A historic gateway to Cambodia's Angkor Wat: FCC Angkor by Avani hotel review

Housed in what used to be the Foreign Correspondents Club, this leafy property is at once rustic and lavish

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  FCC Angkor by Avani in Siem Reap is surrounded by centuries-old trees. All photos: Minor Hotels

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  The open-air lobby

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  A bedroom in the Heritage wing of the property

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  One of two saltwater pools

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  Mansion restaurant once served as the residence of the French governor in Siem Reap

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  Tuna ceviche with mint oil served at Mansion

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  Visaya spa offers a range of Khmer-rooted massages

Home to the governors of two countries, Thailand and France, at different points over its two-century history, the property that houses FCC Angkor by Avani hotel is, in many ways, a microcosm of multifaceted Cambodia itself.

When the country achieved independence in 1953, the land here became the residence of the French Consul General. Drawing its name from the time it served as a base for the Siem Reap chapter of the Foreign Correspondents Club (hence the FCC in its name), the hotel pays homage to these colonial-era scribes in subtle ways. Equally apparent, though, is the influence of the Hindu-Buddhist Khmer Empire, a period in the country’s history termed Angkor (hence the name of the city's Unesco World Heritage-listed temple complex).

For all of its history though, the hotel, which joined the Minor group in 2019, offers all the mod cons that travellers expect, with an excellent restaurant and spa to boot.

The welcome

The hotel has an open-air lobby with Cambodian murals and sculptures. Photo: Minor Hotels

The hotel is split into two wings, with the open-air lobby and Heritage wing on one side, and the newer Premiere wing on the other. The first impression is one of laid-back charm, with Cambodian motifs dotted all around the lobby. These include handwoven rattan baskets, a miniature wooden “spirit house” in one corner and a pristine white rickshaw at the entrance, flanked by two oversized gongs.

Taking in the various figurines etched into a looming mural inspired by the many famed temples of Siem Reap takes more time than it does for paperwork to be processed, key cards arranged and luggage delivered to the room well ahead of me.

The neighbourhood

The hotel is right in the city centre, at the heart of the old French Quarter. A walk along the leafy bylane leads straight to the shopping hub Sivutha Blvd, which has a mix of brands and boutiques, both international (think Charles and Keith and adidas) and local (Kandle Village).

The Royal Independence Gardens are four minutes away on foot, Pub Street is a 10-minute walk away and best visited in a group (so we are told), while the famed Angkor Wat is a 15-minute drive away. The hotel can also organise tours via Vespa to the temple complex, a fun way to explore.

The room

All rooms come with a typewriter in a nod to the property's past as a hub for journalists. Photo: Minor Hotels

The premier room is well-appointed at 38 square metres, with plenty of wardrobe and storage space, a work desk, a separate toilet and enormous stone bathtub, and a pool-facing veranda with a ceiling fan. Best of all, it is replete with both Khmer touches – from a brass basin and mosaic tiles in the bathing area to silk upholstery, a miniature gong, plus bar snacks and toiletries by small-batch Cambodian businesses – as well as references to its past lives as the FCC including a typewriter and old-school radio. There’s even a robust black phone with a rotary dial.

The service

Enthusiastic and effusive, the staff are knowledgeable and ready to help at all times. A malfunctioning air-conditioning thermostat is fixed at a moment’s notice, as is a wooden door jammed shut courtesy of a seasonal downpour. The therapists at the spa, meanwhile, prove adept at releasing the tightest of knots with the deftest of touches.

The scene

Despite its laid-back look and feel, the hotel buzzes with activity. From Apsara dance performances and botanical tastings to a clothing boutique, art gallery and souvenir shop on the premises, there is plenty to see and do. A four-piece live band performs in Scribe Bar every Monday, too, belting out retro and pop hits from under a century-old tree.

Visaya spa offers a range of Khmer-rooted massages

Each wing has its own marble-tiled, saltwater swimming pool and Visaya spa is in the Premiere wing, offering treatments that combine Cambodian, Thai and Ayurvedic influences.

The traditional Khmer massage, for instance, was originally used to revitalise monks after long periods of meditation and focuses on body alignment and rigorous stretching without the use of oil. Elsewhere, a herbal compress made of ginger, turmeric, lemongrass and plai helps soothe sore muscles and mitigate migraines. Chakra balancing via singing bowls is ideal for those who want to explore sound healing, while the massage using bamboo sticks is a distinctive style that takes a bit of getting used to, but effectively releases tension.

The food

The Mansion is FCC Angkor’s main restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Housed in a colonial-era building that was constructed during the early 1950s as part of the French Consulate compound, the open-plan restaurant exudes a distinctly old-school vibe.

Mango, coconut and cocoa nibs at Mansion restaurant. Photo: Minor Hotels

The kitchen, meanwhile, serves up gastronomy at its finest. Of the dishes I sample, the seafood options shine brightest, from a tuna ceviche appetiser with mint oil and cream cheese to flaky halibut served on top of a curried chickpea stew. Peanut and lemongrass are key ingredients, too, best tasted respectively in an amuse-bouche of chicken in betel leaf with pomelo; and a hearty tom yum soup chock-full of mushrooms, prawns and crunchy greens. Dessert is a refreshing coconut cream shaved ice with local mango, white chocolate and pandan sponge. Dishes range from $12 to $24.

More mangoes are on the menu at breakfast, which is served a la carte on the days I visit, and includes a fruit platter also filled with dragonfruit and watermelon, as well as other options, both healthy (the granola with Greek yoghurt comes highly recommended) and indulgent (perfectly poached eggs Benedict with farm-fresh spinach).

Highs and lows

Coming back to the soothing therapies at the spa, which is open until 9pm, after a long, hot day of temple-walking is resplendent – and much required.

Not a low for the hotel per se but a giant spider blocking the corridor leading to the rooms is an interesting experience, especially given one of the women in our party not only had a phobia of creepy crawlies, but also a scream that could shatter glass. After that, and a close shave with what I hoped in vain would remain a ceiling-clad lizard, it is back to the spa for me.

Insider tip

Carry – and diligently apply – mosquito repellent. Or, better still, ask the hotel for its home-grown blend of both repellent and after-bite spray.

The verdict

Suitable for solo travellers and families alike, this rustic yet luxurious property is well located, well serviced and will not burn a hole in the pocket when compared to the Minor Group’s sister property, the Anantara Angkor Resort, as well as Siem Reap’s other five-star offerings. Just watch out for that lizard.

Bottom line

Rooms start at $340 per night, including breakfast, taxes and service charges. Check-in is from 3pm; checkout is at noon.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future