Chocolate Hills and tiny tarsiers: Why Bohol should be on every Philippines bucket list

Home to one of the country's most famous natural landmarks, the island province offers plenty to see and do

The Chocolate Hills in Bohol, Philippines. Unsplash / Maksim Grigorev

It's not even 10am, and my watch has already buzzed to let me know I've completed my 10,000 daily steps, which strikes me as slightly odd, considering I've spent the best part of the morning in the back seat of a mini tour bus, motioning towards one of the Philippines's postcard landmarks. Driving around Bohol is a bumpy ride, but one well worth the dubious fitness stats as we arrive at the Chocolate Hills.

Here, the real steps kick in as we climb the 200-ish stairs to the viewing point (hiking the hills is not permitted) over about 1,776 grass-covered limestone mounds. A select few are in the transitional phase from their lush green in cooler months to their famous chocolatey-brown shade once sun-kissed by summer.

As I read the information plaque, I'm interrupted by a Filipino journalist who is on the same trip as me, and is also a first-time visitor to Bohol. He lets our group in on the legend of two feuding giants who, one rainy day, threw fistfuls of mud at each other from the north and south edges of the land, leading to the creation of each hill. Not only is it a much more captivating story than the official information, it serves as a moment that sets the tone for what will be our whistle-stop exploration of Bohol. Mysticism prevails as we visit ancient caves and spot tiny primates, stroll beautiful beaches, visit historic churches and shop at bustling markets – all in just two days and three nights.

Here's why Bohol (both an island and the name of the wider province which includes a further 75 smaller islands) should be on your island-hopping list, and how to do it right if you only have 48 hours.

Day 1: Sweet like chocolate scenery

After our early morning trip to the Chocolate Hills, we drive another 45 minutes to get a glimpse at another of the island's most famed attractions – tarsiers. At Bohol Enchanted Zoological and Botanical Garden, we make our way through gardens filled with other animals and mythological tales depicted via statues to set sight on these tiny primates – one of the smallest in the world measuring between only three and five inches.

We tread silently to get a glimpse of the endangered species, which we're told are extremely sensitive. Turns out, it's my own stress levels that creep up as other visitors aren't so considerate of the silence rule. Native to the island, tarsiers are a privilege to see up close, even if I left both awed and uneased. I later learn of the sanctuary's efforts across the province, which might be a preferred way for travellers to see these lemur-like cuties if you're zoo-avoidant. With only 5,000 to 10,000 left in the wild, they are protected throughout the country, with conservation efforts such as the Philippine Tarsier Foundation providing a peaceful 8.4-hectare forested sanctuary in Bohol.

The Philippine tarsier population is protected in Bohol. Hayley Kadrou / The National

Back on the road, we drive past traditional tin-roof houses as mopeds zip in front of us. On the streets, stray dogs roam around and goats tied to fences graze on front-garden grass. We pass a through Bilar Man-Made Forest – the result of a 50-year-old restoration project lining the island with white and red mahogany trees – and soon make it to Loboc River.

Cruising along the waterway here is a memory-in-the-making moment. The water is pristine and surrounding vegetation is more akin to a social media reel than real life. A performer covers The Rivers of Babylon as cruisers sing along, children dance, and families tuck into a buffet of traditional food, with everything from barbecued meats to tofu curry. Sweet-toothed, I overindulge in suman – sweet rice cooked in coconut milk then wrapped in a banana leaf.

After an obligatory stop at a souvenir shop, we head back to Amorita Resort to recuperate, but not before a stroll along Alona Beach – a scenic spot for sunbathing, snorkelling and late-night karaoke sessions.

Day 2: Bohol's caves of wonders

Rising to a rainy day, there's still a buzz in the air as we peer around Panglao Public Market. Feeling for ripe local mangoes and glancing over the piles of hanging kitchen and bathroom staples, I discover banana ketchup; a still-loved recipe and relic of the Second World War that was created by food technologist Maria Y Orosa in 1942, using the tropical fruit in place of tomatoes when access to the tangy fruit was limited across the country.

On today's agenda is a visit to St Augustine Parish Church, where a newer roof and facade sit upon an older stone structure, built beside ruins from a previous house of worship, all hinting at this house of worship's rocky past. Construction began in 1894, but was halted until 1912 due to the Philippine Revolution, which opposed colonial Spanish rule.

The church and its grounds serve as something of a snapshot of the history of the community, culture and country at large. Today, the operational church is a popular spot for tourists of all faiths owing to the art houses within its walls, particularly the striking ceiling mural that depicts Roman Catholic sacraments. The Panglao Watchtower is also here, constructed in 1851, and the tallest of its kind in the country.

From here, we make a quick stop at the Nova Shells Museum, a small building that houses one of the world's largest seashell collections. While it's fascinating to glimpse the South Sea pearl that features on the reverse of the 1,000 peso note, and was declared the nation's gemstone in 1996, it's a stop you can skip unless you have a particular penchant for collecting or viewing shells.

Inside Hinagdanan Cave in Panglao, Bohol. Alamy

The same can't be said for our next activity – venturing underground to explore Hinagdanan Cave, another spot that comes with its share of lore. Our guide escorts us inside the 100-metre-long cave, telling us how it was discovered by a local farmer, and was also a hiding place for locals evading the Japanese Imperial army during the Second World War – remnants of this use are visible in the modern-day charcoal cave art.

The cave featured in the 1973 action movie Esteban, which propelled it onto the radar of tourists. So influential was the film starring Filipino actors Fernando Poe Jr and Alona Alegre, that the aforementioned Alona Beach is named after the leading lady. Mesmerising as these tidbits are, the cave evokes wonder all by itself thanks to its limestone cavern and warm-water lagoon, where more prepared visitors dive into the waters, while we stick to soaking in the backstory.

After a late lunch overlooking the sea at Bohol Bee Farm restaurant, famed for its ice cream which you'll see sold across the island, we make it back to the resort in time to try a treatment at the Sea Tree Spa before heading to dinner at nearby Bamboo Place. Our group tucks into Filipino classics such as yang chow, bicol express and mango salad, served alongside shisha and live music, and it's the perfect setting for our final evening, and a recap on two days of exploration as we muse over where in the Philippines we'd like to island hop along to next.

Cebu Pacific flies daily from Dubai to Manila. From there, it's a 90-minute flight between Manila and Panglao International Airport, with four flights per day