With Covid-19 having disposed of the traditional fashion show format for the foreseeable future, designers have had to find new and innovative ways to replace it.
And as the ongoing digital Paris haute couture autumn / winter 2020 shows have proved, brands are demonstrating just how agile they really are. Here are five of the most inventive moments from the autumn / winter 2020 "shows" so far.
Iris van Herpen’s single dress
Proving that great minds think alike, both Maison Rabih Kayrouz and Iris van Herpen condensed their pandemic collections down to a single dress apiece. While Kayrouz's was designed in Beirut and produced in Paris (meaning that the creator has yet to see the finished piece in the flesh), van Herpen created its solitary dress in Amsterdam, home to the designer and her atelier. The resulting gown is called Transmotion.
Already an outlier when it comes to the standard thinking of what constitutes a dress, Van Herpen’s haute couture offering for autumn / winter 2020 is crafted from gossamer, light-as-air white plisse silk, caught under a hand-cut structure of black "branches".
Inspired by the work of Dutch artist M C Escher, the dress is deliberately symmetrical, meaning it has no up or down, back or front.
To model the piece, Games of Thrones actress Carice van Houten was brought aboard, becoming the latest star from the series to work with the designer, following in the footsteps of Gwendoline Christie. The irony is that van Herpen has never seen the TV show.
Balmain on a boat
Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing threw the rule book out of the window, and presented an assorted collection atop a barge on the River Seine.
As the highest measure of handwork, haute couture is normally hidden from view, making Rousteing's decision to put everything on display for all of Paris to see, a rare act of inclusiveness.
And if the crowds gawping from the bridges were anything to go by, that openness was appreciated. Standing on mirrored plinths, models wore dramatic gowns taken (briefly) out of the archives. From founder Pierre Balmain through to Erik Mortensen (1982-1990) and Oscar de la Renta (1993-2002), this was a trip down memory lane, creating context for the red carpet looks by Rousteing (all ready-to-wear, but in 2020, it seems, anything goes) and his couture offering of slick, precious separates in black and white.
Volume at Giambattista Valli
If other houses were about understated, almost restrained collections, then clearly Valli didn’t get the memo. Instead, it went in the other direction, presenting a collection of 18 astonishingly romantic gowns.
Worn by Joan Smalls, even by Valli standards the dresses were big (and no one does scale like Valli), in great frothy eruptions of tulle. Vast sugary pink layers trailed to the floor, while micro-mini dresses were furnished with enormous ruffles edging shoulders and appearing as capes. As the only house to even acknowledge the face mask, Valli’s were inevitably taken to a couture extreme, as sheer moons of silk framing the face.
As a collection, it is incredibly lovely to behold, and felt like a welcome moment of respite from the difficulties of the past few months. And like the uplifting Dolce & Gabbana show held a few days before, it offered a breath of much-needed fresh air.
Ralph & Russo's avatar
As every brand tackled the thorny issue of how to use models while socially distancing, the Australian/British house of Ralph & Russo sidestepped the issue entirely and instead conjured a virtual avatar for its presentation. The resulting "woman" is called Hauli.
With the digital sphere offering no restrictions on imagination, the house transported Hauli and her enviable wardrobe to the Seven Modern Wonders of the World. We see her at Petra in Jordan wearing a pale blue silk double satin gown, with glass bead and crystal embroidery, while for the Taj Mahal in India she dons a light pink column gown, featuring all-over multi-coloured crystal embellished fringing. Even if travel is restricted for the majority of us, with Ralph & Russo, seemingly no such limitations apply.
Le Mythe Dior
Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri opted for a fairy tale. Shot by Italian filmmaker Matteo Garrone, the brand's short film transports the audience into an enchanted forest, as two bell boys carry a wooden trunk – itself a replica of the house's famous 30 Avenue Montaigne address – filled with beautiful miniature couture gowns.
Mermaids and water nymphs stop their cavorting to reach for the precious pieces, as Daphne momentarily looks away from Apollo to make her choice. Only Narcissus is unmoved, preferring to stay with his own watery reflection.
Since its release, Dior has been criticised for a lack of diversity with its all-white casting, but as the house explained, inspiration came from the 15th-century paintings of Botticelli. While the model casting is a valid complaint, nothing can distract from the shimmering beauty of the actual collection, seen at the end of the film in full-sized glory. Grazia Chiuri is totally absent from the film; the brand's highly skilled seamstresses are put front and centre.
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Read more:
'A woman designing for women': all 30 looks from Chanel's latest haute couture collection
Lebanese designer Rabih Kayrouz presents a single dress for haute couture week
La dolce vita: a look at Dolce & Gabbana's latest couture collection
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What is a calorie?
A food calorie, or kilocalorie, is a measure of nutritional energy generated from what is consumed.
One calorie, is the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of 1 kilogram of water by 1°C.
A kilocalorie represents a 1,000 true calories of energy.
Energy density figures are often quoted as calories per serving, with one gram of fat in food containing nine calories, and a gram of protein or carbohydrate providing about four.
Alcohol contains about seven calories a gram.
Our legal consultants
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
Dr Afridi's warning signs of digital addiction
Spending an excessive amount of time on the phone.
Neglecting personal, social, or academic responsibilities.
Losing interest in other activities or hobbies that were once enjoyed.
Having withdrawal symptoms like feeling anxious, restless, or upset when the technology is not available.
Experiencing sleep disturbances or changes in sleep patterns.
What are the guidelines?
Under 18 months: Avoid screen time altogether, except for video chatting with family.
Aged 18-24 months: If screens are introduced, it should be high-quality content watched with a caregiver to help the child understand what they are seeing.
Aged 2-5 years: Limit to one-hour per day of high-quality programming, with co-viewing whenever possible.
Aged 6-12 years: Set consistent limits on screen time to ensure it does not interfere with sleep, physical activity, or social interactions.
Teenagers: Encourage a balanced approach – screens should not replace sleep, exercise, or face-to-face socialisation.
Source: American Paediatric Association
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Avatar: Fire and Ash
Director: James Cameron
Starring: Sam Worthington, Sigourney Weaver, Zoe Saldana
Rating: 4.5/5
Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026
1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
3. More tax audits
Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks.
4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime
Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.
5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.
6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes.
7. Limited time periods for audits
Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion.
8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer
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5 of the most-popular Airbnb locations in Dubai
Bobby Grudziecki, chief operating officer of Frank Porter, identifies the five most popular areas in Dubai for those looking to make the most out of their properties and the rates owners can secure:
• Dubai Marina
The Marina and Jumeirah Beach Residence are popular locations, says Mr Grudziecki, due to their closeness to the beach, restaurants and hotels.
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh482 to Dh739
Two bedroom: Dh627 to Dh960
Three bedroom: Dh721 to Dh1,104
• Downtown
Within walking distance of the Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and the famous fountains, this location combines business and leisure. “Sure it’s for tourists,” says Mr Grudziecki. “Though Downtown [still caters to business people] because it’s close to Dubai International Financial Centre."
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh497 to Dh772
Two bedroom: Dh646 to Dh1,003
Three bedroom: Dh743 to Dh1,154
• City Walk
The rising star of the Dubai property market, this area is lined with pristine sidewalks, boutiques and cafes and close to the new entertainment venue Coca Cola Arena. “Downtown and Marina are pretty much the same prices,” Mr Grudziecki says, “but City Walk is higher.”
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh524 to Dh809
Two bedroom: Dh682 to Dh1,052
Three bedroom: Dh784 to Dh1,210
• Jumeirah Lake Towers
Dubai Marina’s little brother JLT resides on the other side of Sheikh Zayed road but is still close enough to beachside outlets and attractions. The big selling point for Airbnb renters, however, is that “it’s cheaper than Dubai Marina”, Mr Grudziecki says.
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh422 to Dh629
Two bedroom: Dh549 to Dh818
Three bedroom: Dh631 to Dh941
• Palm Jumeirah
Palm Jumeirah's proximity to luxury resorts is attractive, especially for big families, says Mr Grudziecki, as Airbnb renters can secure competitive rates on one of the world’s most famous tourist destinations.
Frank Porter’s average Airbnb rent:
One bedroom: Dh503 to Dh770
Two bedroom: Dh654 to Dh1,002
Three bedroom: Dh752 to Dh1,152
Name: Peter Dicce
Title: Assistant dean of students and director of athletics
Favourite sport: soccer
Favourite team: Bayern Munich
Favourite player: Franz Beckenbauer
Favourite activity in Abu Dhabi: scuba diving in the Northern Emirates
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 261hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 405Nm at 1,750-3,500rpm
Transmission: 9-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh117,059
What the law says
Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.
“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.
“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”
If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.
The specs
Engine: 77.4kW all-wheel-drive dual motor
Power: 320bhp
Torque: 605Nm
Transmission: Single-speed automatic
Price: From Dh219,000
On sale: Now
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