Small pleasures in Bahrain

The World Trade Center and skyine of Manama in Bahrain. Getty Images

A halwa shop in Bahrain. Photo by Rosemary Behan

A Bahrain oilfield. Photo by Rosemary Behan

The Seyadi Mosque, a Unesco-listed historic structure in Muharraq, Bahrain. Photo by Rosemary Behan

Beit Seyadi, a Unesco-listed structure in Muharraq, Bahrain's old capital, which developed largely because of the pearling industry. Photo by Rosemary Behan

A Dilmun-era settlement in Saar, Bahrain. The site contains a temple and is one of many bronze-age ruins in the country. Photo by Rosemary Behan

Bahrain Fort in Manama, the country's capital. Photo by Rosemary Behan

Breakfast in Bahrain. Photo by Rosemary Behan

The Bahrain National Museum in Manama. Photo by Rosemary Behan

The Manama skyline from the new Four Seasons Bahrain Bay. Photo by Rosemary Behan

Why Bahrain?

Despite its size – Bahrain is the world’s smallest Arab state – this archipelago of 33 islands packs in a surprising amount. The biggest island, Bahrain Island, is 55 kilometres long and 18km wide, and the whole country has a population of about 1.2 million, of whom about half are non-nationals. You’ll find locals driving taxis, staffing museums and running restaurants – all of which underlines a sense of authenticity and a history that goes back thousands of years.

Humans began developing Bahrain 6,000 years ago thanks to the island’s abundance of fresh water, which made it a hub on the trade route between Mesopotamia and South Asia. Evidence of the Dilmun and other civilisations can be explored at a handful of world-class historical sites, such as Bahrain Fort and the Saar burial mounds. The islands’ history of trade continues, with business, tourism and oil spawning a variety of interrelated industries and a zesty mix of people. Most sites are free or cheap to enter, and blissfully free of crowds.

A comfortable bed

In the capital, Manama, there are dozens of internationally branded hotels. The striking new Four Seasons Bahrain Bay (www.fourseasons.com/bahrain), set on its own private island overlooking the Corniche and boasting not one but two Wolfgang Puck restaurants, is the place of choice. Double rooms cost from 145 Bahraini dinars (Dh1,412) per night, including taxes and Wi-Fi, but excluding breakfast.

If you prefer more of a holiday atmosphere and want to try the Gulf's only thalassotherapy centre, stay at the Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa (www.sofitel.com). Doubles at this west-coast resort cost from US$250 (Dh918) per night, including taxes and breakfast.

Find your feet

Your first stops should be the Bahrain National Museum and the massive Bahrain Fort, built by the Portuguese in the 1500s over much older remains – walk right round the ramparts and then see the adjacent exhibitions (www.bahrain.com). But the old centre of Bahrain's nearby third-largest city and old capital Muharraq, home to a number of Unesco-listed buildings, is the place to soak in the atmosphere of pre-oil Arabia – from the second to the 20th century, Bahrain was the centre of the Gulf pearling industry. The restored Shaikh Issa Bin Ali House was built circa 1800 using local materials including coral stones, gypsum and palm-tree trunks. There are four main sections and a wind tower.

Nearby is Siyadi House, built circa 1900 by a pearl merchant, Ahmed bin Jassim Siyadi. The exterior boasts some exquisite wooden windows with stained glass and latticework, and inside, on the ground floor, is a soaring painted wooden ceiling. Next to the house is an old-style minaret, and the surrounding streets offer other, smaller historic buildings, art galleries and museums.

Meet the locals

Back on Bahrain Island, and in complete contrast to Muharraq, are the adjacent districts of Adliya and Block 338, a trendy, upscale neighbourhood of pedestrianised streets and low-rise villas, many of which have been converted into restaurants with attractive garden areas. From big brand restaurants such as The Meat Company to small French patisseries run by locals, this is where people come either to relax or party.

Book a table

For a fantastic traditional Bahraini breakfast, head to Haji’s Cafe on Al Muthanna Avenue, off Government Road, near Manama Souq and Bab Al Bahrain. A family business since 1950, its building dates from 1927 and features several air-conditioned, traditional-style rooms, plus seating outside. Family memorabilia and the kitchens themselves are available for perusal, but best of all is the home-cooked food – traditional bread that you can dip in fresh local cream, as well as omelettes, chickpeas, karak tea and baladi cheese – all of this will only set you back about 4 dinars (Dh39) for two. It’s open from 5am until 9pm, so also serves lunch and dinner.

Villa Mamas in Saar is a rustic Mediterranean-style restaurant-villa founded by the Bahraini restaurateur Roaya Saleh. It opened in 2011, and has a varied menu, featuring both local and international dishes, and is unique in terms of ambience. Hammour salma costs 12 dinars (Dh117) and tamarind kingfish 10.50 dinars (Dh102). Its thick smoothies, which are served in jars, are ideal for cooling down after a trip to nearby ruins.

Shopper’s paradise

The best local buys are pottery, textiles, handicrafts and sweets. The village of A’ali houses extraordinary 4,000-year-old archaeological mounds, and is a centre for clay pottery, especially jars, bowls, incense burners, planters and vases. The village of Bani Jamra still has a few textile-weaving workshops, where cotton imported from India and China is woven into brightly checked cloth. This can be bought in the village or from the Al Jasra Handicrafts Centre.

Muharraq Souq is best known for its halwa shops, some of which make it in front of you by boiling butter, sugar and water, then adding rosewater, cardamom, saffron and nuts; 1 kilogram costs 6 dinars (Dh58). Hussain Mohammed Showaiter Sweets, a family business that has been going since 1850, has branches all over Bahrain.

What to avoid

Monitor the security situation and avoid demonstrations and protests, which can turn violent.

Don’t miss

If you have a day to spare, take a trip to the Oil Museum in the centre of the island. The trip will take you through the country’s oilfields, offering a closer view of the oil industry, with its pumps, pipelines and refineries.

Go there

Etihad Airways (www.etihad.com) flies direct from Abu Dhabi to Bahrain from Dh800 return, including taxes.

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