Why Hull?
When Hull was named as the UK Capital of Culture 2017, a few eyebrows were raised. It’s one of those cities that is regularly overlooked, in a lonely position on the east coast of northern England, and not handily en route between any two other major cities.
But a bit of investigation shows that being awarded the Capital of Culture title wasn’t too wide of the mark. Rather on the quiet, Hull has built a strong artistic and musical heritage, from poet Philip Larkin to The Beautiful South pop/rock group. The port city also turns out to have a rather fabulous collection of museums and attractions that cover everything from Hull’s role in the abolition of slavery to deep-ocean research.
A comfortable bed
There’s no point in pretending that Hull’s hotel stock is impressive – the city is in clear need of a few new openings.
The Mercure Royal is essentially inside the train station, and it has the expansive lobby that's suggestive of a great railway hotel. Everything's perfectly acceptable, clean and comfortable, but it lacks the licks of grandeur that would make it memorable. Doubles cost from £69 (Dh316).
Brighter, more modern and airier is the Holiday Inn Hull Marina. Rooms are stock standard chain fare, but many have rather lovely water views. Prices start at about £135 (Dh617).
The 17-room Kingston Theatre Hotel has gorgeous Victorian tile work, and a slightly prissy B&B feel to it. It's dainty, and a little old-fashioned, but will suit those who want English charm. Doubles cost from £88 (Dh403).
Find your feet
There’s a trail of decorative fish, mostly carved into buildings and pavements, around the oldest part of the city, and following the route is as good a way as any to explore.
High Street has a cluster of museums, with the Hull & East Riding Museum giving an impressive regional history museum through millennia-old boats, a towering woolly mammoth and some staggeringly well-preserved mosaics. The Streetlife Museum of Transport, meanwhile, is all vintage cars, trains and trams.
High Street runs parallel to the River Hull. Take a breezy walk along there past the guillotine-esque tidal surge barrier to the mighty Humber estuary. The striking, angular-looking building by the water's edge is The Deep, an absolutely fantastic aquarium that goes way beyond staring at fish in tanks. It works as a biological history lesson too, tracing back to beginnings of life on Earth, and how land creatures evolved from now-extinct giants of the sea.
Meet the locals
Running with the culture theme, the Hull Truck Theatre Company has one of the best reputations in Britain, and its permanent base is a couple of hundred metres away from the train station. It has a long-standing relationship with former artistic director and top-drawer playwright John Godber, but puts admirable variation into the production calendar.
Book a table
The Fruit Market area is quickly becoming hip, and new restaurant Butler Whites is very impressive. Inside a former strawberry and mushroom warehouse, it has portrait art on the railings, big studded leather couches and chunky wooden tables. Portions are hearty, and the £18 (Dh83) Barnsley lambchop with spinach, kale and goat's cheese bonbons is superb.
Kardomah 94 fits the cultural theme, with a busy calendar of open mic, poetry and musical performances, plus some heavy-topped pizzas that throw in some unconventional ingredients.
Shopper’s paradise
The Trinity Market has an unobtrusive entrance, but it is home to the rather adorable Spin It vinyl record shop. The owner has covered the surrounding area in a display highlighting "the Famous Side of Hull". It's largely pictures and mini-biographies of prominent Hullensians, from actor Tom Courtenay to film guru J Arthur Rank.
Joining onto the market is Hepworth Arcade, which is lined with independent shops. Beasley's is split into vintage American clothing on one side, and a marvellous array of hats on the other.
What to avoid
When it opened in 1981, the Humber Bridge was the longest single-span suspension bridge in the world. But it’s best admired from afar rather than crossed – there’s a toll, and there’s not an awful lot to see on the other side in dreary North Lincolnshire.
Don’t miss
The highlight of the Museums Quarter is Wilberforce House, which was the home of former British MP William Wilberforce. Ordinarily, a parliamentarian’s house wouldn’t be particularly interesting, but Wilberforce was the man who led the campaign to abolish the trans-Atlantic slave trade.
The house is now a museum which takes an unflinching look at the horrors of slavery, the efforts made to abolish it and the vested interests the campaigners came up against.
And after all the chains, grotesquely crowded ships and systematic floggings comes an unsettling look at slavery today. Wilberforce, alas, didn’t fully wipe out the practice.
Getting there
Both Emirates and Etihad fly direct to Manchester from Dubai and Abu Dhabi, respectively. Economy class returns cost from Dh3,460. From Manchester airport, trains take just over two-and-a-half hours to reach Hull, costing from £16.10 (Dh74).
