit so close together? Japan constantly plays with these contradictions – loud meets soft, modern meets ancient, hyper organised meets beautiful chaos.
On my earliest trips, I couldn’t read Japanese, so my senses were overwhelmed by the indecipherable signs. Over the years, I started to learn the language. Soon, that extra layer of noise vanished as characters that were once foreign started coming into focus. I hadn’t realised how much mental energy went into not understanding. That’s when I began to appreciate Japan’s subtle touches – the respectful bows, the meticulous bento boxes, the quiet side streets. Each return visit became a calmer and deeper exploration.
After repeated trips, I began to notice the concept of shokunin, often translated as “craftsman” or “artisan”. But it means so much more. It’s a lifelong devotion to one’s craft. It means giving oneself fully to mastering a craft with patience and humility, treating every small detail – whether in work or daily moments – as an opportunity to create something beautiful. We often think of sushi chefs and baristas in this category, but the same dedication applies to vinyl pressers, perfumers and even the gift-wrappers at shops.
It made me wonder, why don’t we travel the same way? With intention, depth and respect for detail. Why not apply the concept of shokunin to travel? Slowing down and feeling more connected to each place we visit. To make travel less about crossing items off a list and more about perfecting the craft of experiencing Japan moment by moment.
There is a shokunin for everything you can imagine in Japan. The Japanese feel like master curators of everyday life – whether you’re wandering the backstreets of Aoyama, strolling the alleys of Naka Meguro, flipping through carefully arranged books in Tsutaya Books Daikanyama, or marvelling at fruit displays in lit vitrines in a depachika. Speaking of which, food is often a gateway to this world of detail. Some of the most spectacular culinary experiences aren’t found in fancy restaurants, but in those department store basements, the domain of the depachikas (a word formed from “depa,” short for department store, and “chika”, meaning basement). Here, you’ll discover artisanal pastries, hand-wrapped sweets and fruit grown with exacting precision.
Perhaps the best example of a simple ingredient made with meticulous care can be found at Ginza Tsuboyaki-imo, a tiny shop entirely devoted to sweet potatoes that I accidentally stumbled upon during one of my long walks in Ginza’s alleyways during the pandemic. The shop is so small, I could have missed it had the streets not been completely empty. By roasting sweet potatoes in ceramic jars (a process known as tsuboyaki-imo), they achieve a caramelised exterior and a custard-like interior unlike anything you’ll ever taste. They focus on specific varieties such as beni haruka or anno imo, each with a unique flavour; this shows how even the simplest food can become extraordinary when crafted with care.
Tea offers another window into Japan’s depth. Early in my travels, I assumed matcha would be my go-to, but, after many trials, I found it too intense and slightly bitter for my taste. That’s when I discovered gyokuro, a shade-grown green tea with a smoother, more umami-driven sweetness. It took time and several visits to figure out what I truly enjoyed. This trial-and-error reflects how experiencing Japan is an ongoing process of self-discovery. You can’t – and won’t – figure it all out in one go.
High-end sushi counters remain some of the most impressive examples of shokunin. Sushi Saito is among the most revered. I spent 10 years trying to secure a seat there – which I finally did earlier this year. On the morning of my reservation, I met Tokyo’s “King of Tuna”, Yamaguchi-san, at Toyosu Market and watched him assign cuts based on the chef’s style and preferences – an intimate dance of relationships. At Sushi Saito’s tiny nine-seat counter, chef Takashi Saito adjusts the temperature of the rice for each fish, slightly warmer for fatty cuts, cooler for lean ones. Every motion is precise, yet full of care, and that first bite made me realise how little I’d known about sushi. The decade of waiting was instantly worth it.
Elsewhere at Koffee Mameya, a tiny speciality coffee bar, I saw just how deep attention to detail can be. On my most recent visit, I asked the barista, Taka-san, for beans for my husband and started to describe his preferences. Taka-san turned around and pulled out a card that listed every bag of beans and cup of coffee we’d ever ordered there since 2014. In that simple moment, I was floored, but I also understood I wasn’t just another face in the crowd. I was part of the fabric of their quiet way of doing things there.
Japan is both easy and difficult to explain. On one hand, its all skyscrapers, neon billboards and the roar of Shibuya crossing. On the other, it is the old shrines, quaint alleys and the silent Zen of a hidden garden. That constant dance of slow and fast, ancient and futuristic, means every trip feels fresh. I’ve left Japan several times full of sadness and thinking, “I barely scratched the surface”. It’s that sense of unfinished exploration that pulls you back. When you catch yourself saying, “I’d love to go one day,” consider making it, “I’ll go as soon as I can”. Because once you do, you’ll realise that you won’t want to bother with anywhere else until you’ve perfected visiting Japan.
Bombshell
Director: Jay Roach
Stars: Nicole Kidman, Charlize Theron, Margot Robbie
Four out of five stars
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How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE
When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.
Specs
Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric
Range: Up to 610km
Power: 905hp
Torque: 985Nm
Price: From Dh439,000
Available: Now
The National's picks
4.35pm: Tilal Al Khalediah
5.10pm: Continous
5.45pm: Raging Torrent
6.20pm: West Acre
7pm: Flood Zone
7.40pm: Straight No Chaser
8.15pm: Romantic Warrior
8.50pm: Calandogan
9.30pm: Forever Young
Specs%20
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The specs
Engine: 5.0-litre supercharged V8
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Power: 575bhp
Torque: 700Nm
Price: Dh554,000
On sale: now
The specs
Engine: Turbocharged four-cylinder 2.7-litre
Power: 325hp
Torque: 500Nm
Transmission: 10-speed automatic
Price: From Dh189,700
On sale: now
The burning issue
The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.
Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on
Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins
Read part one: how cars came to the UAE
Jetour T1 specs
Engine: 2-litre turbocharged
Power: 254hp
Torque: 390Nm
Price: From Dh126,000
Available: Now
The Indoor Cricket World Cup
When: September 16-23
Where: Insportz, Dubai
Indoor cricket World Cup:
Insportz, Dubai, September 16-23
UAE fixtures:
Men
Saturday, September 16 – 1.45pm, v New Zealand
Sunday, September 17 – 10.30am, v Australia; 3.45pm, v South Africa
Monday, September 18 – 2pm, v England; 7.15pm, v India
Tuesday, September 19 – 12.15pm, v Singapore; 5.30pm, v Sri Lanka
Thursday, September 21 – 2pm v Malaysia
Friday, September 22 – 3.30pm, semi-final
Saturday, September 23 – 3pm, grand final
Women
Saturday, September 16 – 5.15pm, v Australia
Sunday, September 17 – 2pm, v South Africa; 7.15pm, v New Zealand
Monday, September 18 – 5.30pm, v England
Tuesday, September 19 – 10.30am, v New Zealand; 3.45pm, v South Africa
Thursday, September 21 – 12.15pm, v Australia
Friday, September 22 – 1.30pm, semi-final
Saturday, September 23 – 1pm, grand final
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The biog
Name: Atheja Ali Busaibah
Date of birth: 15 November, 1951
Favourite books: Ihsan Abdel Quddous books, such as “The Sun will Never Set”
Hobbies: Reading and writing poetry
The specs: 2018 Bentley Bentayga V8
Price, base: Dh853,226
Engine: 4.0-litre twin-turbo V8
Transmission: Eight-speed automatic
Power: 550hp @ 6,000pm
Torque: 770Nm @ 1,960rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 11.4L / 100km
WWE Super ShowDown results
Seth Rollins beat Baron Corbin to retain his WWE Universal title
Finn Balor defeated Andrade to stay WWE Intercontinental Championship
Shane McMahon defeated Roman Reigns
Lars Sullivan won by disqualification against Lucha House Party
Randy Orton beats Triple H
Braun Strowman beats Bobby Lashley
Kofi Kingston wins against Dolph Zigggler to retain the WWE World Heavyweight Championship
Mansoor Al Shehail won the 50-man Battle Royal
The Undertaker beat Goldberg
Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026
1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
3. More tax audits
Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks.
4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime
Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.
5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.
6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes.
7. Limited time periods for audits
Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion.
8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer
In-demand jobs and monthly salaries
- Technology expert in robotics and automation: Dh20,000 to Dh40,000
- Energy engineer: Dh25,000 to Dh30,000
- Production engineer: Dh30,000 to Dh40,000
- Data-driven supply chain management professional: Dh30,000 to Dh50,000
- HR leader: Dh40,000 to Dh60,000
- Engineering leader: Dh30,000 to Dh55,000
- Project manager: Dh55,000 to Dh65,000
- Senior reservoir engineer: Dh40,000 to Dh55,000
- Senior drilling engineer: Dh38,000 to Dh46,000
- Senior process engineer: Dh28,000 to Dh38,000
- Senior maintenance engineer: Dh22,000 to Dh34,000
- Field engineer: Dh6,500 to Dh7,500
- Field supervisor: Dh9,000 to Dh12,000
- Field operator: Dh5,000 to Dh7,000
Dhadak 2
Director: Shazia Iqbal
Starring: Siddhant Chaturvedi, Triptii Dimri
Rating: 1/5
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
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Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
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Dunki
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Five expert hiking tips
- Always check the weather forecast before setting off
- Make sure you have plenty of water
- Set off early to avoid sudden weather changes in the afternoon
- Wear appropriate clothing and footwear
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COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
Libya's Gold
UN Panel of Experts found regime secretly sold a fifth of the country's gold reserves.
The panel’s 2017 report followed a trail to West Africa where large sums of cash and gold were hidden by Abdullah Al Senussi, Qaddafi’s former intelligence chief, in 2011.
Cases filled with cash that was said to amount to $560m in 100 dollar notes, that was kept by a group of Libyans in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso.
A second stash was said to have been held in Accra, Ghana, inside boxes at the local offices of an international human rights organisation based in France.
TO ALL THE BOYS: ALWAYS AND FOREVER
Directed by: Michael Fimognari
Starring: Lana Condor and Noah Centineo
Two stars
Padmaavat
Director: Sanjay Leela Bhansali
Starring: Ranveer Singh, Deepika Padukone, Shahid Kapoor, Jim Sarbh
3.5/5
The five pillars of Islam
TO A LAND UNKNOWN
Director: Mahdi Fleifel
Starring: Mahmoud Bakri, Aram Sabbah, Mohammad Alsurafa
Rating: 4.5/5