The ugly side of the fashion world

Models get ready backstage at the São Paulo Fashion Week, where the European look remained popular.

Fashion loves controversy, but there are three issues that have plagued the industry over the years: skinny models, exploitation of child models and racism. There have been, of course, a number of highly successful black models, from veterans such as Naomi Campbell and Alek Wek to the newer faces like Chanel Iman and Liya Kebede. But count up the faces on magazine covers, editorial shoots and catwalk shows and the overwhelming majority of models are Caucasian.

What could explain French Vogue's tasteless decision to shoot the Dutch model Lara Stone in blackface last year and L'Officiel Homme's shoot this spring, in which the Brazilian model Arthur Sales was painted dark brown and given an Afro wig and an Al Jolson-style imbecilic grin? Understandably it caused an outcry. Interestingly, Brazil and its highly rated São Paulo Fashion Week have had more than their fair share of these controversies, with race the foremost issue right now.

In a country in which 50 per cent of the population describe themselves as black or mixed race but that is known more for its European-looking model exports, it was a small but significant step when a quota was imposed on the fashion week last year, ensuring at least 10 per cent of the models had indigenous or African blood. However, one year on and the model scouts of Brazil appear to still be fixated on the Nordic and Eastern European look: a New York Times article recently followed Brazilian model scouts as they sought out skinny schoolgirls with German and Slavic roots from the southern state of Rio Grande do Sul, where more than half of the country's models have been discovered, including Gisele Bündchen, spotted at 13, and Raquel Zimmerman, who was discovered at 14 years old.

And this season, the most attention-grabbing model at São Paulo continued to be Gisele, who made her first post-baby catwalk appearance at the Colcci show. Quotas and positive discrimination may not sit well with an industry that thrives on rebellion and contrariness, but the fashion world's defensive stance can stand little scrutiny. One can only look forward to the day when a Samantha Harris or a Jourdan Dunn are considered no more thrilling than any other exquisitely lovely fashion model.