Who was Karl Lagerfeld, the designer who inspired the Met Gala 2023 theme?


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Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty is, arguably, the most fitting theme of the fashion-forward Met Gala yet, given the designer it pays ode to was a veritable fashion giant.

Who was Karl Lagerfeld?

The German designer was, in a word, prolific. His contribution to the fashion industry over five decades is difficult to overstate, as he created seasonal ready-to-wear, cruise and pre-fall collections for no fewer than three brands — Chanel, Fendi and his eponymous label — year on year, as well as two haute couture collections for Chanel each year.

A keen photographer, he also famously shot all of the marketing and media campaigns for each of the brands.

Lagerfeld died in Paris in February 2019 at the age of 85.

Karl Lagerfeld: Career highlights and controversies

Lagerfeld joined Chanel in the 1980s and created as many as eight annual collections for the house until his death in 2019. Photo: Getty Images
Lagerfeld joined Chanel in the 1980s and created as many as eight annual collections for the house until his death in 2019. Photo: Getty Images

Lagerfeld joined the house of Fendi in 1965 and never left, creating collections that appealed to a younger audience while losing none of the technical know-how that the house is famed for. But it is for his work at Chanel, which he joined in 1983, that Lagerfeld will be remembered.

It was his drive, vision and unflagging work ethic that propelled Chanel from a noted but stuffy brand beloved by the middle-aged to a global fashion powerhouse, bulding on Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel's sense of androgynous chic, rethinking her costume jewellery and famous tweeds for a new audience.

While Lagerfeld was known for collecting muses — from Cara Delevingne to Kristen Stewart — he was also notoriously exacting and outspoken, yet elusive.

Lagerfeld photographs Kristen Stewart for a Chanel campaign. Photo: Chanel
Lagerfeld photographs Kristen Stewart for a Chanel campaign. Photo: Chanel

Sporting dark suits, white, pony-tailed hair and tinted sunglasses in his later years that made him instantly recognisable, an irreverent wit was also part of a carefully crafted persona. "I am like a caricature of myself, and I like that," reads one quote attributed to him, and often recycled to convey the person he liked to play. "It is like a mask. And for me the Carnival of Venice lasts all year long."

That is not to say Lagerfeld did not court controversy. In 2012, Lagerfeld insulted singer Adele for not being a size 10 (he apparently apologised by sending her armfuls of Chanel bags), while in 2017, Meryl Streep accused the designer of spoiling her Oscars night by falsely accusing her of being paid to wear a gown on the red carpet.

He was also known to be superstitious, and never allowed anyone to wear something from his collections before they were shown on the runway.

Lagerfeld also had a tendency to be fluid about his past and his year of birth, despite the baptism register in Hamburg confirming his arrival into this world on September 10, 1933.

We need to talk about Choupette

A number of celebrities at the Met Gala came dressed as Lagerfeld's pampered feline Choupette.

The Birman cat was originally owned by model Baptiste Giabiconi, but became Lagerfeld's when he fell in love after he agreed to cat-sit her. Choupette soon became one of the most famous cats in the world, appearing on the cover of V Magazine with Laetitia Casta in 2012; becoming the subject of a book called Choupette: The Private Life of a High Flying Fashion Cat in 2014; and landing a pet furniture collection after Lagerfeld's death, in 2020.

Scroll through the gallery below to see how celebrities paid homage to Lagerfeld at the Met Gala

BULKWHIZ PROFILE

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1. Black holes are objects whose gravity is so strong not even light can escape their pull

2. They can be created when massive stars collapse under their own weight

3. Large black holes can also be formed when smaller ones collide and merge

4. The biggest black holes lurk at the centre of many galaxies, including our own

5. Astronomers believe that when the universe was very young, black holes affected how galaxies formed

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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

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“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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Updated: May 02, 2023, 8:34 AM