Ten best moments from autumn winter 2020 Men's Paris Fashion Week


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The final shows of fashion week always take place in the spiritual heartland of fashion, Paris, where often the best - and most elaborate - ideas are kept until last. Autumn-winter 2020 has been no exception, so here are the ten best takeaways from the Parisian runway.

1. Kim Jones referenced women's haute couture at Dior Men

Only Jones has the vision to look to Dior's famous haute couture for inspiration. The result? Extraordinarily beautiful opera swing coats and long gloves for men, that mixed the suiting and streetwear of a modern dandy to absolute perfection.

2. Paul Smith just celebrated 50 years in the industry

With a name now synonymous with suits and tailoring, Paul Smith just marked half a century by delivering a masterclass in the art of the suit, from double breasted to double denim.

3. Vetements put Mike Tyson on the runway (sort of)

The first show without co-founder Demna Gvasalia felt a bit disjointed, but to make up for the lack of pizzaz in the clothes, it put Kate Moss and Mike Tyson look-a-like's on the runway.

4. Craig Green made looks for the modern warrior

Showing in Paris for the first time, Brit designer Green delivered a new take on Samurai armour, now made for the urban commuter from deconstructed bags and toggle cords.

5. Louis Vuitton carved its monogram into a shirt

After taking some breathing space last year, menswear designer Virgil Abloh is back and lazer cut the Louis Vuitton motif into a work shirt, that felt so natural we all wondered why no one had done it before.

6. Arabic at Lanvin 

Lanvin included Arabic cartoons as it riffed through a graphic novel theme.

7. Shoulder panniers at Loewe

Jonathan Anderson turned the women's Gate bag into across-the-shoulder pannier bags for men, and the internet lost its mind.

8. Givenchy reinvented the cowboy

By side fastening a checked jacket with a jewelled pin, and adding a cowboy hat. Worn low on the browbones, the hat is a bona fide thing.

9. Floor length shirts at Balmain

A few labels offered long tunics, but Balmain went all out with shirts that reached to the ankle. Worn over trousers and under blazers, the mix of lengths was dazzling.

10. Double trousers at Jacquemus

At first glance we thought the models trousers had been left undone until we realised this was actually some very clever trompe l'oeil tailoring.

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

Company profile

Name: Steppi

Founders: Joe Franklin and Milos Savic

Launched: February 2020

Size: 10,000 users by the end of July and a goal of 200,000 users by the end of the year

Employees: Five

Based: Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai

Financing stage: Two seed rounds – the first sourced from angel investors and the founders' personal savings

Second round raised Dh720,000 from silent investors in June this year

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Who's who in Yemen conflict

Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government

Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council

Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south

Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory

UAE v Gibraltar

What: International friendly

When: 7pm kick off

Where: Rugby Park, Dubai Sports City

Admission: Free

Online: The match will be broadcast live on Dubai Exiles’ Facebook page

UAE squad: Lucas Waddington (Dubai Exiles), Gio Fourie (Exiles), Craig Nutt (Abu Dhabi Harlequins), Phil Brady (Harlequins), Daniel Perry (Dubai Hurricanes), Esekaia Dranibota (Harlequins), Matt Mills (Exiles), Jaen Botes (Exiles), Kristian Stinson (Exiles), Murray Reason (Abu Dhabi Saracens), Dave Knight (Hurricanes), Ross Samson (Jebel Ali Dragons), DuRandt Gerber (Exiles), Saki Naisau (Dragons), Andrew Powell (Hurricanes), Emosi Vacanau (Harlequins), Niko Volavola (Dragons), Matt Richards (Dragons), Luke Stevenson (Harlequins), Josh Ives (Dubai Sports City Eagles), Sean Stevens (Saracens), Thinus Steyn (Exiles)

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War 2

Director: Ayan Mukerji

Stars: Hrithik Roshan, NTR, Kiara Advani, Ashutosh Rana

Rating: 2/5