A first look at Demna's Gucci, and Noon by Noor wows at London Fashion Week

Designer makes an unexpected drop, kicking off Milan Fashion Week a day early

La Contessa from the first collection by Demna for Gucci, spring summer 2026. Photo: Gucci

We all knew the shows for the spring/summer 2026 season would be hectic as they're marking the debut of many designers at big-name brands, but already, Gucci has upped the ante.

Although having replaced its runway show with a smaller presentation, new designer Demna (formerly of Balenciaga) has not had enough time to put an entire collection together yet, having only been at the helm a few weeks. It seems Demna may not have received the memo.

On the last day of London Fashion Week, and hours ahead of the finale show of Burberry, Gucci quietly dropped its first – albeit smaller – collection by Demna on its Instagram page, a full day before Milan Fashion Week starts.

Called La Famiglia, the photographs, shot by Catherine Opie, reveal a series of 38 characters many of whom are decidedly Italian, such as La Bomba (in a fur jacket and little else) and Miss Aperitivo, all dressed with a dose of humour. Other archetypes include La Drama Queen, swathed in grey ostrich feathers; Nerd in skinny fit leather jacket and striped jumper, La VIP and even L’Influencer, head-to-toe in monogrammed blouse, skirt and boots.

La Drama Queen from the first collection by Demna for Gucci, spring summer 2026. Photo: Gucci

Gucci's official Fashion Week presentation, thought to be in the form of a film, will take place on Tuesday in Milan.

Gucci may have stolen all the headlines, but it takes nothing from a punchy London Fashion Week. Having flagged for several seasons, now LFW is under new leadership, as Laura Weir takes charge of its organising body, the British Fashion Council.

Nerd from the first collection by Demna for Gucci, spring summer 2026. Photo: Gucci

Vowing to reshape the entire ecosystem, already Weir's arrival has given it a shot in the arm, with veteran London model Naomi Campbell opening for Richard Quinn, as Roksanda Ilincic celebrated two decades of her eponymous Roksanda brand.

Irish designer Simone Rocha revealed a divisive new shoe – a platform ballet Croc, anyone? – while Lennon and Anais Gallagher (children of Liam and Noel respectively) sat front row at the H & M & 180 show.

Noon by Noor's collection was called Mirage. Photo: Noon by Noor

Bahraini label Noon by Noor unveiled its spring/summer 2026 show, with a collection called Mirage, that designers Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohamed Al Khalifa described as being “about the beauty of what you can’t quite hold on to”.

Translated as gossamer cotton fabric with a metallic shimmer, airy cotton silk, crumpled linen and silk chiffons, they delivered a light and effortless collection, cut into nonchalant, sports-tinged separates, and finished with hand knotted macrame belts and bandeau tops.

“Mirage is the shimmer of fabric as it catches the sun, the way a silhouette disappears into light. We wanted the collection to feel like that: delicate, fluid, always changing depending on how you see it,” explained Noor.

Built around a palette of faded khaki, white, pale gold, sand, blossom pink and a punchy Bahraini red, decoration was discreet, as laced details, pintucks and delicate ruching.

Noon by Noor spring/summer 2026 collection, show at London Fashion Week. Photo: Noon by Noor

A champagne metallic dress that echoed Studio 54’s heyday – 1970s model Verushka was another inspiration – had a sizzling plunging neckline, while a trompe-l'œil top in eye-popping Bahraini red arrived looking like a deconstructed safari jacket over trousers. A white bishop sleeve shirt was worn with matching short shorts.

Breezy and typically undone, this was another intelligent collection for Noon by Noor’s savvy, independent woman.