Patek Philippe Cubitus: All hands point to new generation of watch collectors with landmark range

Storied brand hasn't released a different line since 1997 – until now

The Cubitus Collection is defined by octagonal cases, offering a modern aesthetic Photo: Patek Philippe

In the world of watchmaking, few names carry the prestige and storied legacy of Patek Philippe. Its most famous advertisement campaign features the line: “You never really own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation.” That next generation seems to be who the watchmaker is targeting with the Cubitus collection, its first new model range since the Aquanaut in 1997.

The Cubitus collection signals a bold departure from the rounded case designs that have been the hallmark of Patek Philippe’s most sought-after watches, such as the Nautilus and the Calatrava. It is defined by a striking octagonal case, offering a modern aesthetic.

But this launch is more than just a new case shape; it is a statement about the future direction of Patek Philippe, an acceptance that innovation is part of staying on top of the market.

The Cubitus Collection is a bold and angular design. The octagonal case is reminiscent of the sporty elegance popularised by Patek’s Nautilus, introduced in 1976, but with sharper lines and a more modern sensibility. The case comes in several materials, including two-tone steel and rose gold, stainless steel and platinum.

Patek Philippe's Cubitus collection is the first new model range since the Aquanaut in 1997. Photo: Patek Philippe

The brushed and polished surfaces on the Cubitus play with light in a way that emphasises the clean, architectural lines of the case. The design team at Patek clearly wanted to create something that would stand out on the wrist without feeling overly flashy, a delicate balance achieved with this collection.

The dials are another area where the Cubitus shines. The collection offers options in deep green and blue, each with a subtle texture that adds depth to the overall design. The green dial is a standout, tapping into the growing trend for coloured dials.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Patek Philippe without exceptional mechanical innovation. At the heart of these watches are some of Patek’s most advanced automatic movements. The simpler models feature the Caliber 26-330 S C, a highly accurate movement that powers the time and date functions. With a power reserve of up to 45 hours and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it’s a reliable workhorse designed to keep time with remarkable consistency.

At the heart of these watches are some of Patek’s most advanced automatic movements. Photo: Patek Philippe

For those who want something more complicated, the collection also includes a platinum model with moon phase and big date functions. The display manages to not feel too busy.

This launch is particularly significant because it comes at a time when Patek Philippe is facing increased competition in the luxury sports watch category. Brands such as Audemars Piguet, with its Royal Oak, and Rolex, with its steel sports models, have dominated this segment in recent years. The Cubitus is Patek’s answer to this challenge, a watch that combines the brand’s legacy of craftsmanship with a design that feels relevant to today’s collectors.

The choice to launch this collection in both stainless steel and two-tone rose gold speaks to Patek’s desire to appeal to a younger, more style-conscious audience. The stainless-steel models, in particular, are likely to attract collectors who appreciate the durability and versatility of steel, but who also want something that feels distinct.

Like the Aquanaut before it, the Cubitus could very well define the next era of Patek Philippe. Photo: Patek Philippe

This is a collection that has the potential to become a modern classic. Like the Aquanaut before it, the Cubitus could very well define the next era of Patek Philippe. It’s a watch that blends past and future, tradition and innovation, in a way that few brands can achieve. Whether you’re a long-time collector or someone looking to invest in their first luxury watch, the Cubitus offers an opportunity to own a piece of Patek Philippe’s next chapter.

The move to launch the collection is bold but feels right, even essential. In a market that’s becoming increasingly saturated with steel sports watches, Patek has managed to create something that feels fresh, exciting and future-facing.