'Welcome to Brazil': 2019 Copa America taking place in spiritual home of football ... not that you would know it

The world’s oldest international football tournament returns Friday when hosts Brazil face Bolivia in the opening match of the 2019 Copa America. Yet in the country often referred to as the game’s spiritual home, there is a distinct lack of fanfare or fandom. And certainly no sign the tournament’s slogan of Vibra o Continente (Rocking The Continent) is valid.

It is possible in fact to disembark at Galeão International Airport in Rio de Janeiro, make the seemingly endless walk from arrival gate to arrivals hall, pass a sequinned sign in Portuguese that reads “Welcome to Brazil” and enter a waiting taxi all without seeing a single mention of the 103-year-old competition.

Organisers have said only 65 per cent of all tickets have been sold, yet such a lack of interest is little surprise. Brazil as a country has changed considerably since it stopped to host the World Cup five years ago. The election of the incumbent and incendiary Jair Bolsonaro as president has divided the population, while a contrastingly minimal reshuffling at the Brazilian football association after their humbling 7-1 loss to Germany in 2014 has only served to further disillusion supporters.

“I have stopped watching the Selecao,” says Sebastiao Geraldo, a fifty-something Rio resident as he reminisces of Zico, the 1982 World Cup, and what might have been. “I watch European football, but the game in Brazil is all centred around money now. It is run by a band of mercenaries and the new generation of players are not much better.”

The 2014 World Cup was held amid large-scale, nationwide protests and ran up a bill in excess of$11 billion (Dh40bn). As predicted before a ball was kicked, many of the stadiums now sit unused. Estadio Mane Garrincha in Brasilia cost $550m, but can now only lay claim to being the world’s most expensive open-air carpark. It will not host a Copa America match this month.

In a country where 27 per cent of the population are illiterate, hospitals are decaying and under-equipped, and violent theft and murder are commonplace, such frivolous spending is unjustifiable. This month’s tournament has reportedly cost the Brazilian taxpayer a further $98 million.

If off-field issues have hurt the country’s once all-encompassing interest in the sport, performances on the pitch have not helped either. Expectations have been sinking slowly for some time, reaching a level arguably unseen since before the 1950s. While the five-time World Cup winners were once favourites to take every trophy they contested, it is now 17 years since Brazil were last crowned world champions.

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2019 Copa America preparations

The Copa America Trophy is displayed during a meeting between representatives of the 12 nations who will take part in the 2019 Copa America. The Copa America will be hosted in Brazil between June 14 and July 7. Getty Images

Argentina captain Lionel Messi takes part in training at a pre-Copa America training camp in Buenos Aires. EPA

Argentina players Leandro Paredes, Paulo Dybala, and Roberto Pereyra attend their team's training session at the premises of the Argentine Football Association (AFA) in Ezeiza, Buenos Aires ahead of the 2019 Copa America. The tournament will take place in Brazil from June 14-July 7. EPA

Argentina players Lautaro Martinez, Sergio Aguero and Nicolas Otamendi take part in a training session. AFP

Argentina's Lionel Messi during training. Reuters

Argentina's Lionel Messi laughs during training. Reuters

Brazil goalkeeper Alisson takes part in a training drill. Reuters

Soccer Football - Copa America - Brazil Training - Gremio training center, Porto Alegre, Brazil - June 7, 2019. Brazil's Gabriel Jesus during training at the Gremio training centre in Porto Alegre, Brazil, ahead of the country hosting the 2019 Copa America. Reuters

Brazil's Felipe Luis takes part in a training session for the national team at Beira-Rio Stadium in Porto Alegre, Brazil. AFP

Brazil goalkeper Alisson speaks during a press conference after a training session at Beira-Rio Stadium in Porto Alegre, AFP

Brazil manager Tite speaks during a press conference after a training session at Beira-Rio stadium in Porto Alegre. AFP

Dani Alves participates in a training session. EPA

Brazil's Neymar leaves the pitch injured during a friendly football match against Qatar at the Mane Garrincha stadium in Brasilia on June 5, 2019. The Brazil captain was later ruled out of the tournament. AFP

Uruguay striker Luis Suarez sits out a training session with the national team in Montevideo. The Barcelona striker joined up with his teammates last week after undergoing a meniscus on May 10. EPA

Lucas Torreira strikes a ball as Uruguay step up their Copa America preparations. EPA

Colombia's President Ivan Duque, right, gives the Colombian national flag to national team captain Radamel Falcao at Narino Presidential Palace in Bogota, on June 4, 2019 ahead of the the 2019 Copa America in Brazil. AFP

Colombia's President Ivan Duque talks to Colombia defender Yerry Mina. AFP

Peru's Paolo Guerrero eyes the ball during a friendly football match against Costa Rica at the Monumental stadium in Lima on June 5, 2019, ahead of Brazil 2019 Copa America. AFP

Arturo Vidal of Chile reacts during the friendly match against Haiti at La Portada Stadium in La Serena, Chile, on June 6, 2019, ahead of the upcoming 2019 Copa America in Brazil. EPA.

Colombia player Falcao Garcia participates in a team training session in Bogota, Colombia, on June 2019. EPA

Colombia playmaker James Rodriguez participates in a team training session in Bogota, Colombia. EPA

Carlos Zambrano of Peru during a training session at the Videna facilities in Lima, Peru, on June 2019. EPA

Paraguay coach Eduardo Berizzo conducts a training session at Albiroga Complex in Ypane, near Asuncion, on June 7, 2019, in preparation for the upcoming Copa America Brazil 2019. AFP

Paraguay players, among them Junior Alonso, left, and Miguel Almiron, third left, take part in a training session. AFP

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The 7-1 on home soil, a lack of meaningful reform, a limp quarter-final exit to Belgium at last summer's World Cup in Russia, and a team that continues to heavily rely on one Marmite player has sapped fans’ belief. It has also dulled the fear factor that opponents once felt — the yellow jersey no longer represents the leader of the pack.

“Brazilian football — for us and for the fans — needs to experience victories once more,” said Claudio Taffarel, the national team’s goalkeeping coach. Taffarel won the World Cup in 1994 and Copa America in 1989 and 1997 and is firmly of the belief prizes must be prioritised over performances. “We cannot just play well, we need to win. Winning is so important.”

Even still, there is a feeling the Copa America has lost its prestige. Brazil has kept the trophy each of the four times it has hosted, but winning a continental competition that includes only 12 teams, three of which are ranked outside the world’s top 50 and two of which are not even from the continent, cannot be compared to a World Cup.

“For me, the Copa America is just a preparation tournament for the World Cup,” said Gabriel Monteiro, a 23-year-old pharmacy student in Belo Horizonte. “The number of strong teams is limited: Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay — maybe Chile. For me, the real reason for the muted interest is that we are feeling pessimistic regarding our economy and politics and it’s probably spilling over into our football. If the team plays well in the opening games though, that will change.”

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Premier League players at the 2019 Copa America

Alisson (Liverpool, Brazil): Runner-up in the Premier League and a Uefa Champions League winner's medal was just reward for a fine season between the posts for Alisson. Recorded 21 shutouts in the Premier League, one more than his main rival for the Brazil No 1 jersey, Ederson. Knows he can afford no slip-ups with such a talented gloveman breathing down his neck. AFP

Roberto Firmino (Liverpool, Brazil): Failed to hit the same goalscoring highs as in 2017/18 but Firmino can still show off a shiny gold Champions League medal for his exploits with Liverpool this campaign. Arguably the hardest working Brazilian striker of all time. AFP

Richarlison (Everton, Brazil): The forward registered 13 goals as Everton secured a top-10 Premier League finish and scored his first international goal in last week's 2-0 friendly win over Qatar. AFP

Fernandinho (Manchester City, Brazil): Few are more accomplished and as disciplined in the role of holding midfielder. Fernandinho is much more than just a destroyer, though. AFP

Willian (Chelsea, Brazil): The winger, 30, has the ability to ghost past defenders inside and out. His searing pace and eye for goal helped Chelsea to a third-place finish in the Premier League and secure the Europa League trophy. Will be a huge asset to the hosts at the Copa America. AFP

Gabriel Jesus (Manchester City, Brazil): Had to be content with a support cast role as the prolific Sergio Aguero fired Manchester City to an historic Premier League, League Cup and FA Cup treble. Jesus' 14 goals in 28 appearances for the national team is likely to give him the edge over Roberto Firmino in Brazil's attack at the Copa. EPA

Ederson (Manchester City, Brazil): Twenty clean sheets for the Brazilian in Manchester City's title-winning Premier League campaign. In direct competition with Liverpool's Alisson for the No 1 jersey. It's hard to remember a time when Brazil possessed two of the world's top goalkeepers. AFP

Salomon Rondon (West Bromwich Albion, Venezuela): The burly forward, 29, proved a shrewd loan acquisition as Newcastle United secured another season of Premier League football. Far from prolific, but Rondon's 11 goals and constant bullying of opposition defenders proved just the tonic in Newcastle's survival bid. With 22 goals, Rondon is his country's second top goalscorer, one behind Juan Arango. AFP

Juan Foyth (Tottenham Hotspur, Argentina): A mixed season at club level with Tottenham Hotspur. While the 21-year-old defender's powers of recovery and anticipation were a plus, his decision making was poor in some games. Was shown a straight red card in Spurs' penultimate game of the Premier League campaign just over a minute after coming on at half time with the North London club already a man down. Should add to his two Argentina caps at the Copa, but manager Lionel Scaloni will need to see signs Foyth can keep his emotions in check in pressure situations. AFP

Roberto Pereyra (Watford, Argentina): Pereyra was part of the Watford team that reached the 2019 FA Cup final, and had a chance to open the scoring before Manchester City seized control to win the final 6-0. With the likes of Leandro Paredes, Angel Di Maria and Paulo Dybala all vying for a creative midfield role, 28-year-old midfielder will find first-team chances hard to come by in Brazil. Reuters

Sergio Aguero (Manchester City, Argentina): A goal-machine for both club and country after once again breaking the 30-goal barrier as Manchester City swept all before them to clinch an historic English treble. The 31-year-old striker's 39 goals in 90 Argentina appearances have come often at the expense of being second choice, and of course taking a backseat to Lionel Messi. One of the deadliest finishers in world football, Aguero possesses the goal power to end Argentina's international trophy drought that stretches back to their last Copa America success in 1993. Reuters

Nicolas Otamendi (Manchester City, Argentina): Has fallen way down the pecking order at Manchester City, reduced to a bit-part role as Pep Guardiola's side secured an unprecedented English treble of Premier League and both domestic cups. At 31 and with 59 caps, centre-back Otamendi is one of the more senior members of Lionel Scaloni's Argetina squad. Reuters

Yerry Mina (Everton, Colombia): Excelled at the 2018 Fifa World Cup in Russia, earning him a big-money move to the Premier League with Everton last summer. Struggled to get to grips with life in England, but can form a potent defensive rearguard alongside Davinson Sanchez at the heart of Colombia's defence. Reuters

David Ospina (Arsenal, Colombia): The goalkeeper, 30, spent the 2018/19 season on loan at Napoli, registering 17 appearances. Has 95 caps for his country, and Colombia will need all that experience if they are to win a first Copa America since 2001. AFP

Jefferson Lima, right (Bournemouth, Colombia): The tough tackling midfielder has 10 international caps and his athleticism is a huge asset. Reuters

Davinson Sanchez (Tottenham Hotspur, Colombia): The 23-year-old centre-back found himself relegated to a supporting role as Tottenham reached the Uefa Champions League final, ultimately losing to Liverpool 2-0 in the Madrid final. Has failed to replicate his outstanding form in his first season in England in 2017, but his pace and power make him a formidable opponent for strikers to navigate round. Reuters

Fabian Balbuena (West Ham United, Paraguay): The defender, 27, proved a solid acquisition alongside Issa Diop as West Ham secured a 10th-placed Premier League finish. Balbuena will need to be at his best if Paraguay are to shut out Group B rivals Argentina and Colombia. Qatar are the other team in Paraguay's group. Reuters

Miguel Almiron (Newcastle United, Paraguay): Joined the Premier League midway through the 2018/19 season after moving from Atlanta United to Newcastle United for a reported club fee of £21 million. The 25-year-old brought an energy and creative force to Rafa Benitez's staid side to help them comfortably avoid relegation. AFP

Lucas Torreira (Arsenal, Uruguay): The no-nonsense midfielder left a favourable impression on the Premier League after joining Arsenal from Sampdoria last summer. Smooth, intricate passing keeps the midfield engine running and never afraid to get stuck into a tackle. AFP

Antonio Valencia (Manchester United, Ecuador): The versatile 33-year-old is closing in on 100 caps for his country. Endured a poor season at Manchester United where he was sidelined through much of 2018/19 by injury and loss of form. Reuters

Shinji Okazaki (Leicester City, Japan): The 33-year-old striker was instrumental in helping Leicester win the 2016 Premier League title but has largely fallen by the way side since. A tireless workhorse who is most likely to play a bit-part role in Brazil. Japan are one of two invited teams at this year's Copa America, alongside Qatar. AFP

Alexis Sanchez (Manchester United, Chile): The forward, 30, scored only two goals for Manchester United in 2018/19 and is fast being viewed as the most expensive flop in the club's history. Has pedigree in the Copa, though, having won the last two editions with Chile. AFP

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The 11th-hour loss of prolific but problem-riddled Neymar to injury provides an unexpected opportunity to clarify a bubbling argument in Brazil. A growing number of the 27-year-old’s critics argue the Selecao would be a better team without their famous forward. He is, they say, with his simulation and celebrity selfies, more prima-dona than Maradona.

While Neymar’s explosive speed and individual brilliance can light up a game, his off-field controversies and on-field antics have threatened at times to turn Brazil into a source of ridicule rather than reverence. His teammates, now free from being forced to find their talisman with every ball, will be keen to show their own true level. And with a group containing Bolivia, Venezuela and Peru, progression should be a formality regardless. Whether the country ultimately cares remains to be seen.