Meet Egypt’s Sinai Bedouins marking Ramadan with goat ghee, shisha and store-bought coffee

Preparations for communal gatherings begin 10 days before the start of Ramadan

A Bedouin tribesman with a young boy and camel during Ramadan in the Jubail area of the Sinai. Yusri Mohammad

Bedouins in the Sinai drink traditional coffee after Iftar meals during Ramadan. Yusri Mohammad

A Bedouin woman in the Sinai, near Jubail. Yusri Mohammad

A first course of lamb and rice is served for Iftar at Ramadan for Bedouins in the Sinai. Yusri Mohammad

A Bedouin house in Sinai, near Jubail. Yusri Mohammad

Bedouins in the Sinai break their fast during Ramadan. Yusri Mohammad

A Bedouin woman in the Sinai tends to goats. Yusri Mohammad

Bedouin men drink coffee and talk late into the night after Iftar. Yusri Mohammad

Bedouin men talk after Iftar in the Sinai. Yusri Mohammad

Bedouins are seated for Iftar during Ramadan. Yusri Mohammad

A Bedouin village in the Sinai. Yusri Mohammad

Among the sand dunes and valleys of the Sinai in Egypt, Bedouin tribes are keeping local traditions alive this Ramadan, with customs passed down through generations over hundreds of years.

Anticipating the call to maghrib prayers, members of Al Huwaitat and Al Mazinah tribes gather in a small seating area while the younger men sat out in the desert.

They wait at diwans, or tribal meeting halls, where daily fasts would soon end.

In the diwans, distinctly Bedouin designs are etched into seats and stitched into carpets surrounded by symbols of modern living – a TV set, an air conditioner and a refrigerator.

Bedouin iftar

Bedouin men ride camels in front of the monastery of St Catherine in Saint Catherine city in Egypt's South Sinai Governorate. Egypt has been hit hard by the Covid-19 pandemic and received only 10,000 tourists a day in the last quarter of 2020. EPA

A view of the monastery of St Catherine in on the outskirts of Saint Catherine city in Egypt's South Sinai governorate. Egypt has been hit hard by the Covid-19 pandemic, receiving only 10,000 tourists a day in the last quarter of 2020. EPA

A Bedouin vendor waits for customers making their way from Mount Moses in Saint Catherine city in Egypt's, South Sinai Governorate. EPA

Tourists walk towards the monastery of St Catherine after watching the sunrise on top of Mount Moses, in Saint Catherine city of Egypt's South Sinai Governorate. EPA

Tourists watch the sunrise outside a church on the top of Mount Moses, in Saint Catherine city in Egypt's South Sinai Governorate. EPA

Tourists make their way towards the monastery of St Catherine, after watching the sunrise on top of Mount Moses in Saint Catherine city, in Egypt's South Sinai Governorate. EPA

A tourist watches the sunrise outside a church on the top of Mount Moses, in Saint Catherine city, South Sinai, Egypt. EPA

Tourists make their way towards the monastery of Saint Catherine, after watching the sunrise on top of Mount Moses, in Saint Catherine city, South Sinai, Egypt. EPA

A Bedouin man waits with a camel in front of the monastery of St Catherine in Saint Catherine city, South Sinai, Egypt. EPA

Tourists watch the sunrise outside a church on the top of Mount Moses in Saint Catherine city, South Sinai, Egypt. EPA

As radio speakers crackle with the call to prayer, the tribesmen prepare to take their first bite of food from containers placed on handmade carpets.

In a display that unites the old with the new, mountains of rice and goat meat placed on massive trays will be their first meal of the day. They will wash it all down with fizzy drinks and mineral water.

Al Huwaitat tribesman Sheikh Fareej Salem, host of this Ramadan feast, says preparations for the mass gatherings begin 10 days before the holy month starts.

"The Bedouins set up special areas stocked with food and drinks from family homes in nearby valleys where people can have iftar if they happen to be passing by," he says.

One of Ramadan's staples among the Bedouins of Sinai is el gareesha – a dish made from crushed wheat, goat ghee, cumin, herbs and lentils – and zalabiya, a flour-based, deep-fried, sugar-coated dessert.

Tribal laws 

Aside from the colourful aspects of Ramadan in the Sinai that have been kept alive for generations, unique social norms are also still observed.

Couples are not allowed to get married in Ramadan, according to Bedouin traditions. Customary court sessions are also suspended for all cases except murder, when an initial hearing is held and then the case is postponed until the month is over.

"Customary law is firm and strict and compulsory for all tribes that wish to sort matters away from city courts and police stations," says Eid Salem, a member of Al Huwaitat tribe.

After dark

Over a pile of lit wood, two pots full of tea and coffee come to a boil while plumes of shisha smoke rise from among the newly fed Bedouins who consider Arabic coffee the official drink for Ramadan gatherings, especially if the month falls at hotter times of year.

The coffee, once roasted in bulk and prepared each day for a night of meetings, catch-ups and conversations after iftar, is now bought freshly ground from sellers. Each serving is enjoyed with a date or two.