Is it a bracelet? Is it a watch? Horologists and jewellery enthusiasts alike can get a hold of rare timepieces via an online auction being held on June 13 by watch specialist Antiquorum in Hong Kong.
Comprising 276 lots, the sale will feature a variety of watches from the late 1700s, as well as some contemporary pieces.
Of these, at least two timepieces qualify as "secret jewellery" – a category that has been explored by several high-jewellery brands and refers to a piece that hides something within itself – from Chanel’s concealed Camelia watch that can be worn as a necklace or bracelet; to Dior bracelets that have a slide-away gemstone that conceal a ticking watch-face.
This month's auction offers an extremely rare Audemars Piguet high-jewellery bracelet watch (lot 257). The concealed dial is pavé-set with 300 brilliant-cut white diamonds, while the bracelet itself is in 18k white gold, with a total of 5,326 brilliant-cut white diamonds (51.66 carats) and 56 onyx panels. Made in 2015, it is expected to sell for between $142,000 and $256,000.
Elsewhere, lot 139 is an extremely fine and rare manual winding wristwatch by Cartier. Created between 2010 and 2015, Le Cirque Animalier Panther was limited to only 100 pieces. It comes with a skeletonised panther's head set with emerald eyes. This opens to reveal an onyx dial – also shaped like a panther’s head – with a white diamond bezel. Made in 18k white gold, it is expected to sell for between $80,000 and $104,000.
Timeless pieces
The auction will also offer a number of centuries-old watches.
Notable lots include a jewellery casket by Jorg Gray (lot 90) – a rectangular key-wound box made in 1755 and crafted from yellow gold and galuchat (stingray skin). The timepiece is mounted on a ruby-set bezel, while the interior is decorated with Chinese silk and woven with imperial dragon motifs. It has an estimate of between $48,600 and $62,000.
Another antique item is a "necessaire" made by John Pyke in the 1750s (lot 91). Made with 22k gold and mounted bloodstone, it contains a watch, gold-handled scissors, a pencil, spoon and a combination file and tweezers. It is engraved with repousse work, a white enamel dial and blue steel Beetle & Poker hands. It has an estimate of $44,700 to $64,000.
Lot 88 dates from 1800, and is a decorative Neoclassical pocket watch, in 20k yellow gold, enamel, pearls and diamonds. Made by John Baker, it has been estimated to sell for between $12,800 and $19,200.
Lot 150 is a Rolex Milgauss from 1958. With a honeycomb tropical dial and red triangle insert, this anti-magnetic watch also has a big logo clasp. It is also estimated to sell between $90,000 and $128,000.
Lot 149, meanwhile is a Rolex from circa 1974. An Oyster cosmograph, it is a rare find, and although it is made in stainless steel, it is estimated to sell for between $87,000 and $136,000.
Lot 142 is an FP Journe 18k pink gold wristwatch. Self-winding, it has a perpetual calendar, leap year, power reserve indication and instantaneous jumping calendar. Although it was made fairly recently, in 2020, it carries an estimate of $90,000 to $128,000.
Another item expected to sell for a sizable figure is a Richard Mille Felipe Massa Flyback chronograph (lot 144). It dates from the 2010s, and is made from 18K white gold and titanium with a skeleton dial, a large date indicator at 12 and a month indicator between 4 and 5. This rare, self-winding watch has been listed at between $142,000 and $282,000.
Established in Geneva in 1974, Antiquorum specialises in auctions of modern and vintage timepieces.
