A sign, perhaps, that I watch far too much television, White Lotus is front of mind when I arrive at The Ritz-Carlton Maldives, Fari Islands. But a waving welcoming committee on a paradise island setting is firmly where the parallels end.
Ritz-Carlton’s first venture in the Maldives, the hotel is set on a trio of private man-made desert islands in the North Male Atoll. An architecturally striking destination, it has eschewed the well-trod wooden island bungalow feel for an ocean-inspired aesthetic, comprising clean lines and circular motifs across the resort. The concept was conceived by Australian architect Kerry Hill, the creative behind nine Aman resorts, including the Amankora lodges in Bhutan and Amangalla in Sri Lanka. The late architect’s firm, Kerry Hill Architects, has also designed Aman Dubai, due to open in 2027.
As islands in the Maldives go, the Ritz-Carlton strikes an inviting balance – far enough away from Male and international flight paths to feel like we are truly getting away from mainland chaos, but close enough that we can access the resort via a 15-minute seaplane, 45-minute speedboat or 70-minute yacht transfer.
Along with other guests fresh off a direct Emirates flight from Dubai, we are picked up by a yacht that's docked at Male’s Velana International Airport. Setting the tone for the four days to follow, every whim is catered for on the boat, with soft drinks, snacks and iced coffees all served to order. The only thing that is off-limit being a hot coffee – “sorry, the sea is far too choppy”. They do, however, come armed with motion-sickness bands, to curb any bouts of seasickness.
It is not long before we arrive at the hotel and get swiftly swept away by Novita, our Aris Meeha (a traditional Maldivian term for butler), who is on hand to make sure we have everything we could possibly need. Over the course of our stay, Novita notices when we get a little too red after an afternoon sunbathing and runs a fresh aloe vera bath, organises a turtle snorkelling trip for us and diligently tracks down a hairdryer with a diffuser.
She is also keen to give us a buggy tour of the resort, which has 100 private bungalows of varying sizes, each complete with a private pool; a communal pool; a nine-treatment-room spa; five restaurants; a fitness centre and gym; yoga studio and water sports centre. The island also has a kids’ club, which has a children’s pool, climbing wall and jungle gym.
The rooms make up much of the distinct pod-like feel of the property. Each comes with ample space, ocean views and a firm focus on privacy. The one-bedroom villas boast a circular design, while the two-bedroom villas and the spacious three-bedroom Ritz-Carlton Estate all feature clean, straight lines. There are overwater and beach options. We check into a one-bedroom beach pool villa, which overlooks the azure blue sea and a quiet stretch of beach.
Inside, we find a generously sized bathtub in the bedroom; two showers (indoors and outdoors); a bathroom stocked with Bamford products; a minibar; and a spacious sofa and longing area. Outside, there is a large private pool, a daybed and direct beach access.
We quickly learn that mornings are best spent waking up with the sun flooding into the floor-to-ceiling windows, taking a dip in the pool and a wander down the beach, before cycling to Italian restaurant La Locanda for breakfast. The hotel’s Aris Meehas can also be on hand for any buggying around the property that guests need, but I much prefer a leisurely cycle up and down the single-road resort.
Under no circumstances should breakfast at La Locanda be missed. Available until the late morning to accommodate any slow risers, the selection is a hybrid of a la carte and buffet dishes, catering to global palates. Highlights span all of the breakfast classics, including a wide selection of tropical fruit, fresh pastries, cheese, cold cuts and salad, as well as made-to-order dosas and shakshuka. The highlight, however, is the Maldivian lobster omelette from the a la carte menu. Luckily I order the shellfish-packed dish on morning one, so I am able to ensure I indulge in one, alongside an oat milk iced latte, daily.
The dining options are among the most sparkling jewels in the hotel’s crown. The middle island of The Ritz-Carlton is known as the Culinary Island, and where La Locanda can be found along with Cantonese restaurant Summer Pavilion; sushi and teppanyaki chef’s table Iwau; and Japanese eatery Eau Bar. On the beach of the biggest island is the more relaxed Beach Shack, which hosts a Maldivian buffet dinner weekly, welcome drinks for guests and serves daily a la carte lunch and dinner. It also has a hole-in-the-wall ice cream parlour which proves to be popular among guests of all ages.
A bonus of the hotel’s location is its proximity to the neighbouring Patina Maldives hotel and the Fari Marina Village, both of which are accessible by complementary boat from The Ritz-Carlton, and open up a broad selection of dining options, including Levantine offering Arabesque and Thai food truck Tum Tum.
On our first night, we dine at Summer Pavilion, with succulent lobster dim sum and XO oyster sauce scallops among the culinary highlights. An unmissable meal, however, is the chef’s table at Iwau. The set-menu teppanyaki feast is prepared in front of us in the tucked-away eatery. With an impressive seven courses, the menu is changeable and crafted daily based on the fresh produce at the hotel. Our highlights included unagi nigiri, tuna tataki and grilled local lobster. When it comes to daytime dining, an afternoon spent lounging at Eau Bar – while indulging in the chef’s signature sushi selection to punctuate dips in the inviting circular infinity pool overlooking the ocean – is a fantastic use of time.
It isn't all eating and sleeping at the hotel, however. We spend one morning snorkelling on a nearby reef, spotting turtles, black-tip reef shark and shoals of colourful reef fish. The trip is lead by the dive centre's enthusiastic and knowledgeable staff, who ensure everyone is kept safe while taking in the spectacle of marine life that the Maldives are so famous for.
One cloudy afternoon, we use our time to check out the spa for a few hours of uninterrupted Zen. Beyond its distinctive spherical architecture, the floating structure sits at the centre of the cluster of overwater villas. It overlooks the sea and offers a vast menu of treatments, including a silent treatment, a post-dive ritual, and hot and cold jade therapy. As a keen diver, the post-dive treatment appealed, but ultimately I went for a classic de-stress massage incorporating Shiatsu and Swedish techniques.
And then, before we know it, it is time to say goodbye to The Ritz-Carlton Maldives and our Aris Meeha. It is time to start thinking for ourselves again. The reality check is gentle as we depart the island in as much style as we arrived, with a second yacht trip and a White Lotus-style send off.
