Early morning hot air balloon rides are some of Cappadocia's most popular activities. Igor Sporynin / Unsplash
Early morning hot air balloon rides are some of Cappadocia's most popular activities. Igor Sporynin / Unsplash
Early morning hot air balloon rides are some of Cappadocia's most popular activities. Igor Sporynin / Unsplash
Early morning hot air balloon rides are some of Cappadocia's most popular activities. Igor Sporynin / Unsplash

Crowd-free Cappadocia is a place where dreams take flight


Evelyn Lau
  • English
  • Arabic

Beneath an endless blue sky, towering rock spires jut up through valleys carved into soft, flowing waves. It's this stunning natural landscape that makes Cappadocia a favourite destination for many who visit Turkey, whether enjoying it from above on a hot air balloon ride or capturing majestic landscape photos from below, framed by rose-coloured rocks and winding canyons.

Cappadocia, listed as a Unesco World Heritage site, is made up of villages and towns from Nevsehir, Kayseri and the Aksaray provinces, with some areas extending into Kırsehir and Nigde. It's a short one-and-a-half-hour flight from Istanbul with Turkish Airlines to Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport, the smaller of Anatolia's two airports and one that puts me roughly 25km from the district's centre.

Like the majority of tourists who have come here, hot air balloons are high on my to-do list. I set my alarm for 5.15am for an early departure to the balloon's location. My group is picked up in a van and whisked through a mountainous backdrop just as the sun begins to rise. Arriving at our destination, I find myself surrounded by balloons of all colours and sizes, some still being set up while others have begun to float gracefully up into the sky.

My group of nearly 20 gets into the huge basket, splitting into four groups of six people so that our weight is evenly distributed. Our pilot pulls on a handle and releases the fire to send the balloon floating off the ground. Although I’m normally nervous when it comes to heights, I feel surprisingly relaxed.

The view from above in a hot air balloon. Evelyn Lau / The National
The view from above in a hot air balloon. Evelyn Lau / The National

The view from above is spectacular as we ascend. Vehicles and people on the ground become smaller while the other hot air balloons around us seem to grow larger the higher we go. Although Cappadocia generally has colder temperatures at this time of year, I find the chill refreshing. There’s a slight wind blowing, but it is a nice breeze that serves to wake us up as if to ensure we take notice of our lovely surroundings.

The balloon rotates as we fly meaning no matter where I stand, I have a 360-degree view of the landscape below. As the balloon drifts higher, we see Cappadocia's famous rock formations, cave dwellings and towering spires, also known as fairy chimneys, all bathed in the soft glow of the rising sun. The colour of the landscapes shifts from muted greys to warm oranges and pinks, creating a truly beautiful canvas.

Camel-shaped rocks and all-terrain vehicles

A rock formation that resembles a camel. Evelyn Lau / The National
A rock formation that resembles a camel. Evelyn Lau / The National

While hot air ballooning is undoubtedly one of the highlights of any trip to Cappadocia, there's plenty more to discover. From hiking winding trails and discovering ancient cave dwellings to horse riding and outdoor adventures on all-terrain vehicles. And at this time of year, the destination isn't thronging with tourists meaning there's scope to see and do all that you wish.

Our journey takes us to Pasabag Valley next, also known as the Monks Valle, and a serene retreat where Cappadocia's famed fairy chimneys stand tall. This place is steeped in history and walking its winding paths feels like exploring a natural sculpture park.

From here, we continue to Devrent Imaginary Valley, a place where centuries of erosion have shaped the rock formations into a host of whimsical shapes. With a bit of imagination, I can spot animals like camels, tigers and lions or, as I notice, the face of a cat in the opening of a nearby cave.

Riding around on ATVs is a unique way to experience more of Cappadocia's charm. Evelyn Lau / The National
Riding around on ATVs is a unique way to experience more of Cappadocia's charm. Evelyn Lau / The National

In Nevsehir, it's time to up the ante with some adventure as we're introduced to a fleet of rugged all-terrain vehicles. After selecting a face covering designed to protect myself from the sun and the dust that will no doubt follow as I speed around the winding trails, I don a helmet and hop on my vehicle.

As it is my first time on an ATV, I’m a little nervous but dutifully follow my group as we head off into the rugged terrain one by one in a line formation. It turns out, that operating the vehicle is surprisingly easy and I soon find my comfort zone. Riding through this impressive landscape is something special, whizzing over rolling valleys and under towering fairy chimneys. The sun is high in the sky, but a gentle winter breeze ensures no one overheats.

Embracing the magic in Goreme

Back on the bus, we head to Goreme, one of Cappadocia's central hubs, which is a tourist hotspot in high season. Off-season offers a more serene experience for travellers hoping to explore the region's rock formations and cave dwellings and take advantage of its proximity to some of the region’s most impressive natural sights, such as Love Valley and Esentepe Panoramic viewpoint.

Cappadocia wishing trees. Evelyn Lau / The National
Cappadocia wishing trees. Evelyn Lau / The National

Scattered along the cliff here and standing out among the earthy tones of the rugged landscape, are a cluster of trees adorned with brightly coloured ribbons, fabric and amulets that have been tied on by visitors hoping the act will bring them good fortune. Some trees feature glass bottles filled with written wishes or messages. This practice of making wishes on the trees is thought to have originated in ancient Anatolian beliefs when the trees were seen as being associated with the spirits of nature.

Nearby are some stalls where local merchants sell trinkets and fabrics to visitors. I purchase a colourful green bottle for 100 Turkish lira (Dh10) and write out my own wishes, hoping first for a free Palestine, and secondly for all cats and dogs to have loving homes.

I carefully tie it around one of the branches and close my eyes, feeling a sense of hope and connection to something much larger than myself. It Is a simple act, but it leaves a lasting impression on me, much like the magic of Cappadocia itself.

The biog:

From: Wimbledon, London, UK

Education: Medical doctor

Hobbies: Travelling, meeting new people and cultures 

Favourite animals: All of them 

Living in...

This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.

Tamkeen's offering
  • Option 1: 70% in year 1, 50% in year 2, 30% in year 3
  • Option 2: 50% across three years
  • Option 3: 30% across five years 
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
New schools in Dubai
The specs

Engine: 4.0-litre V8 twin-turbocharged and three electric motors

Power: Combined output 920hp

Torque: 730Nm at 4,000-7,000rpm

Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch automatic

Fuel consumption: 11.2L/100km

On sale: Now, deliveries expected later in 2025

Price: expected to start at Dh1,432,000

Torbal Rayeh Wa Jayeh
Starring: Ali El Ghoureir, Khalil El Roumeithy, Mostafa Abo Seria
Stars: 3

Pharaoh's curse

British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
New UK refugee system

 

  • A new “core protection” for refugees moving from permanent to a more basic, temporary protection
  • Shortened leave to remain - refugees will receive 30 months instead of five years
  • A longer path to settlement with no indefinite settled status until a refugee has spent 20 years in Britain
  • To encourage refugees to integrate the government will encourage them to out of the core protection route wherever possible.
  • Under core protection there will be no automatic right to family reunion
  • Refugees will have a reduced right to public funds

White hydrogen: Naturally occurring hydrogenChromite: Hard, metallic mineral containing iron oxide and chromium oxideUltramafic rocks: Dark-coloured rocks rich in magnesium or iron with very low silica contentOphiolite: A section of the earth’s crust, which is oceanic in nature that has since been uplifted and exposed on landOlivine: A commonly occurring magnesium iron silicate mineral that derives its name for its olive-green yellow-green colour

The Cockroach

 (Vintage)

Ian McEwan 
 

Updated: November 28, 2024, 2:08 AM