Baghdad nights rejuvenated by Al Mutanabbi Street renovation


Sinan Mahmoud
  • English
  • Arabic

On a cold winter January night, a crowd sat on plastic chairs arranged in rows in front of an outdoor projection screen by the Tigris River on an Al Mutanabbi Street corner in Baghdad.

Mohammed Dakhil Al Khafaji took those present on a journey back in time to the heyday of Iraq during the 1970s and early 1980s through the lenses of his old reel-to-reel projector.

Renowned sculptor and artist Mohammed Ghani Hikmat (1929-2011) featured in a short film, busy in his workshop creating a statue of King Shahryar and Queen Shahrazad, the heroes of One Thousand and One Nights.

Other documentaries showed a day in the life of the pipe-smoking artist Faeq Hassan (1914-1992) with his students, as well as performances by Iraq’s National Band for Folk Arts and bygone scenes from Al Rasheed Street.

“Despite the cold weather the people were out because they love life,” Mr Al Khafaji told The National during the first night of his outdoor cinema event, made possible by the refurbishment of Al Mutanabbi Street, which has reclaimed its status as the cultural heart of Baghdad.

Rising from the ashes of war, neglect and instability, Baghdad is going through a cultural renaissance, raising hopes among its residents that Iraq is now on the road to recovery.

Al Mutanabbi Street, home to the city’s historic book market and the centre of the intellectual life, lies at the heart of that revival.

With donations from the Central Bank of Iraq and Iraqi Private Banks Association, Al Mutanabbi Street has undergone a facelift and reopened early this month, hosting Christmas and New Year celebrations and a series of cultural events.

The one-kilometre stretch of narrow colonnade has been repaved and the shops and yellow-brick buildings that flank either side of the famous street, some dating back to the Ottoman era, have been freshly painted and decorated.

New wooden benches were installed and stalls for street vendors have been set up as well as new lighting systems to illuminate the cultural activities and recreate the area’s former buzzing nightlife.

The refurbishment has encouraged people such as Mr Al Khafaji to show up. With the strong passion for cinema, the businessman, 54, co-founded the Cinema Fans Association in 2010 to bring the forgotten films back to life and preserve the country’s archive.

Like many other aspects of life in Iraq, cinema was badly hit after the 2003 US-led invasion that toppled Saddam Hussein. The country lost much of its archive in the vandalism that followed the dictator’s fall and cinemas closed their doors due to the fragile security situation.

Since its establishment, members of the association gather in each other's houses and host shows only on Friday morning at Al Mutanabbi Street when lovers of the arts usually converge.

“There is a huge gap between the two generations,” said Mr Al Khafaji, as songs from 1970s played in the background.

“The new generation has not seen cinema as we did and we are trying to make a connection between us and them.

He said Al Mutanabbi Street had given him the ideal platform to reach this goal.

The street lies in the heart of old Baghdad near Al Rasheed Street, which was built by the Ottomans in 1916 as a modern and prestigious avenue for government offices, military barracks and later nightclubs, coffee shops and commercial areas.

Then, Al Mutanabbi was known as Ekmek Khana, which means public bakery in Turkish, as its many bakeries served the Ottoman military.

  • Al Mutanabbi Street is home to a historic book market and the centre of intellectual life in Iraq's capital, Baghdad. Photo: Sinan Mahmoud / The National
    Al Mutanabbi Street is home to a historic book market and the centre of intellectual life in Iraq's capital, Baghdad. Photo: Sinan Mahmoud / The National
  • The street has undergone a facelift and reopened early this month.
    The street has undergone a facelift and reopened early this month.
  • People visit Al Mutanabbi Street to buy books, watch arts performances and celebrate festivals.
    People visit Al Mutanabbi Street to buy books, watch arts performances and celebrate festivals.
  • Street vendors and coffee shops also thrive in the area.
    Street vendors and coffee shops also thrive in the area.
  • The street lies in the heart of old Baghdad.
    The street lies in the heart of old Baghdad.
  • The revived Al Mutanabbi Street recently hosted Christmas and New Year celebrations.
    The revived Al Mutanabbi Street recently hosted Christmas and New Year celebrations.
  • A building's balconies freshly painted with Islamic motifs, on the street.
    A building's balconies freshly painted with Islamic motifs, on the street.
  • People look at books on sale.
    People look at books on sale.
  • The one-kilometre stretch of narrow colonnade has been repaved.
    The one-kilometre stretch of narrow colonnade has been repaved.
  • Authorities say they also want to recreate the area’s former buzzing nightlife.
    Authorities say they also want to recreate the area’s former buzzing nightlife.
  • Shops and yellow-brick buildings that flank either side of the famous street, some dating back to the Ottoman era, have been painted and decorated.
    Shops and yellow-brick buildings that flank either side of the famous street, some dating back to the Ottoman era, have been painted and decorated.
  • New wooden benches were installed and stalls for street vendors have been set up.
    New wooden benches were installed and stalls for street vendors have been set up.

In 1932, King Faisal I named the thoroughfare after the celebrated 10th century poet Abul Tayeb al-Mutanabbi, who was born under the Abbasid era.

The street began to attract business such as printing houses and bookshops, which were nestled alongside the government offices and courts.

The avenue bore the scars of war that hit Iraq from 2003. In 2007, a car bomb ripped through the market, killing at least 30 people and wounding 60. A year later, it was rebuilt but subsequent neglect left it almost in ruins.

The latest renovation came as delightful news for both traders and marketgoers.

“We’re thrilled with the new face of the market,” Duraid Abdul-Qadir, 50, owner of Al Qayrawan bookshop, told The National.

“The new renovation has boosted the identity of the place as a cultural and historic icon. We hope that maintenance and services will continue like this.”

He is hesitant to keep his shop open at night given security concerns, and says over time he will decide if it is feasible.

However, recent night activities such as art exhibitions and events have encouraged other bookshops, street vendors and coffee shops to service customers until the later hours.

Visiting Al Mutabbani Street brings back memories of student life in the 1960s for Jawad Al Shiraifi. Then, he would come to buy books and meet friends with whom he shared a passion for art.

“It is unusual to feel such atmosphere in Baghdad that brings beauty and entertainment together,” said Mr Al Shiraifi, a 75-year-old retired history teacher.

“The destination has become a breather and a place where people can escape from the problems that surround them in their life,” he said, sitting on a bench on the banks of Tigris.

On a sunny day, Tabark Abbas poses for a picture next to the bronze statue of Al Mutabbani.

“The renovation brings out the beauty of Baghdad,” said Ms Abbas, 20, a law student. “Such places must be renovated like this.

“Being here removes the negative energy and brings about the positive vibes to keep me going on.”

Sri Lanka squad

Dinesh Chandimal, Dimuth Karunaratne, Kaushal Silva, Kusal Mendis, Angelo Mathews, Lahiru Thirimanne, Niroshan Dickwella, Sadeera Samarawickrama, Rangana Herath, Suranga Lakmal, Nuwan Pradeep, Lakshan Sandakan, Vishwa Fernando, Lahiru Kumara, Jeffrey Vandersay, Milinda Siriwardana, Roshen Silva, Akila Dananjaya, Charith Asalanka, Shaminda Eranga and Dhammika Prasad.

The specs

Engine: 1.6-litre 4-cyl turbo

Power: 217hp at 5,750rpm

Torque: 300Nm at 1,900rpm

Transmission: eight-speed auto

Price: from Dh130,000

On sale: now

How to apply for a drone permit
  • Individuals must register on UAE Drone app or website using their UAE Pass
  • Add all their personal details, including name, nationality, passport number, Emiratis ID, email and phone number
  • Upload the training certificate from a centre accredited by the GCAA
  • Submit their request
What are the regulations?
  • Fly it within visual line of sight
  • Never over populated areas
  • Ensure maximum flying height of 400 feet (122 metres) above ground level is not crossed
  • Users must avoid flying over restricted areas listed on the UAE Drone app
  • Only fly the drone during the day, and never at night
  • Should have a live feed of the drone flight
  • Drones must weigh 5 kg or less
Stamp%20duty%20timeline
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDecember%202014%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%20Former%20UK%20chancellor%20of%20the%20Exchequer%20George%20Osborne%20reforms%20stamp%20duty%20land%20tax%20(SDLT)%2C%20replacing%20the%20slab%20system%20with%20a%20blended%20rate%20scheme%2C%20with%20the%20top%20rate%20increasing%20to%2012%20per%20cent%20from%2010%20per%20cent%3A%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EUp%20to%20%C2%A3125%2C000%20%E2%80%93%200%25%3B%20%C2%A3125%2C000%20to%20%C2%A3250%2C000%20%E2%80%93%202%25%3B%20%C2%A3250%2C000%20to%20%C2%A3925%2C000%20%E2%80%93%205%25%3B%20%C2%A3925%2C000%20to%20%C2%A31.5m%3A%2010%25%3B%20More%20than%20%C2%A31.5m%20%E2%80%93%2012%25%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EApril%202016%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20New%203%25%20surcharge%20applied%20to%20any%20buy-to-let%20properties%20or%20additional%20homes%20purchased.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EJuly%202020%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Chancellor%20Rishi%20Sunak%20unveils%20SDLT%20holiday%2C%20with%20no%20tax%20to%20pay%20on%20the%20first%20%C2%A3500%2C000%2C%20with%20buyers%20saving%20up%20to%20%C2%A315%2C000.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EMarch%202021%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Mr%20Sunak%20extends%20the%20SDLT%20holiday%20at%20his%20March%203%20budget%20until%20the%20end%20of%20June.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EApril%202021%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202%25%20SDLT%20surcharge%20added%20to%20property%20transactions%20made%20by%20overseas%20buyers.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EJune%202021%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20SDLT%20holiday%20on%20transactions%20up%20to%20%C2%A3500%2C000%20expires%20on%20June%2030.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EJuly%202021%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Tax%20break%20on%20transactions%20between%20%C2%A3125%2C000%20to%20%C2%A3250%2C000%20starts%20on%20July%201%20and%20runs%20until%20September%2030.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
How to increase your savings
  • Have a plan for your savings.
  • Decide on your emergency fund target and once that's achieved, assign your savings to another financial goal such as saving for a house or investing for retirement.
  • Decide on a financial goal that is important to you and put your savings to work for you.
  • It's important to have a purpose for your savings as it helps to keep you motivated to continue while also reducing the temptation to spend your savings. 

- Carol Glynn, founder of Conscious Finance Coaching

 

 

Teri%20Baaton%20Mein%20Aisa%20Uljha%20Jiya
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirectors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Amit%20Joshi%20and%20Aradhana%20Sah%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECast%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Shahid%20Kapoor%2C%20Kriti%20Sanon%2C%20Dharmendra%2C%20Dimple%20Kapadia%2C%20Rakesh%20Bedi%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The biog

First Job: Abu Dhabi Department of Petroleum in 1974  
Current role: Chairperson of Al Maskari Holding since 2008
Career high: Regularly cited on Forbes list of 100 most powerful Arab Businesswomen
Achievement: Helped establish Al Maskari Medical Centre in 1969 in Abu Dhabi’s Western Region
Future plan: Will now concentrate on her charitable work

COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EShaffra%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2023%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDIFC%20Innovation%20Hub%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Emetaverse-as-a-Service%20(MaaS)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Ecurrently%20closing%20%241.5%20million%20seed%20round%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20stage%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Epre-seed%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFlat6Labs%20Abu%20Dhabi%20and%20different%20PCs%20and%20angel%20investors%20from%20Saudi%20Arabia%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20staff%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Enine%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Museum of the Future in numbers
  •  78 metres is the height of the museum
  •  30,000 square metres is its total area
  •  17,000 square metres is the length of the stainless steel facade
  •  14 kilometres is the length of LED lights used on the facade
  •  1,024 individual pieces make up the exterior 
  •  7 floors in all, with one for administrative offices
  •  2,400 diagonally intersecting steel members frame the torus shape
  •  100 species of trees and plants dot the gardens
  •  Dh145 is the price of a ticket
FA CUP FINAL

Manchester City 6
(D Silva 26', Sterling 38', 81', 87', De Bruyne 61', Jesus 68')

Watford 0

Man of the match: Bernardo Silva (Manchester City)

Avatar: Fire and Ash

Director: James Cameron

Starring: Sam Worthington, Sigourney Weaver, Zoe Saldana

Rating: 4.5/5

Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Inside%20Out%202
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%C2%A0%3C%2Fstrong%3EKelsey%20Mann%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%C2%A0Amy%20Poehler%2C%20Maya%20Hawke%2C%20Ayo%20Edebiri%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E4.5%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
From Zero

Artist: Linkin Park

Label: Warner Records

Number of tracks: 11

Rating: 4/5

How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE

When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.

ROUTE%20TO%20TITLE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERound%201%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Beat%20Leolia%20Jeanjean%206-1%2C%206-2%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERound%202%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EBeat%20Naomi%20Osaka%207-6%2C%201-6%2C%207-5%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERound%203%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EBeat%20Marie%20Bouzkova%206-4%2C%206-2%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERound%204%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Beat%20Anastasia%20Potapova%206-0%2C%206-0%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EQuarter-final%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EBeat%20Marketa%20Vondrousova%206-0%2C%206-2%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESemi-final%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EBeat%20Coco%20Gauff%206-2%2C%206-4%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFinal%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Beat%20Jasmine%20Paolini%206-2%2C%206-2%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
How Filipinos in the UAE invest

A recent survey of 10,000 Filipino expatriates in the UAE found that 82 per cent have plans to invest, primarily in property. This is significantly higher than the 2014 poll showing only two out of 10 Filipinos planned to invest.

Fifty-five percent said they plan to invest in property, according to the poll conducted by the New Perspective Media Group, organiser of the Philippine Property and Investment Exhibition. Acquiring a franchised business or starting up a small business was preferred by 25 per cent and 15 per cent said they will invest in mutual funds. The rest said they are keen to invest in insurance (3 per cent) and gold (2 per cent).

Of the 5,500 respondents who preferred property as their primary investment, 54 per cent said they plan to make the purchase within the next year. Manila was the top location, preferred by 53 per cent.

A timeline of the Historical Dictionary of the Arabic Language
  • 2018: Formal work begins
  • November 2021: First 17 volumes launched 
  • November 2022: Additional 19 volumes released
  • October 2023: Another 31 volumes released
  • November 2024: All 127 volumes completed
The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting 

2. Prayer 

3. Hajj 

4. Shahada 

5. Zakat 

What is a black hole?

1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull

2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight

3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge

4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own

5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed

RESULT

Liverpool 4 Southampton 0
Jota (2', 32')
Thiago (37')
Van Dijk (52')

Man of the match: Diogo Jota (Liverpool)

Scores in brief:

  • New Medical Centre 129-5 in 17 overs bt Zayed Cricket Academy 125-6 in 20 overs.
  • William Hare Abu Dhabi Gymkhana 188-8 in 20 overs bt One Stop Tourism 184-8 in 20 overs
  • Alubond Tigers 138-7 in 20 overs bt United Bank Limited 132-7 in 20 overs
  • Multiplex 142-6 in 17 overs bt Xconcepts Automobili 140 all out in 20 overs
Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Nag%20Ashwin%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EPrabhas%2C%20Saswata%20Chatterjee%2C%20Deepika%20Padukone%2C%20Amitabh%20Bachchan%2C%20Shobhana%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%E2%98%85%E2%98%85%E2%98%85%E2%98%85%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Global state-owned investor ranking by size

1.

United States

2.

China

3.

UAE

4.

Japan

5

Norway

6.

Canada

7.

Singapore

8.

Australia

9.

Saudi Arabia

10.

South Korea

Updated: January 28, 2022, 4:36 AM