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Compared to much of the past five months, the atmosphere in Jerusalem’s Muslim Quarter during the last Friday prayers before Ramadan seemed positive.
The streets around Al Aqsa Mosque were busier than usual, more shops were open and Israeli security forces turned away fewer worshippers than in the months since October 7 when the Gaza war began, prompting strict age limits for entry to the mosque compound and forcing the vast majority to pray outside its gates.
However, things are still far from normal, particularly for the period leading up to Ramadan.
The Muslim Quarter should have been packed with Palestinians shopping in preparation for the holiest month in the Islamic calendar, with foreign pilgrims arriving in greater numbers. And people should not have been going about their day so quietly, with eyes trained tensely on the ground.
“Israelis in the media started the problematic idea that this Ramadan will be one of bloodshed – they shouldn’t have, it’s a big mistake,” says Abu El Walid Dajani, a hotelier in the Old City, expressing frustration at the suggestion that the holy month could be the spark for an escalation of violence between Israelis and Palestinians.
“What’s their idea? That Muslims are killers? That they are waiting for Ramadan to come to start killing? This is not Islam,” he adds.
“If I was Israeli, I would not put the idea that Ramadan will be something big in the heads of young people. If I was them, I’d put stalls giving out food for free on Jaffa Gate.”
But it is still a question on the minds of people across the Holy Land and beyond.
Hamas has called on Palestinians to barricade themselves within the walls of Al Aqsa, the third holiest site in Islam, and Israel’s far right seems determined to use the war in Gaza as cover to exercise extra control over the area, which is also of great religious significance in Judaism.
Many Palestinians say celebration feels impossible due to the brutality of the Gaza war, which appears to have no end in sight after repeated failures to broker an extended truce.
Palestinians in Gaza are clinging on to life as Israel's military continues its bombardment and ground operations, and the humanitarian crisis grows increasingly desperate.
It is not so desperate for Palestinians outside Gaza but there is still huge anger. No Palestinians from the occupied West Bank can access Jerusalem, a painful restriction on worship for people from the area and a damaging hit to the income of Old City business owners for whom Ramadan should be a particularly profitable time.
Even for Palestinians in Israel, this is set to be one of the most restricted Ramadans in some time.
In recent weeks, Palestinians and Israelis have been sounding the alarm over radical plans by Israel’s far-right National Security Minister Itamar Ben-Gvir to impose tough restrictions on the number of Palestinian citizens of Israel who can visit Al Aqsa.
Many of his critics accuse the “pyromaniac” minister of trying to ignite a “holy war” to advance his goal of more Jewish settlements in the occupied territories.
Reports emerged this week that, contrary to Mr Ben-Gvir’s wishes and on the advice of large sections of Israel’s security services, severe restrictions will not be imposed.
Only the coming weeks will tell if this is enough to keep a lid on tensions.
For now, the largely silent and sombre mood around Al Aqsa, the symbol at the heart of the conflict between Palestinians and Israelis, indicates a period of great uncertainty.
Biography
Favourite Meal: Chicken Caesar salad
Hobbies: Travelling, going to the gym
Inspiration: Father, who was a captain in the UAE army
Favourite read: Rich Dad Poor Dad by Robert Kiyosaki and Sharon Lechter
Favourite film: The Founder, about the establishment of McDonald's
The biog
Favourite books: 'Ruth Bader Ginsburg: A Life' by Jane D. Mathews and ‘The Moment of Lift’ by Melinda Gates
Favourite travel destination: Greece, a blend of ancient history and captivating nature. It always has given me a sense of joy, endless possibilities, positive energy and wonderful people that make you feel at home.
Favourite pastime: travelling and experiencing different cultures across the globe.
Favourite quote: “In the future, there will be no female leaders. There will just be leaders” - Sheryl Sandberg, COO of Facebook.
Favourite Movie: Mona Lisa Smile
Favourite Author: Kahlil Gibran
Favourite Artist: Meryl Streep
Key findings of Jenkins report
- Founder of the Muslim Brotherhood, Hassan al Banna, "accepted the political utility of violence"
- Views of key Muslim Brotherhood ideologue, Sayyid Qutb, have “consistently been understood” as permitting “the use of extreme violence in the pursuit of the perfect Islamic society” and “never been institutionally disowned” by the movement.
- Muslim Brotherhood at all levels has repeatedly defended Hamas attacks against Israel, including the use of suicide bombers and the killing of civilians.
- Laying out the report in the House of Commons, David Cameron told MPs: "The main findings of the review support the conclusion that membership of, association with, or influence by the Muslim Brotherhood should be considered as a possible indicator of extremism."
The Vile
Starring: Bdoor Mohammad, Jasem Alkharraz, Iman Tarik, Sarah Taibah
Director: Majid Al Ansari
Rating: 4/5
Know before you go
- Jebel Akhdar is a two-hour drive from Muscat airport or a six-hour drive from Dubai. It’s impossible to visit by car unless you have a 4x4. Phone ahead to the hotel to arrange a transfer.
- If you’re driving, make sure your insurance covers Oman.
- By air: Budget airlines Air Arabia, Flydubai and SalamAir offer direct routes to Muscat from the UAE.
- Tourists from the Emirates (UAE nationals not included) must apply for an Omani visa online before arrival at evisa.rop.gov.om. The process typically takes several days.
- Flash floods are probable due to the terrain and a lack of drainage. Always check the weather before venturing into any canyons or other remote areas and identify a plan of escape that includes high ground, shelter and parking where your car won’t be overtaken by sudden downpours.
More on Quran memorisation:
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Thank You for Banking with Us
Director: Laila Abbas
Starring: Yasmine Al Massri, Clara Khoury, Kamel El Basha, Ashraf Barhoum
Rating: 4/5
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The Cairo Statement
1: Commit to countering all types of terrorism and extremism in all their manifestations
2: Denounce violence and the rhetoric of hatred
3: Adhere to the full compliance with the Riyadh accord of 2014 and the subsequent meeting and executive procedures approved in 2014 by the GCC
4: Comply with all recommendations of the Summit between the US and Muslim countries held in May 2017 in Saudi Arabia.
5: Refrain from interfering in the internal affairs of countries and of supporting rogue entities.
6: Carry out the responsibility of all the countries with the international community to counter all manifestations of extremism and terrorism that threaten international peace and security
How the bonus system works
The two riders are among several riders in the UAE to receive the top payment of £10,000 under the Thank You Fund of £16 million (Dh80m), which was announced in conjunction with Deliveroo's £8 billion (Dh40bn) stock market listing earlier this year.
The £10,000 (Dh50,000) payment is made to those riders who have completed the highest number of orders in each market.
There are also riders who will receive payments of £1,000 (Dh5,000) and £500 (Dh2,500).
All riders who have worked with Deliveroo for at least one year and completed 2,000 orders will receive £200 (Dh1,000), the company said when it announced the scheme.